my 1970 340 swinger just shuts off i have cleaned all conections on bulkhead and changed voltage regulator and it still happens the tack wont move when trying to restart it does start after moving wires and a cool down then the tack starts to pulse and it runs for a while i am thinking changing the coil next any sugestions
electrical power loss
- Thread starter T Mc
- Start date
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Every once in a great while I run across a car that does that and it ends up being the distributor plug disconnecting when it gets hot.
Heat expansion causing it to loose the connection.
Easy to check (just crimp the female terminals on each side a little)
Then I'd be looking at the reluctor gap in the distributor, and then from there I'd use the Mopar ignition box trouble shooting procedure to check if the box is capable.
Of course you would have to do it right after it quit.
Heat expansion causing it to loose the connection.
Easy to check (just crimp the female terminals on each side a little)
Then I'd be looking at the reluctor gap in the distributor, and then from there I'd use the Mopar ignition box trouble shooting procedure to check if the box is capable.
Of course you would have to do it right after it quit.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
^^That is absolutely on the list. Make some tests. Get it warm and running
"Wiggle" the ignition connectors........distributor, ECU (unscrew it) ballast. Wiggle the bulkhead connector, too
Measure running coil voltage. With battery up warm and normal, battery should be close to 14. At that voltage the coil + will vary, but should be somewhere around 10-11 volts
Suspect the tach or tach wire, so unhook them for awhile.
Make CERTAIN the ECU is grounded. Remove it clean around the bolt holes, and remount, using star washers
Inspect the interior of the cap and the rotor. Inspect the pickup / reluctor, for strike damage, rust, debri, and wiggle the shaft.
Get a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler. O'Reallys did have these. Set the reluctor gap and check shaft play.
ESPECIALLY "work" the distributor connector in/ out several times to scrub the terminals and feel for tight.
"Wiggle" the ignition connectors........distributor, ECU (unscrew it) ballast. Wiggle the bulkhead connector, too
Measure running coil voltage. With battery up warm and normal, battery should be close to 14. At that voltage the coil + will vary, but should be somewhere around 10-11 volts
Suspect the tach or tach wire, so unhook them for awhile.
Make CERTAIN the ECU is grounded. Remove it clean around the bolt holes, and remount, using star washers
Inspect the interior of the cap and the rotor. Inspect the pickup / reluctor, for strike damage, rust, debri, and wiggle the shaft.
Get a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler. O'Reallys did have these. Set the reluctor gap and check shaft play.
ESPECIALLY "work" the distributor connector in/ out several times to scrub the terminals and feel for tight.
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