Electronic ignition help

[sirmopar]

ok 400 with mopar electronic ignition conversion, My question is , does the wire that goes to the start side of the resistor , come from the same ignition wire that feeds the starting solenoid ?

I think this is causing my starter to stay engaged. All questions comments welcome . Thanks guys

 

[67Dart273]

Not unless someone mis--wired it. The brown bypass circuit is a dedicated, separate set of contacts in the ignition switch. It only goes one place---from the switch, through the bulkhead, to the coil+ side of the ballast

The yellow start wire is the same as above. It too, has a dedicated separate switch inside the "can" that make s up the ignition switch. It too only goes one place --from the ignition switch, through the bulkhead, to one of the push-on terminals of the start relay.

 

[sirmopar]

67dart273 , I was hoping you would chime in . You seem to really know your stuff when it comes to this . I am almost sure that none of this wiring harness is original. it looks so hacked up. I found one wire that is hot with key in "run"(its red) and another that is hot when key is in "start"(blue).

Is that all i need to wire it correctly ?

 

[67Dart273]

OK, here's what comes and goes from the ignition switch, regardless of color.

Battery feed in which should be a big wire, this comes (original) from the "in harness splice" in the black alternator wire to the BAT terminal of the switch.

"OUT" of the switch we have:

=====================================

ACCESSORY, another big wire, feeds from the switch to the switched buss in the fuse panel, so it's hot in either "run" or accessory.

The following are also separate switches "in the can" that makes up the IGN switch. NONE of these circuits are interconnected in the switch
======================================
IGNITION RUN, traditionally blue, but not in some later models, called "IGN 1" by Mopar. Hot ONLY in run, and NOT in start, IE when starting, the brown bypass circuit is the only source of ignition power

this feeds the instrument cluster power, and branches off out through the bulkhead and (depending on year) feeds

ignition system, IE switch side of the ballast,

regulator power

on 70/ later, feeds one field connector of the alternator

electric choke if used

idle solenoid if used (as on 6-pak/ TA cars)

dist. retard solenoid on some cars

Smog doo dads on a few cars

=====================================

Brown ballast bypass circuit, or "IGN 2" feeds from the switch, out through the bulkhead, to the coil+ side of the ballast. This is the ONLY source of ignition power in start

=======================================

Yellow start wire, feeds out of the switch, through the bulkhead, and to the start relay, one of the "push on" terminals. The second push on (if used) grounds through the neutral safety switch on autos or cars with clutch safety switches.

On cars with the dreaded seat belt interlock, this wire is in series with the "reset" switch in the box under the hood.

You might be well to do some serious checking if it's been hacked

Read this:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

and check the condition of your bulkhead connector and ammeter terminals.

What do you have for wiring diagrams/ shop manual?