electronic ignition problem (Baffled)

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ryco6003

ryco6003

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just installed an electrion ignition system in my 69' dart. slant six.

car runs great! starts great when engine is warm. ( hit key , fires right up)

when it's cold ......... way hard to start!!!!

question: why would the system care about the temp?
 
Ignition does not know how cold the temperature is.

However, the engine does.....check your choke.
 
with the old point dizzy it would start right up cold or warm.

even verified by putting the old 1 back in.

not a choke issue.

have a new: ballast,starter,battery,tried a blaster coil,
all made no diff. on cold starts

any other ideas?
 
Yes

but again: when it's warm ...... easy fire up.

when cold very hard to fire up.
 
I would check appearance of the spark between the two systems. Any chance you have a rotor/ cap problem that is killing the spark?

WHAT IS the actual voltage getting to the high side of the resistor? Sure you have the correct resistor / coil combo?

How about the box? On Chrysler ECU's the ECU has a "condenser" in the box which replaces the electrical function of the one in a points distributor. If that cap is weak, or something else wrong "with the box" the spark will be poor.
 
yes .... I have an elec volt reg.
when i swithched back to the points dizzy, I experimented with being 1 tooth off.
but every time i put the elec dizzy in I TDC the car even check for spark buy moving the dizzy before starting it again.
as far as the cap or rotor being bad...... I have not changed them but, they work fine with the points dizzy in.

think theres that more diff in the draw?
 
Did you check for spark when it is cold? I know you checked for power to the coil, make sure you have 12 volts bypassing the resistor on start up.
 
I played with the 1 tooth theory with thw old dizzy. I always TDC#1. even go so far as to check spark the the dizzy before starting again.
ballast resistor id .05 resist, coil is the old stock coil but even with that i tried a blaster coil .... still no diff. electronic volt reg is in.

as far as the cap and rotor go ..... maybe the problem , they work fine with the points dizzy in it. can there be that much diff?
 
how much voltage does the ECU need to tell the coil to light the candles?

just checked and in start mode ... i'm getting 11.5 volts + or _
 
air gap is 8 thousands.

checked resistance in dizzy.
pick up and reluctor seem fine.

even with all this......... what diff. would cold starts make?

when it's warm if i look at it wrong it fires right up.

only cold start is the problem.
 
Are you using an msd box? If so, try taking the ballast out of the equation. Connect both ends together. That is what I had to do to get mine to start. Check what the other people are saying on this thread also. If someone thinks I am wrong please speak up. My feelings won't be hurt.
 
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