Electronic ignition upgrade.

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But are they? Not in his case I don't believe. As you said overkill. A points ignition in good shape with a good hotcoil and loose curve will do everything HEI will do with the exception of replacing the points "every now and again". I've done it. So have countless others. WHAT was on drag strips before electronic ignition? Yeah. Thought so. lol
This is what it boils down to, doesn't it. If a campfire is built properly I can light it with flint and steel. Using one of those extended butane lighters won't hurt but unless there are some adjustments to the build, its not going to help get the big logs burning quicker, and the end result will be the same anyway. The butane lighter can help if the build is missing some or has some poorly placed tinder and kindling.
 
This is what it boils down to, doesn't it. If a campfire is built properly I can light it with flint and steel. Using one of those extended butane lighters won't hurt but unless there are some adjustments to the build, its not going to help get the big logs burning quicker, and the end result will be the same anyway. The butane lighter can help if the build is missing some or has some poorly placed tinder and kindling.
That's an excellent comparison. It still won't sink in. .......and that's cool. Bein different is what makes the world go around. Different doesn't mean better. lol
 
Good to read real stories of some ECU's. I bought a couple of LX101 from RockAuto for $10 each probably 3 years ago? I was told(on here) they are/were junk lol.
Now there's used LX101 on here for $80 :realcrazy:
Yep, I bought a number of the LX101s (NOT the LX101T) a few years back, they supposedly don't have the rev limiter in them- not that any of my stuff gets wound out that high anymore anyways. But they've been rock-solid reliable without so much as a hiccup. They beat the heck out of all the knockoff orange boxes I've replaced. Can't say how they compare to the HiRev boxes, but that's sort of an apples-to-oranges thing anyway.
 
I believe I have what I’m doing figured out. I’ll be getting fbo module and coil. Then I’ll either buy the plate and spring kit to setup my distributor or buy the kit with a new Pertronix distributor.
Does anyone know if it better to get that Pertronix distributor or stay with the mopar and curve it?
 
Yep, I bought a number of the LX101s (NOT the LX101T) a few years back, they supposedly don't have the rev limiter in them- not that any of my stuff gets wound out that high anymore anyways. But they've been rock-solid reliable without so much as a hiccup. They beat the heck out of all the knockoff orange boxes I've replaced. Can't say how they compare to the HiRev boxes, but that's sort of an apples-to-oranges thing anyway.
It's been said the Hi Rev 7500s are junk, but I've been running mine now for over a year without issue. Plus they are advertised as being made in the USA.
 
I believe I have what I’m doing figured out. I’ll be getting fbo module and coil. Then I’ll either buy the plate and spring kit to setup my distributor or buy the kit with a new Pertronix distributor.
Does anyone know if it better to get that Pertronix distributor or stay with the mopar and curve it?
Just a word of advice about the limiter plate. Watch that it does not cause the advance mechanism to stick. Some people have reported that.
 
It's been said the Hi Rev 7500s are junk, but I've been running mine now for over a year without issue. Plus they are advertised as being made in the USA.
:thumbsup: Yeah, if you're on here long enough someone will say Hemis are junk, too. I take everything with a grain of salt, and tend to pay more attention to comments when egos aren't getting in the way. You know the drill!
 
I’ll be getting fbo module and coil.

buy the kit with a new Pertronix distributor.
Does anyone know if it better to get that Pertronix distributor or stay with the mopar and curve it?
These has been answered, and you agreed. So now why are you asking again?
All I can guess is you don't understand how the the different advances work and what you can and can't do with them.
If this isn't using forced induction or spinning to 8000 RPM, the only thing I have to add is to get the advance curve dialed in for your motor. This is one of the biggest things people overlook, and a bad advance curve leaves a lot of power on the table.

Get the distributor in shape with a good curve and send it.

10.6:1 isn’t crap for the Chrysler ignition.

Then why on earth change it?

And there's a reason I put "have the advance curve dialed in" in bold. The right advance curve is a lot more important than the HEI vs Mopar ignition debate.

Correct that’s why if I buy from fbo or from dui I plan to get the kit with a distributor and they dial them in.

timing and advance curve are paramount to a good running engine.

1. Using a timing light and tach, measure and document the mechanical timing.
2. Disconnect the OSAC. All that involves is connecting the distributor vacuum advance directly to the timed port on the carb. Go drive it and it ought to be a hell of a lot more responsive to throttle. Now you have a baseline, Go to the drag strip and start getting numbers.

Since you want to buy an answer, then either buy the FBO system and do whatever Don says, or buy the HiRev and MP/DC replica distributor from Rick and do what MP says in the old MP/DC directions (which you can find in a search here).

Eventually I learned the Chrysler team was a lot smarter and knowledgable than most enthusiasts...I noticed class racers tended to pay attention to factory info and put it to use

By your own admission the Chrysler distributor is working pretty well.
There's a clue that its at least in the ballpark and so is a pretty good baseline.
 
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Can you point me to those two books, please?

Charles Fayette Taylor wrote a 2 volume set on combustion engine theory. I forget the exact title but if you search his name you’ll find it.

I forget O’berts first name and don’t you know I can’t think of the name of his book. I’ll get you that when I get home.
 
"Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution" by Edward F Obert

You can also read the various snips from Obert, Larew, and Taylor that Tuner and Shrinker in particular have posted and explained on a few forums, which some of us here have referenced in the past.







Of course some people think that those old books are outdated because engines now work differently. The funny thing is those guys had to make engines work well with the mighty spark of points ignitions, and couldn't try to hide timing or combustion conditions with a flamethrower ignitions. :)
 
I believe I have what I’m doing figured out. I’ll be getting fbo module and coil. Then I’ll either buy the plate and spring kit to setup my distributor or buy the kit with a new Pertronix distributor.
Does anyone know if it better to get that Pertronix distributor or stay with the mopar and curve it?

Me personally, I'd stay with the Mopar distributer.

This is the one I bought from Rick Ehrenberg on Ebay.

Works great , no issues, excellent to do business with, fast shipping.

My distributer cap broke in shipping, Rick replaced it free of charge.


Mopar Electronic Ignition Distributor Smallblock Plym Dodge 318/340/360 NOS Cap | eBay
 
"Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution" by Edward F Obert

You can also read the various snips from Obert, Larew, and Taylor that Tuner and Shrinker in particular have posted and explained on a few forums, which some of us here have referenced in the past.







Of course some people think that those old books are outdated because engines now work differently. The funny thing is those guys had to make engines work well with the mighty spark of points ignitions, and couldn't try to hide timing or combustion conditions with a flamethrower ignitions. :)
The ones that get me are the ones who call the MP manual dated and obsolete. Those recipes in that book worked 50 plus years ago and they still work today, just as printed. They'll work 100 years from now if we still have internal combustion engines. 10 seconds is 10 seconds, regardless of how you get there, right?
 
"Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution" by Edward F Obert

You can also read the various snips from Obert, Larew, and Taylor that Tuner and Shrinker in particular have posted and explained on a few forums, which some of us here have referenced in the past.

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Of course some people think that those old books are outdated because engines now work differently. The funny thing is those guys had to make engines work well with the mighty spark of points ignitions, and couldn't try to hide timing or combustion conditions with a flamethrower ignitions. :)
Thank You. I forgot about the Larew book.
 
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