I tried this last summer with no success. It's a 170 65 Valiant. I was changing the RH motor mount and didn't know the condition of the oil pump or the actual mileage so I wanted to go ahead and change it. Me and a friend battled with it for a couple days each hours a day. I tried doing it exactly by the 65 Plymouth service guide even cutting a piece of 2x4 just like specified. Now I really need to do it because I need to actually move this car so I may as well just wrap it up under the hood. I got my new engine harness. The only thing left under the hood is I'm waiting on that RH motor mount and I have to figure out to get the oil pump out and new back in. We gave up last time and said we'll just pull the engine out but that's actually a lot more trouble that it's worth since the car is so far away from my house and all my lifting equipment is here and very heavy. If I could just change out this pump I should be able to quickly bolt back all the accessories on and start this car up and move it out of the way. I'm worried because it's parked under an old oak tree and a lot have been falling lately because of the storms. There pretty much isn't a safe place in the yard so I want to get it going and out of there. A 10ft branch fell right beside it the other day after a storm, it probably weighed about 25lbs. That's really all there is to do in order to start it up and move it. Swap out the oil pump, put the motor mount in, and change the plugs and wires. I was just wondering if anyone has come up with any tricks lately in order to get it out more easily.
Emergency: Trying to change oil pump on 65 again
- Thread starter wh23g3g
- Start date
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805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
ok well i missed the orignal post on what vehical
i have a68 dart
it took me three days of trial and error to get it out...
eventually i found buy loosening the driver mount(not undo), you want it to pivot on that mount
and removing the passengers mount i was able to lift the motor up to remove the pump...
but it still was very close to not coming out...
i have a68 dart
it took me three days of trial and error to get it out...
eventually i found buy loosening the driver mount(not undo), you want it to pivot on that mount
and removing the passengers mount i was able to lift the motor up to remove the pump...
but it still was very close to not coming out...
I think that's how we have it. I was going to go mess with it today but it started to rain and it's outside. I know we have the pass. motor mount totally off because I'm waiting for it in the mail. The driver's side has been replaced with a new one so there's probably not as much leeway now because it's a new firm rubber mount. I can my pump all the way until you can't see the gear anymore through the distributor hole and then I can't pull it all the way out. If I ever do get it out I can only imagine how difficult it is going to be to get it back in. I even removed the outer cover and the outer rotor like it said in the Plymouth manual. I placed the 2x4 exactly like they had it in the picture and tried to pry in the exact place, but I couldn't tell where they were prying at because it was a bad illustration. I just tried everything I could to duplicate the factory procedure. I'll give some more tries when I can get over there.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
where are you located? it just rained here to... you in AZ?
No I'm in north GA. Lately there's been a lot of bad thunderstorms. That's what happens here with all the humidity. But lately it's been high winds that's taking down trees. This 65 I have is right under a hundred year old oak tree. It's on a lot at my father's house that's all wooded. There is no garage or anything to really protect it. But I need to get it up and running so I can at least move it out of the way of this tree. All I have to do is change the pump, put the distributor back on, and alternator and it should be able to start up and move. There's a pretty good storm today I'm about to go check it now real quick.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
well you know what you could do...
just slide the pump out a little, clean the gasket out, silicon the crap out of it and let it sit for 2 days
then move it so you can work on it
Actually we just got it out about an hour ago. Raised it up a little more and used a long 2x4 and tilted the engine over. May have scraped the firewall paint a little but who cares. It's not show under the hood anyway. A little tan touch up paint on the firewall and it will be good. It's originally a tan car which I plan to repaint it as but I just found some rattle can spray that looks strikingly similar to the fresh paint I found under the weatherstrip. Anyway it beats the brushed on primer look that the previous owner applied. I've got the pump out and it actually looks fairly new. It's not painted red like the rest of the engine so I know it's been replaced. It had good pressure on it when I had the motor running. So I might just clean it and rebuild it if I can't afford the $80 for a new one. I will debate that after I price out all the options.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
i would just clean and re-seal... the older pumps have a better drive gear on them than the new ones...
the new ones tend to shear off in less than 1K miles
the block gasket and cover o ring can be had @ any parts store for cheap
the new ones tend to shear off in less than 1K miles
the block gasket and cover o ring can be had @ any parts store for cheap
Yeah I don't really see how this thing could even fail unless the gear sheared off. There's not really anything to break unless it just totally falls apart. My oil pump died on my Ford Ranger in the winter time in Kentucky while on a trip, but no one could ever tell me why it died.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
it was circled on the hood
That old 2.5L in my Ranger that died because of the oil pump lasted 228,000 miles. I was disappointed I was hoping it would make it to at least 300,000 without dying. I've heard the realiability of the Slant Sixes to be great too, hopefully I can put everything back on and run it for a few years before it dies. It's going to be a spare car only for fall driving unless I find an underdash A/C but an original one. I keep out on EBAY for them but never win. Hoping I can score one in the salvage yard one day. Then I would be able to drive this Valiant anytime.
Ok before I mess up the head on the oil pressure relief valve what should I use to remove it? This actually appears to be an original oil pump with the Chrysler #s still on it. Everything looks good. The Melling rotor and seal kit is no longer available and the pumps are expensive. This one looks in working order so I'm just going to reseal it. I've located the oil pump to block gasket, the oil pump cover o-ring and the oil pressure relief valve gasket. I just hope the spring is fine. But I need to get off the bolt first. It's got a totally square head. What do I need to use to get it off?
jhdeval
Well-Known Member
wh23g3g I saw your comment about the air conditioning. I am also down here in Georgia and that the same thing. So I asked about it and it turns out it is a whole hell of a lot harder to add it after the fact. If you search the forum you will find a few posts about it.
There are several things you will need. The dash controls, the under dash unit and the engine bay condenser and various small parts. I would love to have air in 65 barracuda but the work to do it is very daunting.
I did find an alternative though.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Portable-12V-Air-Conditioner---Cheap-and-easy!/
The only thing I would change with his instructions is I would use a piece of foam insulation over the ice. I think it would allow the ice to stay longer.
There are several things you will need. The dash controls, the under dash unit and the engine bay condenser and various small parts. I would love to have air in 65 barracuda but the work to do it is very daunting.
I did find an alternative though.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Portable-12V-Air-Conditioner---Cheap-and-easy!/
The only thing I would change with his instructions is I would use a piece of foam insulation over the ice. I think it would allow the ice to stay longer.
I'm not even worried about how difficult it will be. I know it can be done. I asked a guy at a local car show here that had a 64 Valiant 2-door with a 170 and he added aftermarket a/c to his with a newer style Sanden compressor and he said it wasn't a big deal. I've got shops I can get to do the wiring which is the hardest part to me but on this basic of an electrical system I could probably figure it out. If I can find a vintage unit I can restore it. All I would have to get is the drier, condenser, brackets, and compressor. I can find a universal a/c condenser, I could probably use the factory drier, and hopefully I can get away with using some Slant Six a/c brackets off of a later Slant Six equipped a/c car. I've got access to a reman. RV-2 and a new clutch. I restored a aftermarket a/c unit on my 76 Datsun B210 a couple years ago that worked perfect once done. It didn't even have screw on a/c fittings. It used the hose clamps with the barbs on it. I thought that was kinda strange until I saw every B210 with aftermarket a/c using those kinda clamps. It worked great but we sold it. It was just a fix and sell deal. This Plymouth I can track the parts down for next summer and I was just going to use it in the fall if I can finish it up quick enough. By the time summer comes around next year maybe I'll have the a/c goin. I had a chance to score a complete factory a/c system out of a 65 Valiant in the junkyard but it was too much work for the time I had. You can do it, I'm sure it's not as bad as you think.
Finally I got the pump on my 65 Valiant's 170. It was still a pain. I had cleaned up the pump and put new gaskets and seals. I had to reuse the cover seal because the new o-ring kept falling as I was trying to bolt the cover on. I hope it doesn't leak, it was still pliable and had no cracks or tears. The pump passed all Chrysler inspection measurements so I cleaned it and put it back on. It was so hard to get on it doesn't even look clean anymore from all the mud and grease that got on it after my gloves tore. It's on though and I put a new filter on. I primed it a little before putting it on but I'm sure it probably all drained out by the time the fighting was done. I also got my brand new motor mounts installed and the motor is bolted back to the frame. Now it's just the accessories and then I will try and fire it up. Hopefully no more than a few weeks.
dustermaniac
Senior Member
Good news! I just changef my pump and shaft yesterday, mine was seized.
Pull the engine. Just get everything unhooked and ready. Rent an engine hoist. Pull the engine. Fix engine. Put engine back in. You're trying to make it a lot harder than it is by not doing it the easiest way. I don't give a damn what that book says. Removing the engine is the best and easiest way. Good God. You've wasted how much time trying to do it in the car? I'm in Jones County in middle Georgia. PM me if you want and I will help you however I can.
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