SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
I will be starting to put my motor together and I would like to know were you guys buy your bolts. Like for the timing cover, the intake and so on. Also will need the engine to trans bolts
Engine bolts
- Thread starter SRT_DSTRHOLC
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JR
Pissed off senior member.
Stuff like water pump, tranny, oil pan you can rob from a wrecking yard motor and clean up with a wire wheel on the bench grinder. Main caps, heads, and rods I get new from from ARP for any motor rebuild. Intake and valve cover bolts you can get from just about any parts store for pretty cheap.
340sixpack
Well-Known Member
Bought the ARP set from Mancini.Had everthing top to bottom and they were
stainless so they stay looking nice.Trans to engine i just got from the parts
store.
stainless so they stay looking nice.Trans to engine i just got from the parts
store.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I bought a set of stainless bolts from Summit for mine but you can go alot cheaper and just go to the local farm supply and buy them in bulk for alot less.
GoodysGotaCuda
Mr. Goody
I'd highly recommend going with the ARP bolt kit. Pan, intake, valve covers, etc, etc all in one. Bit pricey, but since I built my engine, I've found myself buying a small arp set here and there..nearly as the cost of the entire kit by now.
Oh, and get 6point heads. They are nice, high quality bolts.
Oh, and get 6point heads. They are nice, high quality bolts.
http://www.alloyboltz.com/catalog/index.php
These people can supply you with anything you want in ARP or stainless. Lower priced than the big box guys, cheaper faster shipping also.
These people can supply you with anything you want in ARP or stainless. Lower priced than the big box guys, cheaper faster shipping also.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I started a bolt bucket about 25 years ago.there is stuff in there that i never thought i,d use,but they are coming in very handy(springs,clips,chrome interior screws,fender bolts etc.etc.}all made with real steel.to replace some of this would be a small fortune.
ramcharger
Dismember
Go ARP if you plan on keeping this engine for any period of time. If you're just going to have it for a couple three years, wire wheel the original or junkyard stuff.
Here's why I like the ARP stuff for water pump, timing cover, alt, etc.:
1. Higher tensile strength, not realy a big deal in external engine apps but beats the crap out of broke bolts.
2. Some timing cover, header, and water pump bolts are coolant wet. Standard bolts corrode quick. Quicker than you would expect after wire wheeling.
3. Smaller bolt heads than stock allow easier access when torquing intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc. bolts.
4. Peace of mind. Those ARP crank pulley bolts 'aint gonna break @ xxxx rpm. Nor will they ever rust.
No real need to mention why I like them in stress critcal applications over 35-40 yr old stock stuff.
Here's why I like the ARP stuff for water pump, timing cover, alt, etc.:
1. Higher tensile strength, not realy a big deal in external engine apps but beats the crap out of broke bolts.
2. Some timing cover, header, and water pump bolts are coolant wet. Standard bolts corrode quick. Quicker than you would expect after wire wheeling.
3. Smaller bolt heads than stock allow easier access when torquing intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc. bolts.
4. Peace of mind. Those ARP crank pulley bolts 'aint gonna break @ xxxx rpm. Nor will they ever rust.
No real need to mention why I like them in stress critcal applications over 35-40 yr old stock stuff.
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