Engine Break-in

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Rumblin_440

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Ok guys as some of you know I just recently did a little "sprucing" up to an old 440 I picked up. I replaced the camshaft and lifters(only internal upgrade) so now my question is on the break-in procedure.
I have already purchased some Lucas break-in additive but I'm not to sure what oil to go with as far as weight just for break-in.
How long should I run the engine on the break-in oil? Just during break-in process or 500,1000, etc...?
After break-in process what brand and weight oil would you recommend? I know the whole point of the additive is the zinc so what are your thoughts on running diesel engine oil which is high in zinc? Keep in mind the engine will have headers to purple hornies for exhaust so no cat or mufflers to clog up. Also I read that using the break-in additive in future oil changes prolongs the life of the cam and liters. Is this factual?
Now as for the break-in procedure in general I read somewhere that immediately after start up take the engine to somewhere between 2000-2500 RPMs, tho I dont remember for how long or how many times nor the cooling down procedure.
Any helpful info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
I use Brad Penn 30w break-in with a bottle of additive, run for 20-25 mins at the rpm you were talking about and change as soon as done. That has always worked for me. ozz
 
I just had my 318 on a run stand to break in the cam. Everything went good. Now, I think the right thing is change the oil, put more breakin oil for 500 miles it so, then onto regular oil? Is this correct??
Tganks
 
Um FYI the diesel oils finally got stripped of zinc a couple years ago. Very hard to find the old stuff. Amsoil does make a synthetic diesel oil that has the same lube quality as zinc oils but dino oils no longer contain it. Thank the EPA.
 
When I do my race engines, I run them through several cycles - up to a certain temp, cool it off, then do it again. I start out at lower temps for the first couple of cycles to make sure my file-fitted rings don't get too hot and butt before broke-in all the way. (I try to be extra cautious.) Another step, which was a pain until I switched to composite lifters, was to break in the cam with OEM or much lower pressure valve springs than the cam needs, not going too high with the rpms. (Extra insurance.) But rpms should be varied to help splash the oil around to different degrees.

Some diesel oils still have some zinc, but it's hard to keep up with the ever changing formulas unless it actuals gives that info on the bottle. Usually, when recommended for 2007 & newer trucks, it has a lot less. Break-in additive is a good idea if not using oil specifically made for break-in. Afterwards, use a proven/known high zinc oil and you won't need the extra additive. Personally, I use & recommend Amsoil products. They have their own break-n oil and a wide variety of regular high zinc oils to cover any application that needs it.

Amsoil high zinc options.
[ame]http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB%20MO-2007-08-08%20Flat%20Tappet.pdf[/ame]

Amsoil break-in oil:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ak-in-oil-(sae-30)/?page=/storefront/brk.aspx
 
Rumblin_440 said:
Those good oils for running or break-in?
Click to expand...

At 1200 ppm zinc it would make a great break in oil, but probably with additives on top of it.
These additives are good for motors but horrible for cat converters.
 
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