Engine Building Tools?

[jeeper]

Hello,

I am a shop teacher and I used to post here alot, still lurk multiple times a day...and post when needed. Truthfully I am doing the BBD thing so I have been there.

Anyways, we are finally working on the BB Dart Sport. It is a budget build, although I did increase the budget some. For this year it is getting a re-ring and some head work just to get the car going.

I live a good distance from town and I need to do as much of my own work as I can.

I'm preparing to order the re-ring kit for the 76 440 from Northern Automotive.
I can spend a modest amount on tools. I have a torque wrench and the usual hand tools.

I was wondering about a suitable hone, maybe ring compressor, etc. that type of stuff. Any other recommendations? I have build quite a few engines in years past, but it has been awhile since I have.

Any recommendations on a good source for quality tools that I can get online for reasonable?

Thank you as always, ROB

 

[moper]

If you are not a pro, really, there are only a few thigns you need. The good torque wrench, basic hand tools and sockets, the 12pt 3/8 for the rear main seal retainer bolts, a good set of feeler gages, a ball hone, a set of engine cleaning brushes, and an oil priming shaft. That last one for me is the lower part of an oil pump drive with a 5/16 pushrod welded to the end... It's not really a big deal. You can rent a rigde reamer if the engine needs it. If the ridge catches your finger nail, it needs it. Deck height, end play, rod side clearances, piston to wall clearances and ring gaps can all be checked with feeler gages so long as they are small enough. You need a set that has .001-.040". Ring grooves can be cleaned out with a broken old ring. The ball hone will give a fresh surface to a worn bore. But if moly rings are to be used, the finish is WAY too rough. I have used grey scotchbrite pads over my bar type hone with very good results with moly rings. The rest is just torque specs. This assumes you are using plastigage to check cearances on the crank and bearings too. I have some stuff I've bought from Goodson that works good. You could buy a ton more. That's the basics, and will get you a reliable stock type engine build.

 

[jeeper]

I knew I could count on Moper. Awesome! You replied to my post on Moparts too, the 451 question.

Jeeper equals Toyotajeep= same guy. I'm not sure why I did two names, but I have traditionally gone by ToyotaJeep.

Anyways, so you would recommend the cast rings for a re-ringer? And is a ball hone enough for those rings? I was looking at their Lisle brand fixed hone with stones, but if it is not needed, I'll go with the other for now.

No appreciable lip on the top of the cylinder.

Thanks, ROB

 

[340mopar]

I would only use cast iron rings on a re-ring job. Moly rings need a nice round cylinder to be 100% effective. The cast rings rings are soft enough to be able to conform to the cylinder taper and out of roundness. A dingle-ball hone and cast rings will give you as good as seal as your going to get without boring. Tight ring gaps are not usually a problem with re-ring jobs but another tool that you could get is a ring filler.


Chuck

 

[fishy68]

Another tool you'll need is a good ring compressor. I loaned my old trusty one out to someone and forgot who and never got it back. You know how that goes. Anyway I borrowed one from a buddy and it was the wrinkle band type made by Lisle. I liked it alot. Easy to adjust and less resistance so the piston slid into the bore easier than with my old one. Northern sells them for about $10 I think.