Engine Identification puzzle

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DQ81

'73 Dart
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Was under the Dart today and was able to get the casting number off the block, drivers side. From up top the headers are in the way.

Casting number:

4104-230-318-8

I googled a couple of websites, NONE of which listed my casting number, all but one:

http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

It doesn't give any information about the year and only lists this particular engine as a "Race Engine"

As much as I like the sound of that it doesn't give me any more information about the engine. The guy who put it in said it came out of a truck but in the few years that have passed had since forgotten what kind of truck....

Any ideas? What, if anything, is special about my engine/block?
 
Look on the front of the block, right under the drivers side cylinder head. There are some numbers there. You may have to scrape the paint off the block to see the numbers. The numbers are very small and stamped into the block
 
If it's out of a truck about the only thing that might be "special" is it might have a forged crank and valve rotators on the exhaust valves. Truck engines are not generally high performance. Just built tough.
 
69swinger340391 said:
Look on the front of the block, right under the drivers side cylinder head. There are some numbers there. You may have to scrape the paint off the block to see the numbers. The numbers are very small and stamped into the block
Click to expand...

aint' nothin there...

where do I look for the date of production, some sources say it should be stamped under the head on the drivers side like the casting number but there's nothing there.

Oke, so Fishy your saying it's a truck engine, is a forged crank heavier? I can't see much weight being added due to valve rotaters...

I really want to be sure of what I have in this motor. I know it's origional and hasn't been taken apart before. I want to know what I'm starting with before I make some minor modifications. It seems pretty 'quick' already (not off the line) for a stock 318 2/bbl, far from a necksnapper but 'quick'
 
The casting number should be cast on the block also. The only 318 "high performance" block would have come in a late 70's Diplomat or St. Regis cop car. There are a lot of good buildup ideas out there for the 318, it doesn't matter what you have inside right now, it's all how you build it. It is an excellent starting point no matter what the year or origin!!! Geof
 
my mopar only says.

4104230 318 - LA Race - Painted Orange


is there a dip stick in this block? is there a big X anywhere casted on the front of that block anywhere?


X-blocks had a 318 stamping on them.
 
abodyjoe said:
my mopar only says.

4104230 318 - LA Race - Painted Orange


is there a dip stick in this block? is there a big X anywhere casted on the front of that block anywhere?


X-blocks had a 318 stamping on them.
Click to expand...

I'll look for an X, there is a dipstick and the block is orange... I've gathered from other sources that this casting number indicates a 1980-1984 build date.

Excuse my ignorance but what would an X block have over a regular 318?
 
page 70 mopar performance A engine book:
4104230 318 1980 - 1983
what you have there is just your run of the mill 318 engine, nothing special, but a good starting point. not a forged crank engine. the actual casting date for your block will be on the right hand side of the block, the numbers will be about 3/8" tall under the engine mount.
 
The production date is cast on the right side of the block. Opposite the engine casting #. Weight has nothing to do with why they used valve rotators and a steel crank is a little heavier. Valve rotators were on truck engines to supposedly spread/distribute the heat load better since they run hotter under a work load. Forged crank is a little heavier but it is mainly used because it's stronger.

If it was assembled by the factory as you said it's not an aftermarket race X block because the aftermarket race blocks were never assembled. Only bare blocks sold for you to build on.

It doesn't sound like you have anything special but any 318 is a great engine and run decent even when stock. Allot depends on what gears you have in the vehicle. Back when I was in high school a buddy had a 71 Cuda 318 2 barrel and it would outrun any 350 Chevelle or Nova around easily. Even cleaned the clock on one guys 351 Cleveland Mustang. Reason why it ran so good was he put 3.91 gears with a sure grip in it.
 
fishy68 said:
The production date is cast on the right side of the block. Opposite the engine casting #. Weight has nothing to do with why they used valve rotators and a steel crank is a little heavier. Valve rotators were on truck engines to supposedly spread/distribute the heat load better since they run hotter under a work load. Forged crank is a little heavier but it is mainly used because it's stronger.

If it was assembled by the factory as you said it's not an aftermarket race X block because the aftermarket race blocks were never assembled. Only bare blocks sold for you to build on.

It doesn't sound like you have anything special but any 318 is a great engine and run decent even when stock. Allot depends on what gears you have in the vehicle. Back when I was in high school a buddy had a 71 Cuda 318 2 barrel and it would outrun any 350 Chevelle or Nova around easily. Even cleaned the clock on one guys 351 Cleveland Mustang. Reason why it ran so good was he put 3.91 gears with a sure grip in it.
Click to expand...


Thanks, thought as much. The heavier crank is never a bad thing although the HP I'll be making it isn't exactly applicable...

I'm pretty happy with the motor though it has a long way to go yet.

Any idea what a stock 8 1/4 has for gears?
 
DQ81 said:
Thanks, thought as much. The heavier crank is never a bad thing although the HP I'll be making it isn't exactly applicable...

I'm pretty happy with the motor though it has a long way to go yet.

Any idea what a stock 8 1/4 has for gears?
Click to expand...

Could be any number of gears depending on application and customer preference. Jack up the rear, mark the tire and spin it around 1 complete turn, and count the rev's of the driveshaft. That'll tell you what ratio is actually in yours, and if you're lucky both wheels will spin the same way and reveal the hidden suregrip. Good luck, Geof
 
cudagirl said:
Could be any number of gears depending on application and customer preference. Jack up the rear, mark the tire and spin it around 1 complete turn, and count the rev's of the driveshaft. That'll tell you what ratio is actually in yours, and if you're lucky both wheels will spin the same way and reveal the hidden suregrip. Good luck, Geof
Click to expand...

Very logical way to find out, but wouldn't have though of it my self.

Thanks Geof!
 
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