engine level?

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A408Cuda

A408Cuda

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So im finally getting my 408 bolted in for the last time, and have a silly question..
When I put a level on my oil pan it seems level but across the valve covers its slightly low on the passengers side. Should it be sitting level across the valve covers? I do have the car sitting level.
 
A408Cuda said:
So im finally getting my 408 bolted in for the last time, and have a silly question..
When I put a level on my oil pan it seems level but across the valve covers its slightly low on the passengers side. Should it be sitting level across the valve covers? I do have the car sitting level.
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter that much, but if it bugs you like it would me you can space your motor mount as long as it doesn't cause other problems somewhere else.
Biscuit style mounts can take a spacer plate, and spool mounts are easy.:D
(Just loosen the big through bolt and lift the motor a little, then tighten it back up.)
 
A408Cuda said:
So im finally getting my 408 bolted in for the last time, and have a silly question..
When I put a level on my oil pan it seems level but across the valve covers its slightly low on the passengers side. Should it be sitting level across the valve covers? I do have the car sitting level.
Click to expand...
If you are using old motor mounts you probably have a mount that is sagging. I changed out my old mounts with a set of Mighty mounts to correct a header clearance problem and a side benefit was that the new mounts leveled the engine.
 
I think that's common on the biscuit-mounts, on account of the pedestals are angled. The K-frame side is slotted, IMO for that reason. Just loosen the engine, jack it up, and shift it. Shim if you need to, to keep the headers clear of stuff.
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On mine, I had to loosen the engine brackets too; there is quite a bit of adjustment possible.I used the carb pad for leveling...... after the front-end alignment was done.. I had to raise the engine with spacers too for various clearance optimization, even with new OEM-type mounts. During the 4-wheel alignment I discovered one saggy rear spring, and the rear-end was off to one side; so I had to remedy that first. I guess it goes without saying, that the tire-pressures were equalized.
When using the Milodon roadrace pan, clearance to my K was less that zero; it had to be notched. Torch took care of that in just seconds.
After all that, I still had to adjust my TTIs with a couple of well-placed blows.The tightest spot was at the pitman/idler arm. I swapped to the 73-up arms but they too still tagged the headers. Oh yeah, I had to adjust the transmission mount too. I had to use the 73-up cross member.
This, in a '68 Barracuda (an original slanty car), with a '70Duster340 K-member, and '71 360, using 340 engine brackets..
Whatever you do, allow plenty of clearance from the headers to the T-bars, to prevent rattles when the engine torques over. I tied the engine down with a Schumacher Torque-strap.
Yeah I know. I had the expectation that this install was gonna be short,sweet, and simple.
I think it was almost a week with; the initial fitting and K-member notching, the preliminary alignment check, the spring swap, cutting off the spring perches, centering the diff, setting the pinion angle, tacking in the new perchs, dropping the rear and final welding. Then the body leveling,the front-end preliminary-alignment/steering and steering-box swap/header adjustment, and bump-steer optimization......... and then the final engine levelling; phewph!
Of course all that put the air-cleaner into the hood......... dang AirGap,lol. Out came the jigsaw.
But I gotta tell ya; the end result was worth every minute of it.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I think that's common on the biscuit-mounts, on account of the pedestals are angled. The K-frame side is slotted, IMO for that reason. Just loosen the engine, jack it up, and shift it. Shim if you need to, to keep the headers clear of stuff.
________________________________
On mine, I had to loosen the engine brackets too; there is quite a bit of adjustment possible.I used the carb pad for leveling...... after the front-end alignment was done.. I had to raise the engine with spacers too for various clearance optimization, even with new OEM-type mounts. During the 4-wheel alignment I discovered one saggy rear spring, and the rear-end was off to one side; so I had to remedy that first. I guess it goes without saying, that the tire-pressures were equalized.
When using the Milodon roadrace pan, clearance to my K was less that zero; it had to be notched. Torch took care of that in just seconds.
After all that, I still had to adjust my TTIs with a couple of well-placed blows.The tightest spot was at the pitman/idler arm. I swapped to the 73-up arms but they too still tagged the headers. Oh yeah, I had to adjust the transmission mount too. I had to use the 73-up cross member.
This, in a '68 Barracuda (an original slanty car), with a '70Duster340 K-member, and '71 360, using 340 engine brackets..
Whatever you do, allow plenty of clearance from the headers to the T-bars, to prevent rattles when the engine torques over. I tied the engine down with a Schumacher Torque-strap.
Yeah I know. I had the expectation that this install was gonna be short,sweet, and simple.
I think it was almost a week with; the initial fitting and K-member notching, the preliminary alignment check, the spring swap, cutting off the spring perches, centering the diff, setting the pinion angle, tacking in the new perchs, dropping the rear and final welding. Then the body leveling,the front-end preliminary-alignment/steering and steering-box swap/header adjustment, and bump-steer optimization......... and then the final engine levelling; phewph!
Of course all that put the air-cleaner into the hood......... dang AirGap,lol. Out came the jigsaw.
But I gotta tell ya; the end result was worth every minute of it.
Click to expand...
pile of crap milodon oil pan leaking from brand new piece of crap! I had to Sawzall my K frame...
 
I'd like to know which car they were using? When they mock this thing up new..
 
I've seen this before. In fact, most probably lean slightly, but maybe not noticeable by eye. New mounts is the first place to start. Then, you can put a washer or two under one side to raise it up if it's the biscuit style. I've done this to "Jussssst get the header clearance before".... LOL
 
Mine leaked too .......................... after a hard landing during a grass-rally-cross event, put it into the dirt, lol.
I tried three times to braze it up, but it just cracked right thru the brazing. I finally took it off and had a professional put a patch on the inside. In the meantime I fabbed up a lil skid-plate, and raised the car a smidge. The early 1.03 bars had very little preload on them, still to this day.
Never leaked after that.
Sorry you got a pos part,lol.
 
I know I have to have my carburetors level! If I didn't that dual-quad tunnel ram would look like the Leaning Tower of Pisa! LOL

you guys better be glad that I correct my voice command or I would have had a dual quad telegram! LOL..
 
Mine leaked too at the welds, brand new... sucky, JB weld fixed it. Also had to notch the K. So this is a tremec 5 speed and originally a slant car so motor mounts have been a pain in the a-hole. I've got it where I want it and I can shim it but I just got to thinking I don't even know if they sat level from the factory..

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The pre-spool mount k-members have slotted holes so you can adjust the engine side to side to get it level.
 
The slotted k-member is there so you can level the engine side to side . However , before this is done the car must be level regardless of the suspension and tires . Jack up the car and get the weight off the tires . Level car side to side using shims if necessary , then, level motor . I leveled mine both ways . Took a long time but ai learned a lot . As for levelling the carb is concerned if the carb has to be level the car would never go up or down hills . But 2-3* is ok
 
Ah, just bend down and look over the radiator support at your air cleaner and see if it's level enough.:D
 
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