Engine mount confusion

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WSUTARD

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I have been working on this for way too long. I can't even figure out the engine mounts.

The one for the driver side is a tad too wide. And the passenger double holes are on the opposite side of the block double holes.

What am I doing wrong.
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Funny, I knew I would forget how they went, so I took a picture. Different mount, I know. It may be the same bolt orientation for you though. Off a '73 318. Please forgive the crappy cell phone editing depicting left, right, front, and back. All bolt heads are on the inside. Hope this helps.
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WSUTARD said:
I have been working on this for way too long. I can't even figure out the engine mounts.

The one for the driver side is a tad too wide. And the passenger double holes are on the opposite side of the block double holes.

What am I doing wrong.
View attachment 1715036529 View attachment 1715036535 View attachment 1715036536 View attachment 1715036537
Click to expand...

This is very common and fairly straight forward. You have 272/318 brackets being installed on a 340/360 engine. The 340/360 have a narrower lug pattern on the drivers side and on the passenger side the lugs are a mirror image of the 273/318's. You don't say what vehicle you are working with but the brackets are from a B,C,E-body. So the bottom line is that you need a set of 340/360 brackets that match the K-member and vehicle.

I'm sure some of you friends or folks on this forum can help you out with an extra set but if not then we can fix you right up.

Sincerely,

Michael
 
73Swinger18 said:
What year is the k member from?
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Sorry I'm a little new to these forums, but further down I see that you have a B-body K-member with a 340. So all you need is a set of '66-72 B, 70-74 E, and 66-73 C-body 340/360 motor mounts.

Sincerely,

Michael
 
engine-swaps.com said:
Sorry I'm a little new to these forums, but further down I see that you have a B-body K-member with a 340. So all you need is a set of '66-72 B, 70-74 E, and 66-73 C-body 340/360 motor mounts.

Sincerely,

Michael
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Yep, 69 Coronet. Originally a 318 car. I suspect that k member is also original.

The thing that is throwing me off is that these mounts came off this engine and k member about a month ago. I'm guessing they they "made it work" on the conversion. I didn't know what to look for as I took it apart.

I was planning on reinstalling the engine and k member this weekend but I guess I should wait and get the correct mounts now that I know my mounts are wrong.

I will check the marketplace for some 340/360 mounts. If I can't find any I will give your business a call. I'm also in Seattle. Thanks for the info.
 
engine-swaps.com said:
Sorry I'm a little new to these forums, but further down I see that you have a B-body K-member with a 340. So all you need is a set of '66-72 B, 70-74 E, and 66-73 C-body 340/360 motor mounts.

Sincerely,

Michael
Click to expand...
Would these mounts work? Mopar parts-varies

They list two, 68 Charger Small Block mounts and your A body conversion to 340 mounts. (Which is kind of ironic). I'm thinking the Charger mounts would work but they list them as "small block" which could mean 340 or 318.

Now that I think about it, would your A body conversion mounts work if I swapped out the k member mounting plate?

Sorry for all the questions.
 
Lelo Dart said:
'66-72 B-Body Products

I think the drivers side can be shimmed up with some washers if you wanted to try that instead.
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Yep. You just gotta be patient and get the shim thickness spot on, so that when you torque down the bolt in the back, it does not overly stress and snap off the back ear on the block. (The same can happen with a proper mount if one of the mount ears is bent too far off....)
 
Well the problem is actually on the passenger side. The holes on the mount don't match to the holes on the block. The block has the two holes in the front. The mount has them in the back.

I have no clue how they made that work prior.
 
I would suggest getting rid of the made in Korea insulators..... I have used the replacement offshore ones before. The rubber is inferior quality and mine broke down and failed prematurely. I think michael from engine swaps can help you out. Most of the over the parts counter replacement mounts now are offshore junk.
 
WSUTARD said:
I have been working on this for way too long. I can't even figure out the engine mounts.

The one for the driver side is a tad too wide. And the passenger double holes are on the opposite side of the block double holes.

What am I doing wrong.
View attachment 1715036529 View attachment 1715036535 View attachment 1715036536 View attachment 1715036537
Click to expand...


WSUTARD said:
Yep, 69 Coronet. Originally a 318 car. I suspect that k member is also original.

The thing that is throwing me off is that these mounts came off this engine and k member about a month ago. I'm guessing they they "made it work" on the conversion. I didn't know what to look for as I took it apart.

I was planning on reinstalling the engine and k member this weekend but I guess I should wait and get the correct mounts now that I know my mounts are wrong.

I will check the marketplace for some 340/360 mounts. If I can't find any I will give your business a call. I'm also in Seattle. Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

If you are in a hurry you can "make" them work. Lelo Dart is right, you can shim the drivers side reward lug if you want. Just snug up the forward two bolts and fill the gap in the rear until it's close and then tighten it down. The passenger side is only missing a hole. So if you have access to a drill press and a 1/2" drill bit you can drill out the 4th hole. Easiest way to be accurate is to clamp the bracket on it's side with the 2 holes facing up. Use the existing hole as a guide to locate the missing one on the opposite side. Of course you could measure, if you want…duh. The side holes are on 2" centers. Now you have the required 3 holes to mount the passenger side and you are working this weekend.
 
engine-swaps.com said:
If you are in a hurry you can "make" them work. Lelo Dart is right, you can shim the drivers side reward lug if you want. Just snug up the forward two bolts and fill the gap in the rear until it's close and then tighten it down. The passenger side is only missing a hole. So if you have access to a drill press and a 1/2" drill bit you can drill out the 4th hole. Easiest way to be accurate is to clamp the bracket on it's side with the 2 holes facing up. Use the existing hole as a guide to locate the missing one on the opposite side. Of course you could measure, if you want…duh. The side holes are on 2" centers. Now you have the required 3 holes to mount the passenger side and you are working this weekend.
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Good ideas but I don't want to take short cuts. I will wait till Monday.
 
Shim driver side

Drill the required hole on pass side.
 
I connected with engine-swaps (AKA, Michael at Schumacher Creative Services) and he hooked me up with the correct parts. He knows his stuff about mounts.

Thanks a ton!
 
Question. My mount bolt is very close to the block on the drivers side. Pics below. How close it too close?
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Pretty much solid where it goes through the bracket so it should be okay, also the drivers side pulls away with the movement of the motor.
 
Well, it's all torqued up where it was in the pic. I will see about more clearance once I get it in the car and bolted down.
 
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