Engine Oil Discussion

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I find it very rude to go off on people who are trying to help the OP with their question. This forum was not created for name calling and foul language. I suppose you would call me a liar if I told you I've been involved in operating a piece of equipment that puts out 938,715 hp and is still running on it's original oil since 1958? Oh, its mineral based oil as well.
 
I find it very rude to go off on people who are trying to help the OP with their question. This forum was not created for name calling and foul language. I suppose you would call me a liar if I told you I've been involved in operating a piece of equipment that puts out 938,715 hp and is still running on it's original oil since 1958? Oh, its mineral based oil as well.
I sure wouldn't call you a liar, but I would love to know what it is.
 
USS Gerald Ford?
I was thinking along those lines, except in 1958 Jerry was still a Congressman and the ship named for him 50 years later is powered by a couple of nuclear reactors.
 
Idiot, name calling proves you are a clown. Going off on synthetic oil after someone with a 1974, oil burning in a 225 asks about oil? You have not an ounce of help for the OP. Go back to playing with you dyno.
I dunno what "Rat Bastid" said/ since I've had him on "ignore" status for long enough that I don't remember why, but again judging by the comments that follow the post that reminds me of that, I'm guessing he's up to the same thing he was when I put him on "ignore".
And on the oil burning topic as related to this thread, I've fixed a few that came to me as "oil burners" (not all but "some") simply by replacing the valve guide seals and did so without even pulling the head(s). If you have a compression gauge that clips apart like an air hose, a decent air compressor and the right style of valve spring compressor it can be done with the head in place.
 
Yep, aware that the GF is nuke powered but I think the power rating is still made in hp.
 
I didn’t go off. You jumped in on a conversation and ran your idiot mouth. You should have kept it shut because it exposed you as a fool.

Go play with your slow junk ****.
Thanks Bozo. I'm here to try and help people, not pontificate, puff my self up, or argue my opinions. I actually read threads and give my advice or experience. I see no benefit to using Synthetic or light oil and my experience has only backed that up. You may believe what you want if it makes you feel better.
 
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well...after all the posts i'm betting your totally confused. All the oil companies have
engineers and chemists who have dedicated their life to producing lubricating oil.
It's unlikely that any one is better than the rest and adding a bottle of something
probably won't change anything either. If your engine is using oil find out why and
repair it. Until then just buy the oil that is on sale and carry on.
 
well...after all the posts i'm betting your totally confused. All the oil companies have
engineers and chemists who have dedicated their life to producing lubricating oil.
It's unlikely that any one is better than the rest and adding a bottle of something
probably won't change anything either. If your engine is using oil find out why and
repair it. Until then just buy the oil that is on sale and carry on.


Geezuz.
 
I find it very rude to go off on people who are trying to help the OP with their question. This forum was not created for name calling and foul language. I suppose you would call me a liar if I told you I've been involved in operating a piece of equipment that puts out 938,715 hp and is still running on it's original oil since 1958? Oh, its mineral based oil as well.
pipeline engine ??
 
Thanks Bozo. I'm here to try and help people, not pontificate, puff my self up, or argue my opinions. I actually read threads and give my advice or experience. I see no benefit to using Synthetic or light oil and my experience has only backed that up. You may believe what you want if it makes you feel better.
you evedently havent seen real world tests of burning up bearings with diff. oils ....
 
USS Gerald Ford?
Actually it could be.
I was actually referring to a steam powered turbine generator at a power plant. All turbine generator units on the commercial side and I'm sure military as well will use oil conditioners (several brands out there, Bowser is common) to filter and evacuate moisture using a vacuum pump, in addition to heat exchangers to cool the oil. Lube oil samples are taken on a regular basis, typically monthly and sent for analysis. We had a chemistry department that did this internally. The chemist will check the oil for potential to break down using what is known as a rotating bomb test, in which it is heated above normal operating temperatures and the amount of time it takes to degrade is then used to determine future life. Additive levels are also measured and they will from time to time recommend the addition of certain additives because filtration will remove certain additives believe it or not. In addition they will also do a spectrum analysis to determine wear materials in the oil. But every major unit like this will operate on the original oil for decades and decades unless something major happens to cause it to break down...which is usually high temperature.

When our company first purchased their spectrum analysis machine, the very first sample they put in it was late in the afternoon on a Friday. It was showing VERY high iron content and being the first time they used it, they were not sure if they were using it properly or not. The sample was on a hydro-electric turbine which was fairly low output so the risk of shutting it down financially was relatively low as opposed to shutting down say a nuclear or coal unit and being wrong. So, they called the hydro department and recommended they shut the unit down immediately. Turned out there was a bad bearing and the maintenance department estimated they would have come back on monday to a catastrophic failure.
 
Yep, aware that the GF is nuke powered but I think the power rating is still made in hp.
Agreed. My point was that since the Ford is brand new, running on oil not changed since 1958 would have put it out of the question. More like a Forrestal class. But we have our answer! Thanks @ACME SS.
 
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I find it very rude to go off on people who are trying to help the OP with their question. This forum was not created for name calling and foul language. I suppose you would call me a liar if I told you I've been involved in operating a piece of equipment that puts out 938,715 hp and is still running on it's original oil since 1958? Oh, its mineral based oil as well.

Don’t post bad information and then act like a jackass when you get called out on it and it won’t happen.

Are you going to make the claim that mineral oils are better in ANY way than synthetic oils other than cost? If you do, you’ll be wrong too.

You do realize that OIL seals the rings don’t you? So an oil burner may reduce (even significantly in some cases) oil consumption with a QUALITY synthetic oil.

But none of the cheap *** old bastards on here are willing to even consider that idea.

That’s THE issue. It’s had to have an “exchange of ideas” when some of the guys on this forum aren’t capable of doing it all based on their ignorance and stiff necked bull headedness.

I’ll say it again, and this includes old engines, and even some oil users.

Synthetic oils win hands down in every aspect of lubrication. Not even close. It only loses in INITIAL expense.

To argue this is plain asshattery.
 
Don’t post bad information and then act like a jackass when you get called out on it and it won’t happen.

Are you going to make the claim that mineral oils are better in ANY way than synthetic oils other than cost? If you do, you’ll be wrong too.

You do realize that OIL seals the rings don’t you? So an oil burner may reduce (even significantly in some cases) oil consumption with a QUALITY synthetic oil.

But none of the cheap *** old bastards on here are willing to even consider that idea.

That’s THE issue. It’s had to have an “exchange of ideas” when some of the guys on this forum aren’t capable of doing it all based on their ignorance and stiff necked bull headedness.

I’ll say it again, and this includes old engines, and even some oil users.

Synthetic oils win hands down in every aspect of lubrication. Not even close. It only loses in INITIAL expense.

To argue this is plain asshattery.
Wow! Go back to the original post...74 slant 6 I believe.... Nobody said, and I mean nobody, that conventional oil is better than synthetic. Its all about perspective. And stop the foul mouthed language!
 
Wow! Go back to the original post...74 slant 6 I believe.... Nobody said, and I mean nobody, that conventional oil is better than synthetic. Its all about perspective. And stop the foul mouthed language!

How about you mind your business. Or better yet, put me on ignore. No one needed your bullshit in this thread.

Piss off
 
I'll add my personal experience.

Worn out engines benefit even more from synthetic oils. They're usually worn from neglect and owners being cheap. They tend to continue wearing rapidly because nothing is where it should be. Pressure is low, clearances are huge, volume of flow is down, and finishes are often sub optimal and higher friction. Getting a better, slicker barrier in place helps limp along before it finally gives up. Typically they'll soak up more contaminants too due to better additives than the cheap junk on clearance at the local discount hardware store.

If you want an excuse to rebuilt it, run some cheap *** farm fleet bulk oil, or better yet some recycled junk that's cheaper than canola oil, and then act surprised when you're picking up bits off the side of the road.

I've put synthetics in everything that are past broken in and have never found the old wives tales of leaks or burning to be true. If anything, synthetics have helped pull sludge and junk from inside everything from my tractors to lawnmowers and even high mile beater motors. This makes them far less gross to deal with when it comes time for an overhaul too.
Every leak I've experienced has been due to cheap gaskets, parts prepped with a hammer and chisel, or so worn by horribly hard seals that nothing would stay behind the rubber. Early synthetics did have more issues, but technology has marched on and and in over 20 years of using it, I've yet to have it be the cause of a single issue I've ever run into. If anything it has saved me plenty of motors and turbos that suffered momentary oil starvation, because when I did try to cheap out when I was super broke those same momentary losses of pressure killed engines and turbos so quickly it was a joke.

Everything I've run conventional oil in looks the same inside: like trash. Dark, grimey, and as if was filled with bearing grease then cooked over an open flame. If conventional oil fixes mystery leak, it's because it's plugging shitty assembly practices. There's a reason Bubbas motor always looks like it was recovered from an oil slick "but doesn't drop a drop!"

Synthetics can also golonger between changes, making cheaper oils a false economic saving. Unless the stuff pours out as fast as you're pouring it in, synthetics will likely be break even at worst.

It's true that some people simply don't have the option to run what's optimal, but to suggest against the best potential solution based on old wives tales is a joke.

Also, anyone claiming it doesn't matter if oil unlocks more HP misses the entire point. Any power consumed by the oil is the result of heat and friction, which we can also consider wear. Most people won't get this though.

Hopefully OP gets many more miles from his Slant. He'd get the most though from a decent synthetic that's slightly heavier than the original spec (to help with worn clearances, assuming idle pressure is suboptimal).
 
you evedently havent seen real world tests of burning up bearings with diff. oils ....

No I have not. I was just giving my real world experience having put over a million miles on MOPAR engines in answer to "Synthetic oils are the only oils to use". Most of my engines have been in service for 30 to 40 years long before synthetics were available. Most have between 250,000 to 300,000 miles on them. They all still run like new having run Valvoline Racing oil. You all can drink the "cool aid" if you want. From my experience with engines from the 2.0 liter 4 cylinder, to a 4.0 liter Jeep, to high winding 273's, to a 383 synthetic oil is not "needed". Carry on with your theoretical "better" oil discussion, keeping in mind the OP is running a tired 74 slant six. He absolutely does not "need" synthetic oil.
 
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