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rustykey

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I am new to mopar and my pops and I just purchased a 73 Swinger to rebuild. It has a 318/904 combo in it. I think the heads are stock. I have not even taken delivery yet. We want 325 to 350 HP out of it. Is that reasonable out of a 318? And what would you recommend I do to it to get that out of it. Also, how strong is the 904 tranny, anything special I should do to it. I am new to the mopar scene, always been a chevy guy so I don't know much about em except I like em. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rusty
 
The 904 should hold up to it if it hasnt been beaten on over the years.

I would put in new pistons, Keith Black hypers are a good and cheap choice. The heads you can either have your cylinder heads worked on by a cylinder head guy or just buy a set of 302 heads (82 and up I believe). Have them cleaned up and do just a little work to them and bolt them on. Edelbrock Performer Intake with 650 carb. Also a CompCams hydraulic camshaft, they make a special type just for us Mopar guys using the stock valvetrain but I cant remember the name of them. You can reuse alot of original parts just as long as they arent broken, showing wear or stress and such. You can even use the original exhaust manifolds and just have them cleaned up. Go through the block and make sure you dont need any major machine work done to it. Possibly will need an over bore though.
 
B&S, pick a cam for the man. I like your idea so far. Good ideas. I'd look at a 340 replacement cam.

As far as getting a Mopar only cam lifter, the idea is to take advantage of the larger lifter area for a quicker riseing ramp to whip open the valve for better cylinder filling. And more as well. It is not really needed, but helpful in the HP search.

Yes, 350 HP is very reasonable and easy no less.

Measure up your 318 and do the math for the actual ratio it has. You really do not need much. 9.0-1 would be great. The KB pistons are a zero deck piston and could cause a compresion excess problem with the iron heads. If you go that way, just use a slightly thicker gasket to take the edge off.

Also, on the heads, good prep work is what you'll be looking at. Back cut OE valves. Take to BJR or another head guy here.
 
Great advice given above for the engine. Also to note the 904 trans. will be just fine for what your doing. In fact it is the best choice because it won't rob excesive power from that little teen. Just do a quality rebuild on it and install a Trans-go tf-2 kit and a trans cooler and it'll be good to go. If you want a little better takeoff install a looser converter. Something in the range of 2000-2500 (cam size dependant) will give it a nice kick in the butt on takeoff.

One thing you might want to check out also is what rearend it has. Some 318 cars had the dinky little 7-1/4. It won't last long at all with a 325 plus hp engine. Find an 8-1/4 for it if it has the 7-1/4.
 
Good point on the rear there Fishy. Good idea on the stall converter too.
 
Thanks rumblefish360, learned alot on here and working on my own things around the house.

Let me look around for a cam and I will re post tonight.
 
rustykey, what rear end gears will you end up with? Weight of car?
 
Currently it has tthe 7 1/4 rear, but I was going to buy a 8 3/4???? from the guy I bought the car from. I was thinking a streetable 3:23 to 3:55 in the car. Something that I can cruise in but go to the track if I want. I already checked the trans-go shift kit out and was planning on that as well as the cooler and a mild stall. I used to have a trans-go in my chevy 402/th350 combo...worked well. As for weight, I don't know what it will weight when it is done. Is 3500 about right for these cars (73 Swinger)?

The guys I bought the car from is a big mopar guy and he has a set of the 340 heads that were mentioned earlier. Will those work better than if I had my 318 heads worked and port matched with my intake? 350 to 400 HP is now what I am looking for.
 
The 340 heads will have a weak port velocity and give a feeling of a sogooogy bottom end. The 318 heads preped would be better at this point so far. As far as bolt on and go, yea, they'll work.
If your looking for HP under 350 and have excellent street manors, the 318 are it. Ported, they'll do better than the 340 head in most lower HP levels. At 400 HP the 340 head may have good merits. Just in terms of cost assuming there ready to bolt on and go.
350 or 400 HP is a rather large gap to target for.
3.55's would be cool.
 
I have to agree 3.55s would be a cool gear for your needs.

The 318 heads you have if ported out will have to be very carefully done. I believe the 340 head came with 2.02 intake valves, which can work with the 318s bore size, but in my opinion and same as rumblefish your port velocity would suffer. I personally would only use them if I was to do a 318 Stroker, which is still in the design stage but getting there. They would work on say a 349 (318 with 360 crank) or a 390 (318 with 4.00" crank) but they are way to much head for a stock stroke 318. A set of 360 heads with 1.88/1.60 valves would be a better choice but still, you would need to mill the head down to keep compression up. The 302 heads I talked about earlier are a good choice also, but you would also need to do a tad bit of port work to them possibly, dont have my numbers in front of me so I am not sure.

When you step up to the 400hp mark in a 318 its true nature comes out, revving. With that comes the need for more carb, cam, slightly bigger or better designed headers, and other things. Its going to be a bigger bill for you in the end, but some more fun, if you are like me and love to show off in front of your buddys on cruise nite.

Not to get personal but how much are you planning on investing into this car?
 
Another good head choice is the newer heads used on Magnum engines. You can easily go over 350 hp with them without doing any port work. Just a good perf. valve job. They also have smaller chambers like your original heads so you won't loose any compression. You do have to use lifters and pushrods to make it oil through the pushrods.
 
1992+ Magnum heads FTW! They are cheap ($250-350 for fully rebuilt ones) and flow better stock than most ported vintage heads. They also have great velocity and small valves which are perfect for a performance 318. The swap has been discussed many times. I run Magnums heads on my engines (recently stepped up to the Mopar Performance R/T's) and they are a great choice. Not to mention never have to worry about leaky gaskets anymore. Nice 62/63cc chambers too with awesome quench pads...yummy.
An entire 5.2L/5.9L Magnum engine is only about $400.00 and I have been picking them up for free/$50.00/$100.00...

A-bodies + 350 HP = too much fun
 
best head is the 302 head ported to 360 intake with minor bowl work and stock valves you have a better head then the MAG ask BJR racing he will explain it ALLL and i have a pair for sale
 
I am getting confused...LOL All of these numbers 302, 318,340,360, 390...LOL I am learning though.

Well, as for cost, I was thinking I would spend about roughly $6000 up to $7000 on the car total. I am not sure what it cost to work on a mopar yet. I have about $13k in my Chevy c10 and it needs interior and paint still. It has more goodies on it than what I am planning with the Swinger.

My plan for the Swinger is a nice...not show quality paint/body job, keep stock interior (needs headliner and carpet), some wheels and tires, and get the drivetrain/powertrain where I want it.

I may be pushing the envelope with all that I want to do, but that is what I have in mind.

Bang for the buck: Using my 318 foundation what would be with most logical way for me to go with my motor knowing that I want atleast 350hp with 400hp being my high end. I will be happy anywhere between. Would it be a stroker motor?

I appreciate all of the help, sorry if you get tired of getting the same questions from us newbies. You guys will be seeing alot from me. Pics will come in about a week.
 
rustykey now that you have told us what you are after in the end and your budget its alot easier, haha. No you wouldnt have to build a stroker motor to get 400hp either.

I am guessing that the body, interior, and frame are in good condition, is that correct?

Let me get some facts straight, cause I just recently seen one of ur post but didnt look at it completely. You want a 73 swinger, with 17 or 18 inch wheels, a 350-400hp 318, 904 automatic, new rearend, and some interior things as well, correct? And for all under 7,000 dollars, correct?
 
LOL, Were here for newbies and those at cross roads and in need of some help and etc.......

350 being the low end? OK, do some prep work to the stock heads with stock valves. Bowl port and open up the intakes port window to the 340/360 window size and add 340/360 intake. Add comp XE268 cam kit. Current compresion will not be enuff if stone stock, you'll need to mill the head down.
 
Yes, the car is in great shape besides a couple of body issues that will be easily corrected.

Interior is stock and in great shape, will need a new headliner, carpet and general cleaning.

Wheels: I would like to get 17 to 18 inch wheels under it.

Rearend: will most likely be a streetable 3:23 to 3:55 range.

Tranny:904 will have a mild stall, shift kit with tranny cooler.

Frame: is in good shape as well. Will probably have it steam cleaned and rattle can it...nothing special.

Exhaust: Headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust with 2 chamber flows

Engine: 318 with 350hp to 400hp, with some dress up goodies.

Stance: Have you ever seen a Dart lowered a little bit? I was thinking 2 inches with a taller rim would look killer....kinda like a pro touring stance. What do you think?

All of this with help/education from you guys and a $7000 pocket book. My goal is not a show winner, just a clean A body that will turn some heads and be fun for my dad and I to cruise in. Thanks for the help so far.

Rusty
 
Stance: Have you ever seen a Dart lowered a little bit? I was thinking 2 inches with a taller rim would look killer....kinda like a pro touring stance. What do you think?
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Well, honestly I'm thinking I shouldn't have had the Whooper Jr. for lunch, but the car idea sounds good. Not my style, but that is just me and your doing your car your way. Screw anybody else. If they don't like it, they can do one themselfs or turn there heads away.
I'm not really a big hoopster wheel fan myself, but I have seen them on car I didn't think I'd like'em on. They worked well in a well thought out manor. Not just slapped on and run.
 
I like the classic stance also. If I do the classic stance I will go with Weld Draglites. I will have to see one in the pro-touring style before I actually go with it. I would hate to spend the money on it and it turn out looking like crap.
 
rustykey said:
I like the classic stance also. If I do the classic stance I will go with Weld Draglites. I will have to see one in the pro-touring style before I actually go with it. I would hate to spend the money on it and it turn out looking like crap.
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Make sure you know your bolt pattern. If it is 5 on 4, your choices are limited. 5 on 4 1/2= more choices.

There are still great choice for the small bolt pattern ( ralleyes, Crager ss)
 
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