engine rebuild

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Dartman1967

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It appears that my 273 is in need of a rebuild as I haven't been able to get rid of the "smoking thing". Is it possible to just get the "top" of the engine rebuilt? What should I expect to pay for something like this? What about a complete rebuild? the cost of a rebuild-approximately?
 
is your car a numbers matching car?? cause I wouldn't bother with rebuilding it unless it is, other wise you have a ton of options as far as 318,340, 360 etc. I rebuilt the top end of my 318 I used to have in my duster and that resulted in blowing out the bottom end sealing the top put more stress on the bottom so after a short time the rings were bad and it was using a lot of oil. IMO you shouldn't do just the top cause the bottom wears out same as the top unless you know for sure your bottom end is in good shape ie; you've had it rebuilt etc..
 
You could do a quick "refresh" (new bearings and rings). But you may have trouble finding the 273 rings, or have them special ordered.


Mancini Racing has nice "refresh" kits at different levels at very reasonable prices for the 318/340/360 engines.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/enrebkit.html


Here's a basic kit with main and rod bearings, rings, and gasket kit for $200...

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealedpowerkit.html

A few more bucks, and you can get moly rings:

Or go with bearings, rings, pistons, oil pump, freeze plugs, and gasket kit for $400 for a 318, $420 for a 360, and $630 for a 340....

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealpowkitc.html

Or add forged piastons for a 340 for $750:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealpowkitd.html


Those are for Sealed Power kits also have similar kits in Michigan Engine parts.


You may want to buy a spare 318-360 to rebuild and put in there for fun, then keep your original engine aside. Then if something happens to the "fun" engine, you still have the original...
 
Then there's the guides, stem seals and valves on top of that or it very well could smoke just like it did before.
 
Then there's the guides, stem seals and valves on top of that or it very well could smoke just like it did before.


Oh yes, you have to get the heads reconditioned. I figured that would be part of his "top end" job. I was just trying to show him to seal up the bottom end also.

If you don't fix both, it will just exaggerate the leak when you fix the other.... :banghead:


If you are going to improve the seal on your cylinder, you have to go for all of them, or you're wasting your time.... :violent1:
 
I just picked up a reman engine at auto something and changed the camshaft and springs dropped it in, went with the 318 so I wouldn't have to change balancer or flywheel total parts $1850 68 dart ,was 273.
 
I just picked up a reman engine at auto something and changed the camshaft and springs dropped it in, went with the 318 so I wouldn't have to change balancer or flywheel total parts $1850 68 dart ,was 273.

That's one way of solving the problem. :)
 
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