Engine removal question

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superchargeddrt said:
Yeah that's what I was thinking.
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I just retired from a Chevy/Toyota dealer service facility where over the last couple of years we systematically replaced two dozen older lifts. Very economical and they sit on top of the floor (no pits) so if you ever have to move them it is pretty easy.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
I just retired from a Chevy/Toyota dealer service facility where over the last couple of years we systematically replaced two dozen older lifts. Very economical and they sit on top of the floor (no pits) so if you ever have to move them it is pretty easy.
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Yeah and they're easy to install. My buddy and me installed mine in one afternoon. They spec 4" thick concrete with a minimum of 3000 PSI. I have 4" thick (6 inches at the uprights) and it's rated at 4000 PSI. Just get a brand new high quality drill bit and use a shop vac to keep the dust out of the hole while drilling.. I also (even though it wasn't required) used a cement epoxy on the bolts.
 
WCMachine said:
What exactly did you hook to on the body to lift it?
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Hooked the chain on the frame rails. I wedge a 2x4 between them so they don’t pull in but that’s probably over thinking it. Done it a couple times like this with no issues
 
superchargeddrt said:
Got tired of rolling around on the ground. When I built my new garage I put 12 ft walls in and installed a lift, it's always been a dream of mine.View attachment 1715108587
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Make sure you get proper training and instructions before using your lift.

Proper%20Lift%20Usage%20Tutorial%202_zpsyjrehmuq.jpg
 
Well you guys have changed my thinking, out the bottom it is. It just makes more sense the more I think about it. Thank you!
 
WCMachine said:
Well you guys have changed my thinking, out the bottom it is. It just makes more sense the more I think about it. Thank you!
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You will be so glad you did. Remember to put the back wheels up on some ramps or blocks; It's a lot easier to tilt the car up and to maneuver the engine out so you can roll it away.

And if it seems easy this time, just like everything else, wait until you do it the next time! (You'll be an expert at it by then).
 
Well, WCMachine, If you are not confused by now, you never will be. Here is my opinion. As suggested by crewchief, use the carb base plate and pull the engine and tranny at the same time. You can "borrow" a carb base plate at most box car parts stores. The people saying to lift body and leave engine on K Frame may not be thinking about a guy pulling an engine for the first time. I've been doing this for a LONG time, and as cool as it would be, I haven't done it like that yet. You will need a helper to help pull the engine forward as it comes out (via yanking the crane forward), and to lift the tranny tail over the car's nose as it comes out. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. I wish you lived close to me, I'd come over to help.
 
harrisonm said:
Well, WCMachine, If you are not confused by now, you never will be. Here is my opinion. As suggested by crewchief, use the carb base plate and pull the engine and tranny at the same time. You can "borrow" a carb base plate at most box car parts stores. The people saying to lift body and leave engine on K Frame may not be thinking about a guy pulling an engine for the first time. I've been doing this for a LONG time, and as cool as it would be, I haven't done it like that yet. You will need a helper to help pull the engine forward as it comes out (via yanking the crane forward), and to lift the tranny tail over the car's nose as it comes out. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. I wish you lived close to me, I'd come over to help.
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You are WRONG. Out the top will never be as easy and damage free as out the bottom. When you remove it from the bottom you're not "pulling it"; you're leaving it set there while you pick an extremely light portion of the car up off of it.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
You are WRONG. Out the top will never be as easy and damage free as out the bottom. When you remove it from the bottom you're not "pulling it"; you're leaving it set there while you pick an extremely light portion of the car up off of it.
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100% correct sir. I know you've seen me preach the same thing, only to be tarred and feathered.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
You are WRONG. Out the top will never be as easy and damage free as out the bottom. When you remove it from the bottom you're not "pulling it"; you're leaving it set there while you pick an extremely light portion of the car up off of it.
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I wont argue. I guess I'm just a creature of habit. Maybe I'll force myself to try it like that one day, but I've never had a problem "Pulling". Although I must admit that every time the engine is perched high above the nose of the car, I say, "hydraulic seals, please don't fail now."
 
[QUOTE=" Although I must admit that every time the engine is perched high above the nose of the car, I say, "hydraulic seals, please don't fail now."[/QUOTE]

I think the same when the front of the car is 4 feet off the ground. But it’s really pretty light. I had to move my car and my son and I easily lifted the front by the bumper and rolled it around.

Hardest thing about taking it out from under is removing the torsion bars and the steering coupler. But once you’ve done it once the next time it’s easy. Reinstalling is a breeze
 
The steering coupler, the torsion bars, and upper control arms. I still can't see taking the front end off and not getting an alignment?
 
Im curious about alignment as well. If my build goes well im hoping to do a transplant in the spring.
j par said:
The steering coupler, the torsion bars, and upper control arms. I still can't see taking the front end off and not getting an alignment?
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I'm trying to wrap my head around the logistics?
My motor/tranny is out on a stand. My K-frame is out. (FYI- hoist=cherry picker)
Step#1 I connect motor hoist and lift motor/trans and put K-frame on and lower to the floor to an awaiting furniture cart somehow not allowing the 8q milodon pan to hit the ground or the cart?
Step#2 disconnect motor hoist from motor and transmission
Step#3 connect motor hoist to car and lift
Step#4 here's were things get fuzzy - somehow with the hoist legs completely in the way in my two car garage (with enough room for one car) get that motor/trans maneuver into the perfect position under the car.
Step#5 get torsion bars all back in there.
Step#6 reconnect upper A-arms.
Step#7 reconnect...
Hey after all this typing I'm starting to forget why I didn't just drop the motor in while I had it on the chain's at step one?
 
my engine/tranny was sitting on the dolly I made (and have reused) out of scrape 2x4’s. It literally took me by myself less than 15 minutes to have it in the car, k frame bolted in with headers already attached. I disconnect the upper control arms at the ball joint so alignment didnt change. Hour or 2 bolting up all the other stuff. This is one where’s there’s no wrong way to do it, if your comfortable coming in from above do it like that. I like hooking up the headers, power steering pump and as much as I can but I also have room in my garage to have it out in the open. Single car garage would definitely cramp things
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