engine specs

[93toyota]

need the deck height specs for all small block motors and all years. Same for the connecting rods. thanks for any help

 

[Mrmopartech]

Motor Bore Ctr. Size Bore Dk. Hgt. Stroke Main Jrnl. Rod Lgth. Rod Jrnl. Rod Wth. Max CD

Chrysler
poly “A”
1956-66 4.460 277 3.750 9.600 3.125 2.500 6.123 2.125 .937 1.914
301 3.910
303 3.8125 3.310 1.822
318 3.910
326 3.950
Chrysler
“LA” 1964-* 273 3.625
318 3.910
340 4.040
360 4.000 3.580 2.625 1.687

If you need more info email me at [email protected]

Mrmopartech :supz:

 

[93toyota]

rod with max cd?.......compression distance

 

[93toyota]

how about head cc specs? Also if I was to get a 4" cast crank and put it in a 360 with a stock block, what size pistons woul;d i need to get to get 9.5 comp-ratio with stock heads

 

[moper]

Any oversize that your block needs can be used. But to use factory heads, you'll need to stay with a flat top w/4" stroke design. If you went with Magnum or aftermarket heads with closed chambers, then a dished piston can be used. If I recall correctly, the factory spec for a "915" or J/X head is 68-72cc, but the ones I've seen and measured are 72-76ccs. Welcome to factory truth as opposed to specifications. Excellent package by the way (408ci). Ross has off the shelf numbers for this combo.

 

[93toyota]

what do you think are the power limits on cast parts(crank, pistons) and I beam rods?

 

[93toyota]

what would the comp. ratio be if I used the package with a flat top and had 72 cc heads?

 

[moper]

Using a quick guess of 6ccs for the valve pockets, and a typical Felpro gasket, it comes to 9.6:1 for a stock stroke and +.030 overbore. The mopar factory cast cranks are still pretty strong. I'd put a guestimate of 450 horsepower using lightweight pistons and having things competition balanced, plus having the main caps studded. The Mopar Performance cast 4" stroker crank can go a bit higher, there are several making over 550 with lighter weight rods and pistons. The lighter the weight swinging on it, and the better the prep, the higher amount of power it can take. You can always have it cryogenically treated too. As far as rods, the SIRs and cheape lines are slightly stronger than factory redo with good bolts. The heavier H beams, and higher priced I beams are much stronger (you get what you pay for). I've run stock rods on 340s with 175 NOS shots that made a real 530hp and had no failures. It has a lot to do with careful machining, and proper prep.

 

[mikesduster]

FWIW....the TRW piston with valve reliefs are 7.5 cc....

moper...wouldnt the H-beam rods be LIGHTER then the I-beam rods??

 

[93toyota]

it depends on who you buy them from. I have seen h beams at almost 800grams

 

[moper]

I think my Eagles (older set of RB length) are pretty heavy, but much stronger.