epoxy primer??

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silvadful

silvadful

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is this primer ok to use on metal before filler??.this is a 1 part.
is 2 part better?? any help appreciated.
 

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Depends,not familiar with that brand.Usually,a 3 part( primer,catalyst,reducer) is used in a good epoxy system.Might be different,where you are at.Call the supplier,ask lots of questions.A single 1 step epoxy,seems out of place to me.
 
yeah thanks.most the stuff read last cpl days says use 2 part so think go with that.
 
Never heard of it before. Usually Epoxy is 2 Part, Primer and Hardener. You mix the reducer in to use it as a sealer.
 
I think that is likely targeted to industrial use. A low pressure gun my not spray it.
Does the label state it could be applied with a brush straight from the can ?
We used a product something like that in the textile mill where steam caused rust.
 
RedFish said:
I think that is likely targeted to industrial use. A low pressure gun my not spray it.
Does the label state it could be applied with a brush straight from the can ?
We used a product something like that in the textile mill where steam caused rust.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. You have to be careful using some industrial coatings because they might have or not have the specific properties necessary for auto paint overcoat.
 
I can't comment on that particular primer. But I did recently research the topic of epoxy primer and whether to put the filler over bare metal or over epoxy primer. The consensus seems to be that it's better to epoxy prime first and if possible, apply the filler during the primer's re-coat window. Some car manufactures even require this to protect the warranty. Many production body shops don't do this because of the added time and cost and the filler manufacturers say it's not necessary. This very short article matches most of what I read on various message boards.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Epoxy_primer

My car will be going to media blast soon and I was thinking that I needed to hurry up and get the filler on it before the thing gets primed, otherwise I would need to grind off the epoxy every place I needed filler. Wrong! It's actually better to epoxy prime the whole thing first and then get the filler on it as quickly as possible after that. I will do my best to finish the metal work including hammer and dolly so that I can just fill without molesting the primer.

Back to the original thread. It does say this about 1-part epoxy primers:

"Real epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. The common epoxy paint you buy at the local hardware store in an aerosol can is not considered a true epoxy primer."
 
you need to read what the can of filler says. Most will say it can be used over primers. Some will say bare metal.
 
AdamR said:
you need to read what the can of filler says. Most will say it can be used over primers. Some will say bare metal.
Click to expand...

I bought Evercoat Z-Grip. I'll check the label tonight.

I did find this on the Evercoat website:

Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint? A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied.
 
RedFish said:
I think that is likely targeted to industrial use. A low pressure gun my not spray it.
Does the label state it could be applied with a brush straight from the can ?
We used a product something like that in the textile mill where steam caused rust.
Click to expand...

yes it does or thin down 10 percent to spray. so still not real clear but the overall seems to be no. so will get a 2 part epoxy primer.thanks for the link 65 dart that helped for sure. and thanks everyone else to.:) love this site
 
Go to autobody tool mart and get the kirker epoxy primer. Its good stuff and reasonably priced. Strip the car down to bare metal, coat it with epoxy primer and that will help prevent rust. Make sure you do all of the knocking out of big dents first or get it close when its stripped. Scuff it real good, do your filling, go over with filler primer or featherfill which is what i like to use, block out with 180 and repeat with the filler prime until body is nice and all sand scratches are for the most part gone before really perfecting things. They are a good company to buy stuff from. Matter of fact im calling them right now because i need some stuff that i just remembered.
 
cheers gt. i in little ol new zealand way on otha side o world so can get the stuff but different branding etc.been on local mopar site and got heads up now. all good. check out http://www.nzmoparforum.co.nz
but thanx to all for help.:cheers:
 
AdamR said:
you need to read what the can of filler says. Most will say it can be used over primers. Some will say bare metal.
Click to expand...

lol.read the filler can last night and need 2 part primer. shoulda done that 3 nights ago.haha:eek:ops::violent1::violent1:
 
DN or DP ? DP is the epoxy. DP is pretty good. The number at the end is just the color so any DP series primer will work.
 
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