Evans Coolant Temps

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Whatever AndyF is using in his Duster with the 512 stroker seems to be working just fine.
 
If you really read up on the Evans coolant you will learn it doesn’t transfer heat near as well as Water. Obviously you will need to have something for corrosion purposes hence we normally run a 50/50 mix of ethyl glycol and water as the glycol doesn’t transfer heat as well as water either. Since it doesn’t transfer heat as well you will need a cooling system that is more than up to the task than you would normally need with a water based liquid.
 
Mopar73340 said:
If you really read up on the Evans coolant you will learn it doesn’t transfer heat near as well as Water. Obviously you will need to have something for corrosion purposes hence we normally run a 50/50 mix of ethyl glycol and water as the glycol doesn’t transfer heat as well as water either. Since it doesn’t transfer heat as well you will need a cooling system that is more than up to the task than you would normally need with a water based liquid.
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Which is why I'm thinking of just dumping it and going back to regular old 50/50
 
I tried the Evans a couple years ago because a friend of mine started using it. I had also switched to an electric fan setup. Car had no problem running cool with the A/C on on a hot day prior to the switch. Not so afterward. Had to have the fan constantly running. Switched back and all is ok.
 
When I first installed my 408, I was having some doubts about the Evans Coolant I was running with as temps were in the 210* - 220* range. I made some other improvements to the cooling system - the shroud making the biggest difference and I have no cooling concerns whatsoever - pretty steady at 187*.

Lots of good suggestions above - in my experience, it's not the coolant.

Champion 3 row 22" rad, 18" 6 blade clutch fan, 180* Thermostat
 
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Unless I’m just horrible at searching for standard fans I can’t find a clutch fan that will fit my set up.

Dusterdenovo said:
When I first installed my 408, I was having some doubts about the Evans Coolant I was running with as temps were in the 210* - 220* range. I made some other improvements to the cooling system - the shroud making the biggest difference and I have no cooling concerns whatsoever - pretty steady at 187*.

Lots of good suggestions above - in my experience, it's not the coolant.

Champion 3 row 22" rad, 18" 6 blade clutch fan, 180* Thermostat
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If I had the room you do I wouldn’t have a problem running a clutch fan. But a 440 with a 4 core radiator means I have 2” of clearance between the rad and the water pump.
 
brian6pac said:
I have used these fans for 3 cars now and they are the best I have found, I used a flow meter and checked many different fans and the 3000 cfm advertised fans never pushed more than 1500 cfm. They told me there fans will push 2500 cfm or more and It measured at 2470 cfm.

CCI-1740 | Cooling Components
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3000 aint enough to cool a big stroker to start with !!
 
charger426 said:
Unless I’m just horrible at searching for standard fans I can’t find a clutch fan that will fit my set up.



If I had the room you do I wouldn’t have a problem running a clutch fan. But a 440 with a 4 core radiator means I have 2” of clearance between the rad and the water pump.
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Ditch the 4 core ,and install a 2 row 1 1/4'' tube radiator , the biggest u can get between the frame rails > more room for a mech. fan , more air flow thru the rad ...
 
Just got back from taking the car out for the first time. Got hot in the neighborhood 230, and cooled down to 200-205 after a mile or so on the highway at 50-55. BUT when I got home I discovered that my number 7 plug wire was pulled out from the sparkplug. Looks like the steering shaft caught the boot guards I had put on and ripped the wire off I'm assuming right at the start of the test run. I thought something sounded off but given this was the first time I had driven the car I still don't know all the different sounds and noises its going to make. Once this rain stops I'll take it back out hopefully on all 8 cylinders this time.
 
charger426 said:
Just got back from taking the car out for the first time. Got hot in the neighborhood 230, and cooled down to 200-205 after a mile or so on the highway at 50-55. BUT when I got home I discovered that my number 7 plug wire was pulled out from the sparkplug. Looks like the steering shaft caught the boot guards I had put on and ripped the wire off I'm assuming right at the start of the test run. I thought something sounded off but given this was the first time I had driven the car I still don't know all the different sounds and noises its going to make. Once this rain stops I'll take it back out hopefully on all 8 cylinders this time.
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In my book those temps are to high.
What was the ambient temp?
Plug wire wont make a bid difference.
 
512Stroker said:
In my book those temps are to high.
What was the ambient temp?
Plug wire wont make a bid difference.
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Agree on temps being to high hence the thread :).
50s with cold ran going over the rad. So pretty much best case and it didn't cool down to the 180 thermostat temp
 
charger426 said:
Agree on temps being to high hence the thread :).
50s with cold ran going over the rad. So pretty much best case and it didn't cool down to the 180 thermostat temp
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Well like stated on your thread before your cooling system is too small.
If it will not cool down to the thermostat while driving down the highway - your radiator does not have a enough cooling capacity.
If it cools going down the highway but gets hot when you slow down or at idle - your fan is not moving enough air.
Contact the folks at Griffin.
This will not be $cheap.
Buy american
 
512Stroker said:
Well like stated on your thread before your cooling system is too small.
If it will not cool down to the thermostat while driving down the highway - your radiator does not have a enough cooling capacity.
If it cools going down the highway but gets hot when you slow down or at idle - your fan is not moving enough air.
Contact the folks at Griffin.
This will not be $cheap.
Buy american
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Yeah as much as I'm not liking the idea of spending like a grand on a new rad its looking like I'll have too.... I'll look at griffin, have talked to US Radiators as well.

Edit: Just looked at griffin and they don't offer a radiator for my application. I need a passenger side inlet (top) and driver side outlet (bottom).
 
There are plenty of options that won't end up costing a grand. As mentioned - look at what AndyF runs for a cooling system.
 
charger426 said:
Yeah as much as I'm not liking the idea of spending like a grand on a new rad its looking like I'll have too.... I'll look at griffin, have talked to US Radiators as well.
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One last thing.
You my wont to check to see if the water pump impeller is not spinning on the shaft.
I had a brand new Milodon water pump that the impeller was a loose fit and was actually not spinning at the belt driven shaft speed. Took me 2 months to find it.
 
mopowers said:
There are plenty of options that won't end up costing a grand. As mentioned - look at what AndyF runs for a cooling system.
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I must suck at finding his stuff because when I use the search function I can never find the topic I need. He's done a lot of work and its hard to find the needle of info I need for a certain job when its needed. Don't get me wrong great information just hard to find the topic I need help when its needed.
 
First of all I want to thank "512Stroker" for sharing your experience . I learned a lot . I am experiencing the same issues with my 383 scamp . After 5 minutes of running the temps go to 220-230 . these engines were never intended to operate at these temps and I don't want to cook my motor . I am thinking that my oem radiator doesn't have enough volume to cool properly . so I went on a search . Every vendor wants to sell you a radiator but won't give out the overall dimentions . Or don't know what they are or …. I am of the opinion that (2) 1 1/4 or (2) 1 1/2" cores will do the trick . The question of bolting it in is the big issue . I'M not hacking up my finished car just to get a rad to fit . Again , thanks 512Stroker
 
383Scampman said:
First of all I want to thank "512Stroker" for sharing your experience . I learned a lot . I am experiencing the same issues with my 383 scamp . After 5 minutes of running the temps go to 220-230 . these engines were never intended to operate at these temps and I don't want to cook my motor . I am thinking that my oem radiator doesn't have enough volume to cool properly . so I went on a search . Every vendor wants to sell you a radiator but won't give out the overall dimentions . Or don't know what they are or …. I am of the opinion that (2) 1 1/4 or (2) 1 1/2" cores will do the trick . The question of bolting it in is the big issue . I'M not hacking up my finished car just to get a rad to fit . Again , thanks 512Stroker
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Griffin "Exact fit" radiators.
Call them they will email you a drawing of the radiator
 
383Scampman said:
First of all I want to thank "512Stroker" for sharing your experience . I learned a lot . I am experiencing the same issues with my 383 scamp . After 5 minutes of running the temps go to 220-230 . these engines were never intended to operate at these temps and I don't want to cook my motor . I am thinking that my oem radiator doesn't have enough volume to cool properly . so I went on a search . Every vendor wants to sell you a radiator but won't give out the overall dimentions . Or don't know what they are or …. I am of the opinion that (2) 1 1/4 or (2) 1 1/2" cores will do the trick . The question of bolting it in is the big issue . I'M not hacking up my finished car just to get a rad to fit . Again , thanks 512Stroker
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Yeah this ain't my first rodeo.
I have been fighting cooling issues for 25 years.
Big engines need big cooling and alot of air.
You will need to run a recovery tank to keep the radiator full.
Good luck
 
As I stated earlier the cooling system must be much more efficient or oversized compared to stock to use a less efficient heat transfer medium (Evans) than the water based liquid it was designed for. If it’s not transferring the heat into the air as effectively as water based coolant you can be sure it’s not absorbing the heat as effectively inside the water jackets inside the engine and those temperatures are higher than with a more efficient heat transfer medium.

Something else to think about when changing to electrical fans, all of our older cars weren’t designed like the cars produced in the last dozen or so years with air dams and such to create negative pressure behind the radiator or direct airflow through the radiator. The mechanical fan was there and created the negative pressure or the pulling effect to cause the airflow through the radiator while moving down the road especially at lower speeds.

With these two changes you have greatly reduced the efficiency of the cooling system.
 
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