EVAPO-RUST Long Sender Parts.

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Dana67Dart

Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this but...

I scored some parts from a wrecking yard that is expected to be scraped in 3 months.

I got the entire latch assy from a 67-69 barracuda folding seat

I got the knob, lever, rods, square rod, center lever part the rod attaches to, and one of the 2 end cams that I reproduce, plus 2 of the 3 plastic bushings. (BTW, I'll be reproducing the center lever soon)

The square rod has a bunch of surface rust to the point the center lever could not slide off.

PXL_20250201_230832771.jpg

PXL_20250201_230846696.jpg



Not to worry, EVAPO-RUST to the rescue.

But how to cover the rod. Could use towels and plastic to wrap it and check it often to make sure it stays wet.


OR...

PVC tube with end caps!

2" PVC about 4' long took just under 1 gallon of EVAPO-RUST

PXL_20250201_231404589.jpg


I have a plan for tube Rev 2

Glue on plastic reducer on the bottom with a screw on ball valve about 1/2 or 3/4"

Basically small enough to fit into the opening of the 1 gallon jug.

That way it can empty the liquid right back into the jug!

No fuss!
 
That'll work good and you'll be able to reuse the evaporust. There's a cheaper way. Mix 1.5 cups of molasses into a gallon of water or a 10 to 1 mix. Works just like evaporust in that it uses a chelating process to remove rust safely without damaging metals. I have a 30 gallon tub for de-rusting parts. Cost me about $6 dollars (3 gallons) of molasses from the bulk animal feed store and 30 gallons of water from the tap. Works awesome.
 
Dana67Dart said:
I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this but...

I scored some parts from a wrecking yard that is expected to be scraped in 3 months.

I got the entire latch assy from a 67-69 barracuda folding seat

I got the knob, lever, rods, square rod, center lever part the rod attaches to, and one of the 2 end cams that I reproduce, plus 2 of the 3 plastic bushings. (BTW, I'll be reproducing the center lever soon)

The square rod has a bunch of surface rust to the point the center lever could not slide off.

View attachment 1716360736
View attachment 1716360737


Not to worry, EVAPO-RUST to the rescue.

But how to cover the rod. Could use towels and plastic to wrap it and check it often to make sure it stays wet.


OR...

PVC tube with end caps!

2" PVC about 4' long took just under 1 gallon of EVAPO-RUST

View attachment 1716360738

I have a plan for tube Rev 2

Glue on plastic reducer on the bottom with a screw on ball valve about 1/2 or 3/4"

Basically small enough to fit into the opening of the 1 gallon jug.

That way it can empty the liquid right back into the jug!

No fuss!
Click to expand...
Love it. The tube method also works great to soak steel in a muriatic acid solution to remove mill scale.
 
Update...

3 days of soaking in well used Evap-o-Rust

The Lever is as it came out only 2 days on that, no additional post processing

The rod I wire wheeled lightly.

All in all I'm happy!
1738795393656.png
 
sam69sat said:
Mix 1.5 cups of molasses into a gallon of water
Click to expand...
I have 2 rusty bolts from the same car I'm going to give your recipe a try.


Evapo-Rust will be on the left, 1.5 cups of molasses to 1 gallon of water on the right unless otherwise noted.


The EVAPO-RUST bolt has some brown paint on the short end so close-ups will be of the long end only.


Before soaking.

PXL_20250205_231419722.jpg

PXL_20250205_231413995.jpg




The EVAPO-RUST is more gray in color. But I'm impressed by the molasses!

Both have been rinsed off.



After 1 hr
PXL_20250206_002725437.jpg



It was neck and neck at one hour. But its EVAPO-RUST in the lead

4 hours
PXL_20250206_033544575.jpg


Looks like EVAPO-RUST is in the home stretch.

I must say I'm impressed with the molasses, and it smells good!


16 hours
PXL_20250206_151918605.jpg


I'm going to stop the EVAPO-RUST but let the molasses continue.

40 hours in molasses mix. A slight improvement.
PXL_20250207_154938521.jpg



64 hours, still more improvement.
PXL_20250209_015207944.jpg



85 hours, I don't see any further change.
I'm going to stop now.
Seems like a great way to CHEAPLY get most of the rust off the use evaporust and will prolong the Evapo-Rust
PXL_20250209_232303102.jpg


This is after 12 hours of VERY used EVAPO-RUST
PXL_20250210_155841042.jpg
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
I have 2 rusty bolts from the same car I'm going to give your recipe a try.


Evapo-Rust will be on the left, 1.5 cups of molasses to 1 gallon of water on the right unless otherwise noted.


The EVAPO-RUST bolt has some brown paint on the short end so close-ups will be of the long end only.


Before soaking.

View attachment 1716362330
View attachment 1716362331



After 1 hr.
View attachment 1716362332View attachment 1716362334

Both have been rinsed off.

The EVAPO-RUST is more gray in color. But I'm impressed by the molasses!

View attachment 1716362333
Click to expand...

1 hour? That's fast! I usually leave them in for at least a couple days in the molasses or a week or two for more rusty parts.
 
4 hour update in post 6

16 hour update in post 6

40 hour update in post 6

64 & 85 hour update in post 6
 
Last edited:

I throw small parts like screws, nuts, and washers in a glass jar with Evaporust for a week. Move to a yogurt tub and shake in hot water w/ soap many times until they water comes out clear. The parts rub loose stuff off each other, like a rock tumbler. Then put in a jar of Phosphoric Acid (Concrete/Metal Etch at Home Depot) for several days to convert any remaining rust pits into hard black (iron phosphate?), then rinse, dry well and paint with spray lacquer. Hardest part is finding where they all go back. Be careful with thin spring metal, like from door latches since if too rusty it might disintegrate.

Large parts I wrap in rags soaked with phosphoric acid, wrapped in plastic. Often the rust bubbles into hard black which gets embedded in the cloth so have to scrape and wire-brush clean. Some metals turn purty colors like a blue or green tint. Restored my Valiant convertible top header parts that way.
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this but...

I scored some parts from a wrecking yard that is expected to be scraped in 3 months.

I got the entire latch assy from a 67-69 barracuda folding seat

I got the knob, lever, rods, square rod, center lever part the rod attaches to, and one of the 2 end cams that I reproduce, plus 2 of the 3 plastic bushings. (BTW, I'll be reproducing the center lever soon)

The square rod has a bunch of surface rust to the point the center lever could not slide off.

View attachment 1716360736
View attachment 1716360737


Not to worry, EVAPO-RUST to the rescue.

But how to cover the rod. Could use towels and plastic to wrap it and check it often to make sure it stays wet.


OR...

PVC tube with end caps!

2" PVC about 4' long took just under 1 gallon of EVAPO-RUST

View attachment 1716360738

I have a plan for tube Rev 2

Glue on plastic reducer on the bottom with a screw on ball valve about 1/2 or 3/4"

Basically small enough to fit into the opening of the 1 gallon jug.

That way it can empty the liquid right back into the jug!

No fuss!
Click to expand...
Just in the nick of time @Dana67Dart . I just made up a section of 4" to soak a drive shaft. After a day....So far so good. Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
 
Check it after for liquid getting inside

The welds might not be completely water tight.

Most likely not an issue but worth checking
 
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