Experimenting with ignition caps

[67Dart273]

I recently bought 2 more old OMC outboards, a 55 5 1/2HP and a 55 10HP. They need "the usual suspects." For ignition this means plug wires although for now I'm leaving the old until I evaluate the motors, new points although those are the old ones--filed and dressed, until evaluation

And they needed new coils and condensers. These are "orange drop" poly caps which I had a few off in the right cap. range, .25ufd

The one set of condensers, sawed the tops off, and the guts fell right out. So I just drilled a hole in the bottom, fed the cap lead in through the hole, and soldered it for the ground. Then pumped some hot glue into the "tub" to hold it in place

The second set were "tarred?" inside and could not get the guts out of the tube, so I heated them with an LP torch. I thought the brackets were spot welded but they were soldered so they fell apart. At first I thought I'd solder the tubes back onto the brackets, but instead, I bent on cap lead around the bracket and soldered it for the ground, then just heat shrinked the cap to the bracket.

"We'll see.............."

 

[67Dart273]

By the way those coils are egag crap junk China crap junk junk low output junk.

 

[Super-Cuda]

I'm watching to see how you convert them to electronic ignition! If anyone's up to it , its you.LOL!!

 

[67Dart273]

I'm watching to see how you convert them to electronic ignition! If anyone's up to it , its you.LOL!!

That might not be so tuff if you relied on battery power, but most (all?) the outboards I / will use have no charging system, even if electric start. So getting one "up" that uses no battery power is a trick. You need a "charging coil" which is essentially a damn poor magneto alternator, to provide power, and of course a trigger. Adapting the later electronics might be doable, but those are expensive, even if you buy aftermarket.

I already had to replace the 76 35hp electronics they were near a hundred just for the box. On top of that you have a coil for each cylinder, the trigger coil and charge coil, and you'd have to adapt all that.

For the few hours a year I run these, it could get expensive.

 

[brian6pac]

When I was a kid my friend got this old outboard motor, his neighbor told us we could put it in a 55 gal barrel full of water and we could run it and it would not overheat. So we did that, after a couple times on taking the flywheel off and filing the points and trying to set them we got it to run. Full throttle and it emptied the barrel in about a second. Now we are both standing there soaking wet and his neighbor heard it fire so he came out looked at us and broke out in laughter and when he caught his breath he said (you have to take the prop off ). I always learned the hard way. LOL

 

[67Dart273]

^^the test of the 75hp^^ LOLOL

The reason for the surging is that the prop throws all the water up, then it tumbles back in (some of it) and grabs the prop again. that model has a small high speed prop and lower gearbox, as opposed to say, the 50hp which has a huge "tractor" prop and gearbox. The 50 lower unit will not fit into the barrel



Which is why I bought this monster, and it STILL is not "done"
Del buys a test tank....a REAL test tank...a STAINLESS...a HUGE
']

For any outboard, "back in the day" you could buy "test props" or "test wheels" which are a "sort of a prop" designed to load the engine without throwing too much water.

I guess for the larger stuff like the 35-40's and the 75 I should find one. You can them them from time to time on ebay

 

[mopar head]

Thanks Dell, I laughed my *** off.
Now to go find my ***