All a RP valve would do for me is to eliminate the double pump which is necessary when the piston pulls into the caliper. Thing is I don't have to do a double pump, which means the piston isn't retracting into the caliper.
A RP has no effect on brake bias as you are claiming.
'
Apparently you do since you have changed front pads twice in a 60/40 system,
Off roading is like running the pads thru a grinder. When I used to go in NJ I would be lucky to get 7k on a set of pads thanks to all the slop in the Pine Barrens.....Apparently you are completely clueless as you have no real idea just how worn, or not worn my rear pads were when I decided to replace them. You also have no idea what caused the rear pads to get to the point that I felt they needed to be replaced.
140,000 miles in 20 years. Fourwheeled in 10 states, in mud, snow, rock, sand, you name it... Crap gets run past the pads, scoring them deeply. They were replaced long before they actually wore out from stop and go driving.
Apparently you are completely clueless as you have no real idea just how worn, or not worn my rear pads were when I decided to replace them.
Supershafts said:in 100k you have changed rear pads how many times ?
ab7fh said:Changed the front pads twice. Still on the same rears.
The truck stops very, very, well.
This is what you said when asked , and how we are at YOUR 60/40 system not working correctly, lets stay with the facts you gave, and not add anything that wasn't already known. the above is not getting any relevance
We now have to refresh memory so i'll start all over and use quotes so no one is misunderstood......
Then i asked
This was asked because a proper brake system on 60/40 or even 70/30 doesn't go thru multiple front brake changes and no rears.
Apparently i do know very well how your rear pads are wearing since You told me... TWICE on the front ZERO at the back
All i have pointed out is you changed the front pads twice in a 60/40 or even 70/30 and think thats normal and it is not, you have a brake problem believe it or not.
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you have a brake problem believe it or not.
I am by no means an expert, and I am not trying to fan the flames, but could both of you (ab7fh & supershafts) be right? If the brakes are designed to go xxxxmiles on an a-body and the same on an xploder, thats assuming that they are both rated the same, the exloder weighes probably 20-25% more than an a-body. That being said, would the rear brakes not last 20-25% longer on an abody? They would not have to do the same amount of work on a lighter vehicle either, may not work as hard as they were intended on the originally designed for vehicle, but if they did, might cause rear lockup on a lighter vehicle. I dont honestly know if this is the case or not, but would love to hear others thoughts on this. This is the reason I went to a drum brake 8.8, being that they are both 10" drums I figured that it would be an easier swap with existing brake hydraulics on the car.
Rick
So if putting a disc explorer diff in, how would you figure out what master cylinder would work with factory front disc/ explorer rear disc? Would 2# RV on rear be adequate to hold pads to rotor without causing excess drag? Thanks for all the info, greatly appreciated.
Wilwood two pound residual pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in both disc and drum brake systems. The two pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration, thereby causing excessive caliper piston retraction and a longer brake pedal stroke. The minimal two pound residual pressure prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag.
So what was this thread about again? Brakes?
is it sad that i have long since stopped checking my own thread?
never did get any pictures of what i was looking for, but hopefully will when one poster comes back from out of country. that will tell me what i need to know.
michael
the questions i have are:
1. any pictures of it done this way? I'm concerned about clearance with my TTI 3 inch exhaust.
2. what have people done with the master and proportioning system to account for the rear discs?
3. how have you been hooking up the e-brake?
4. how quiet is it?
5. what have you done to hook that funky plate to our mopar drive shafts?
6. will my drive shaft need to be shortened?
7. what am i looking at as far as the hydraulics are concerned?
8. anything I'm not thinking of?