Eye candy in the works......

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Rick@Laysons

FABO Vendor
FABO Vendor
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What's under the shiny air cleaner??????

Enjoy!!!! :thumbsup:

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Right now......this is a work that is still in process....but coming along nicely.

It will be installed on a brand new rebuilt 225 slant six. The engine will be initially fired and the camshaft broke in with a standard one barrell carb. Once the cam is broke in, the swap to the EFI unit will happen.

There's been a fair amount of fab work that's been done for this set-up so far, such as the accelerator pedal set-up, throttle cable linkage, making/modifying some of the bracketry, sorting out the kick-down linkages, and figuring out all of the wiring and plumbing.

When it's all done and running, I'll be posting up more info.
 
is this the 1bbl autolite 1100? or a BBD kit with a super 6 manifold? my dream if I win the lottery is an aussie hurricane 2bbl intake with the holley 2300 kit....
 
I'm guessing those are the wires to run the EFI..

Interested in your results. I have a 225 in my 64 D100 that would love to try EFI setup.
 
Are you planning to do anything to check the fuel distribution? I've wondered how it compares to a carb.
being TBI, I wouldn't think it would be really any different than a carb. MPFI with injectors pointed into the intake ports (or back of the valve if you can get there) would alleviate any potential fuel distribution issues stemming from the unequal runner lengths.
 
Question, what is with the loom and plug wire routing?
Those are the temp sensor feed wires, O2 sensor, power feed wires, video feed wires back to monitor mounted on dash, and wires connected to control unit.

Note the O2 sensor is conveniently located into an existing threaded hole right down by the heat riser on the exhaust manifold.

The temp sensor will be located in an existing water jacket plug towards the back of the block using a wiring extension instead of drilling and mounting it in the thermostat housing.

Trying to keep things as simple and straight-forward as we can.
 

Note the O2 sensor is conveniently located into an existing threaded hole right down by the heat riser on the exhaust manifold.

The temp sensor will be located in an existing water jacket plug towards the back of the block using a wiring extension instead of drilling and mounting it in the thermostat housing.
The location for the O2 sensor is fine. The temp sensor should be located at the front of the head. At the back of the block it will not have a good temp reading. The temp would be lower that at the front of the head. If in the "T"-stat housing, it will not have a correct reading untill the T-stat is open, and there is water flow.
What thread is on the temp sensor? What year head are you using? Most heads will have a place to locate a temp sensor.
 
Those are some of the details still being worked out.....not sure on the thread size on the temp sensor, or the casting# of the head

However, per phone conversation with Holley Tech, they said the location for the temp sensor should be just fine....as the block would be warm before the thermostat opens up.
 
Those are some of the details still being worked out.....not sure on the thread size on the temp sensor, or the casting# of the head

However, per phone conversation with Holley Tech, they said the location for the temp sensor should be just fine....as the block would be warm before the thermostat opens up.
I am not real up to date on EFI, but I question the holley tech. The temp sensor has a effect on the air/fuel ratio. At a cooler temp the mixture is richer (think partial choke) as the engine warms up the temp sensor tells the ECM to lean the mixture. The water flow in a slant six is from the water pump to the front of the block thru the block to the rear and then up tru the back of the head and toward the front of the head. If the T-stat is closed (cold/cool engine) there will be minimal water flow in the block/head. Just from the bypass and heater hoses. Since the combustion chambers are the hottest point in the engine. the water in the head will be quite a bit hotter than in the block. Even with the T- stat open the water temp in the head is quite a bit warmer than in the block. It should be easy to install the temp sensor at the front of the head.
PS: There is some water flow up from the block to the head thru the smaller holes in the deck.
 
Well.....I guess that could be one of the issues to address once the cam break-in is done and the swap takes place....just have to wait and see on that....
 
I have not tried to put multiple temperature sensors on a slant six at once, but now you have me tempted to try it. I currently have the EFI temp sensor just upstream of the thermostat next to the gauge sending unit.

Sometimes a carb to manifold mismatch can cause fuel distribution issues, and so I would be interested in seeing how these two work together.
 
I have not tried to put multiple temperature sensors on a slant six at once, but now you have me tempted to try it. I currently have the EFI temp sensor just upstream of the thermostat next to the gauge sending unit.
In my opinion, that's the best place for it. I really don't think there is any problem to locate a EFI sensor there. Most "newer" heads have a provision for another sensor at the upper front of the head. On the "older" heads that don't have multiple threaded ports, there is usually a place where you can drill and tap for the sensor.
 
I put the same 2gc sniper on my 37 Packard. Had to build an adapter though. Packard manifold is a D bore not square like the 2gc. Made a huge difference in driving and power.
 
Late...late...update......

The engine has been broken in and running just fine on the carb.

The swap over to the Sniper is all done. The cars runs and idles very nicely, however....there's still a lot of "learning" to yet be done by the computer/controller. Just have to get the time to get it on the street for some "real world" driving for that to get done...

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