Factory AC Dash Removal

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Dana67Dart

Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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Hi all

This 67 dart convert is my first Factory AC car.

I want to remove the entire dash as a unit.

I expect I will need to remove the registers attached to the bottom of the dash frame first.

Any and all advice is welcome.

There is no refrigerant in the system or coolant lines from the firewall Forward.

I will be pulling the steering column 1st no matter what.

Thanks in advance.
 
Remove front seat(s), diffuser, undo ac/heater cables. You may have to go in thru glove box to undo cables and speaker wires. Be very careful of ac vacuum lines where they connect to push button switch in dash. Those switches are very hard to find and costly.
Obviously a 2nd person is needed.
Also windshield will have to come out 1st to be able to remove screws on top of dash.
All bulkhead connections.
When time comes, use axle stands to allow dash to "roll forward/down" to rest on.
 
No front seats

Check

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No windshield

Check

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glovebox out

Check

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Firewall stripped

Check

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Actually this can be done without removing windshield. Use a small air cutoff grinder to cut screws and clips, but anyhow

There are two I think 1/4 studs or bolts below dash into each kick panel area. My recollection is you can loosen them to the point of just being started. I think those are slotted,and not holes, so you can lift the frame up a bit when ready and pull it off those bolts

I'm pretty sure you either need or that it's an advantage to pull the pedal support bracket/ column support.

I would absolutely reverse the clips and install the screws along the windshield from the bottom. I don't remember for sure if I used shorter screws but that is my memory
 
to remove the 3 vent assembly under the dash look for 2 holes under the assembly. Each one is between 2 of the vents. Holes are big enough for your socket to reach nuts on the end of 2 studs. The studs are attached to the dash frame. 2 nuts out and the assembly pulls out of the square hole in the A/C - heater box.
 
str12-340 said:
to remove the 3 vent assembly under the dash look for 2 holes under the assembly. Each one is between 2 of the vents. Holes are big enough for your socket to reach nuts on the end of 2 studs. The studs are attached to the dash frame. 2 nuts out and the assembly pulls out of the square hole in the A/C - heater box
Click to expand...
Is there anything that is particularly sensitive, like the vacuum switch with the box itself
 
I got the 3 vent assy out and 1/2 pound of dirt


@str12-340 thanks for the heads up on the 2 nuts.
 
One the right side of your box, the is a j bolt up from the bottom.. It pulls the box up tight. If you open the fresh air door, you can see it running from the top to the bottom.. bolt head is on the bottom
 
Next question...

Will the dash come out with the heater / AC attached to the firewall?

I know there are cables and vacuum lines that will need to be disconnected at some point.
 
I don't know why it would not. I guess you realize this is easier with TWO of you!!
 
I left the dash frame in when I did my factory air conversion on my 69 cuda. The Heater / AC box is attached to the firewall. It is pretty easy to remove once it is unhooked. I used Brady markers on all the vacuum lines when I unhooked them.

I would pull the glove box and loosen instrument cluster so you can get the vacuum switch out first. It is easy to break.
 
Yep ac can stay put(thankfully) once cables/lines unhooked. I removed mine by myself, awkward but doable. Use jackstands as I mentioned and let dash roll down/fwd.
 
as above, you can remove the screws at the edge of the windshield, loosen the bolts at the sides and use them as a pivot to rotate it out. I would leave the dash harness connected to the dash take out the bulkhead connector and remove it all together. This is the time to replace or repair the wiring under the dash, including looking ahead and installing any extra wires that you would need for any accessories you might want. You can wire things directly to the fuse box and eliminate any rats nests of wire from the past. It is SOOO easy to do all this with the dash out. One recommendation - there is a metal clip on the back of the speedo that attaches to a white plastic loop on the harness . If you might ever want remove the instrument cluster DO NOT attach the harness to that clip (see below). If you are going to repaint your dash frame, the last time I did a dash I painted the inside of the dash frame gloss white - it sure makes it easier when you have to do things under the dash in the future because light reflects around under there and the color contract makes it much easier to see things.

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That clip is just above the speedo cable snout - I installed everything and then had a gauge failure and had to remove the cluster and it was a bear. I'm sure it made things easier in the factory installing the harness on a bench like this, but it serves no function once it is all in place.
 
when I was working under my dash in the car I fished strip lights sound underneath. Lit it up really well. Made it a much easier job
 
str12-340 said:
That clip is just above the speedo cable snout
Click to expand...
I am VERY aware of that clip.

:mob:

It's super easy to remove as long as the plastic loop does not get hooked on it.

I spent 1/2 hours messing with it till I went and looked at a spare cluster and saw how the plastic goes on and thus comes off.

big screwdriver and it popped off in 10 seconds.

There is one thing I think I would do is make extensions for the alternator ammeter. Get a screw lug dual terminal block mount it safely under the dash and add the extension wires to the cluster then to it.

On top of that the Convertible top power wire attaches to one of the posts on the ammeter.


So my plan at this point is:

  1. Pull the steering column
  2. Pull the brake pedal assy
  3. Pull the bulkhead connector from the firewall
  4. Disconnect and unroute any wires going to the left and right kick panels
  5. Remove most of the bolts at the top of the dash
  6. Loosen the two side stud nuts
  7. Get some bracing ready
  8. Remove the last few upper bolts
  9. Rotate the dash away from the car up against the bracing
  10. Disconnect any wires and cables and hoses being carefully not to damage the multi function vacuum switch
  11. then have my daughter help lift the dash out of the car to stands

the future of the dash is a OE correct rattle can (or better) restoration.

I will have to get the bezels redone. I have 2 NOS heater only GT heater radio bezels but this being an AC car I'm kind of stuck (figures!)

after the dash is out the AC / heater comes out and the wiper assy.

then the car will be 98% ready for the dipper if I go that route.


WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MY SELF INTO!
 
Is there a particular reason that you are removing the brake pedal assembly? I think it can stay in place just like the heater box...
 
It has to come out sooner or later.

Right now it's only being held in by the dash.

Regardless if I dip the car or not it has dust in places that dust can't get to so every part of the car has to come off and be cleaned.

I'm up to 70 lbs of dust so far
 
have you removed the front fenders and collected all of the stuff in there and fished all the crap out of the cowl through the drain holes?

My worst nightmare on my last build was the slots on either side of the trunk floor extensions. The car's last owner was a family with small children, and a 70 Dart GT was their daily driver. Crayons, school papers, kids art markers, a couple packs of Doublemint chewing gum, remnants of unidentified school lunches, etc. etc. etc... When I replaced the trunk mat I cut my own and ended all that.

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DSC01347.JPG
 
str12-340 said:
My worst nightmare on my last build was the slots on either side of the trunk floor extensions
Click to expand...
I have vacuumed out every crevice I can get to. I just found the rocker body plugs in the front of the A pillers so we will see what's in there.

The area between the quarter skin and the wheel well is going to be a bugger.

I'll have to clime into the trunk to get close enough.

What I really need to do is invert the car and get an industrial vibrator (keep it clean) and vibrate the **** out of the car.

Bet I get another 30 lbs of dirt out.

I would love to dip the car then decide what to do.
 
There are 2 big body plugs with drains on the sheet metal that forms the "inside" of that crevice (side toward the frame). I spent a bunch of time with a device made from a coat hanger dragging stuff out after getting what I could from the top.
 
what would you you dip the body in??? (this is a real question!)
 
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