Fake woodgrain trim removal

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Bigmacdak

I'll take the Duster.....
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My 72 parts car has a near mint ( minus dash pad) dash with the fake wood grain trim in it. I would like to take the fake wood grain trim out of the car. Im starting alot of cutting work ect. ect. inside the car & I want to put it up in a safe place. How does this stuff come off? Im not worried about being on my back working under the dash, but what do the clips/retainers look like? What am I looking for? Anyone got any pics??
partscar003.jpg

Thanks for the help, bigmac.8)
 
man ur dash is EFFED UP!! i need new woodgrain trim for my car. but i might just paint it red to match the car kinda like a Dart Sport hang ten sorta thing
 
I am doing the opposite trying to install the trim where there was none. There are 8 speed nuts on the back to the trim then two nuts that go through the heater controls and two that hold the radio in. Best to remove the glove box and the dash pad (it has 4 speed nuts and two screws down at the bottom corners). That lets to see the back of the dash easier.

On the trim there are three nuts down each side then two more along the top edge..If I remember they are 1/2 socket. I had to drill holes for mine but they are off by just a bit and now the glove box door won't line up....argh...going to have to oblong the holes to see if I can get a bit of adjustment...fun fun...hope that helps.
 
Glove box just unscrews from the back......self explanatory when you look close.

The Gauge bezel unscrews as well...BUT, to save from cracking the bottom edge by the steering column, go under the column and loosen the retaining bolts, and lower the column about an inch....if you don't, you will likely break the plastic trying to get it out......

BUT the radio bezel has 2 nuts on the BACK, that tighten to 2 studs on the bezel itself......Go up under the ashtray area and you'll be able to feel the studs and nuts.....when those 2 are removed, the bezel pops off. (after you remove the radio knobs and nuts, that is).

Be careful, and it's a breeze. (a stiff breeze) :-D
 
If you dont have a shop manual as guide for removing the instrument panel I can give the jest of how I do it. No guarentee I wont forget something.
 
Ok guys thanks for the info. The dash pad looks like its been to hell & back, but the rest of the dash is in really good shape. No rust from leaks, no drill holes or anything like that. Even the cluster is bright & clear! Im going to take my time & go very easy with it.

RedFish, shoot away with the jest of it! I have two of them to take out, so I might as well get started....
 
The instrument cluster was originally covered via vacuform with a chrome looking material, usually aluminum. The "wood grain" is formed into the plastic and painted with a brown paint. It is really cheesy looking with the paint starts to separate the from the plating.

If you try to sand the grain off, you'll usually hit white plastic. I've never tried to remove the chrome. In addition to the decorative role, it also functions as a light barrier so that the instrument lights come out the instruments, and not make the dash glow wierdly. (Although that may work for you.)

The instrument cluster on the Demon was in very rough shape. Am attaching photos.

42_1.JPG


DSCN1847.jpg


Dash_small.JPG
 
The instrument cluster was originally covered via vacuform with a chrome looking material, usually aluminum. The "wood grain" is formed into the plastic and painted with a brown paint. It is really cheesy looking with the paint starts to separate the from the plating.

If you try to sand the grain off, you'll usually hit white plastic. I've never tried to remove the chrome. In addition to the decorative role, it also functions as a light barrier so that the instrument lights come out the instruments, and not make the dash glow wierdly. (Although that may work for you.)

The instrument cluster on the Demon was in very rough shape. Am attaching photos.

Awwww ... machine-turned prism applique! :supz:

That's close to the factory machine-turned overlay in my AMX Javelin.
 
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