Fan shroud that will fit this radiator?

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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I've been searching high and low for a fan shroud that will fit this radiator and I have come up empty handed. I believe it is a 22" radiator. Does anyone have some advice?

IMG_4520.JPG
 
I did a little More investigating today. It's a Chinese radiator from a company calle radicon. It measures 30" from outside of each flange. Width of actual coil surface area is 25.5" and height from bottom radiator to top is 21". I'll attach a photo of item brand and number just for fun.

IMG_4525.JPG
 
Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
What are your engine timings? Retarded timing makes heat.
Carb sucking hot underhood air makes heat.
Pumping hot exhaust thru skinny pipes and restrictive 3-pass mufflers makes heat.
Overheating automatic tranny makes heat.As does a cheap loose TC.

The point is this; the fan shroud is not the first, in the line of defense, to cure an overheat. Eliminating factors that contribute to it in the first place is. Doogie, I read your posts all the time, and I know you are a smart fella, so I imagine you know most, maybe even all of these things, and maybe some even that I have not thought of. And maybe you don't have an overheat issue at all, but just want a shroud because you well, just want a shroud. Fair enough, I get that, but man; you just gotta do something about that fuel line! No disrespect meant.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
Click to expand...

I actually typed up a response to this then just deleted it all. Thanks for the help on the fan shroud.
 
Doogie, I'd send you mine cuz I cured my heating issues over a decade ago, but then I'd just have to come over and steal it back, cuz, well, I just like it there to keep my fingers out of the 7-blade fan.lol
again, no disrespect meant.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Doogie, I'd send you mine cuz I cured my heating issues over a decade ago, but then I'd just have to come over and steal it back, cuz, well, I just like it there to keep my fingers out of the 7-blade fan.lol
again, no disrespect meant.
Click to expand...

That other comment sounded like it came from someone who had a bad day. That picture is from a while ago before installing russel twist lock hose from the tank to the carburetor. The alternator could be messed up but it has been running like that for 8 years now without an issue. I need to get a pcv valve still and I am not sure about the device you mentioned about being on the water pump.

I believe it is overheating and the gauge is not registering it so that is another issue but hopefully one I can tackle on my own. I'm going to buy a temp gun to be certain before touching anything though.
 
No, I wasn't trying to run down your set-up at all. I just saw what I saw and it worried me.
The IR gun is a great tool; once you have one, you suddenly start shooting everything in sight. My wife still ducks when she sees it coming,lol.
Again, no disrespect meant.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
What are your engine timings? Retarded timing makes heat.
Carb sucking hot underhood air makes heat.
Pumping hot exhaust thru skinny pipes and restrictive 3-pass mufflers makes heat.
Overheating automatic tranny makes heat.As does a cheap loose TC.

The point is this; the fan shroud is not the first, in the line of defense, to cure an overheat. Eliminating factors that contribute to it in the first place is. Doogie, I read your posts all the time, and I know you are a smart fella, so I imagine you know most, maybe even all of these things, and maybe some even that I have not thought of. And maybe you don't have an overheat issue at all, but just want a shroud because you well, just want a shroud. Fair enough, I get that, but man; you just gotta do something about that fuel line! No disrespect meant.
Click to expand...
Not to thread jack here, but I noticed you mentioned the "extra coolant cross over"
I have that same cross over on my duster, because I suspect the heater core is leaking
I would like to hear more bout why it should be "severely restricted"
 
The factory bypass is there for two reasons, 1) to keep the water from dead heading into the t-stat when it's below it's set point.The stat opens against the flow/pressure. If the factory bypass was not there, The stat would have a hard time opening. And 2) for a quick warm-up period, as the heated water from the heads is sent back into the pump for another go-around.
Also without a bypass, and before the stat opens, it might be possible for the WP to cavitate, and that destroys aluminum in a hurry.
When the stat opens, the hot water rushes into the top of the rad. The water pump now pulls water from the bottom of the rad which is,or soon will be, about 30 degrees cooler than the water coming into the stat crossover. That temperature difference tends to reduce the NOW-HOT bypass water intake.
Now, the heater circuit normally takes the hot water from the water Xover, and sends it through the heater core, where it loses its heat, and then returns to the pump, again some thirty degrees cooler. If you hook it it up as pictured, you are sending a second source of very hot water, back into the pump, which then sends that already heated water back thru the water jackets for another go-around.In my mind this is a bad idea. I thought so little of this idea, that I severely restricted the main bypass, and now use the heater circuit for the regular bypass.The bonus of that is a very fast interior warm-up, and an engine that I have not been able to overheat for about 12 years, even tho I run a 205 stat(hi-flo), and a 7 psi cap.I have forced almost all of the water to stay in the engine until it warms up, and then almost all of it is forced to go straight to the rad. In the hottest weeks I shut off the heater core all together, to prevent my toes from boiling, and also to force even more water to go to the rad. Only a tiny amount goes back into the pump.
So IMO, hooked up as shown, it is a recipe for an overheat.
Unless it is severely restricted.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Were you having overheat issues?
It almost looks like the fan is kindof far away from the rad.
And how are you driving that alternator?
That looks messed up.
Is that waterpump rotating in the correct direction?
Does your bottom hose have the anti-collapse spring in it?
Have you installed an anti-cavitation plate onto your W/P impeller?
Why do you have a rubber fuel line, and why is it routed over the hot header and, wait, is that a junction point right above pipe #2? How do you spell accident waiting to happen causing major melt-down?
Where is your PCV valve?
Why is that skinny battery ground cable(lol) bolted to the WP secured by a bolt that is known to corrode and seize up in the block?It should be on a stud in the front of the driver's side head, where you can service it from time to time.
How close is that PS hose to the adjacent header; it looks pretty close.
Why is there a second water by-pass from the pump to the intake; I hope it is plugged or severely restricted.
What are your engine timings? Retarded timing makes heat.
Carb sucking hot underhood air makes heat.
Pumping hot exhaust thru skinny pipes and restrictive 3-pass mufflers makes heat.
Overheating automatic tranny makes heat.As does a cheap loose TC.

The point is this; the fan shroud is not the first, in the line of defense, to cure an overheat. Eliminating factors that contribute to it in the first place is. Doogie, I read your posts all the time, and I know you are a smart fella, so I imagine you know most, maybe even all of these things, and maybe some even that I have not thought of. And maybe you don't have an overheat issue at all, but just want a shroud because you well, just want a shroud. Fair enough, I get that, but man; you just gotta do something about that fuel line! No disrespect meant.
Click to expand...

I like to come back to this comment from time to time. My car has been overheating again and I’m now curious if it’s because of my hose routing for the heater core bypass. I’ve seen a lot of pictures on here of guys running the same set up but I’m curious if there is a better way to route it other than capping it.
 
1693728723240.png

In the above pic, the one from your first post;
with the stat closed, all the water flowing thru the block deadheads at the stat, but the suction side of the pump being at a lower pressure than the intake, picks up the water at the bypass, and sends it back thru the engine for another trip. thus the water heats up fast.
With the heater core properly plumbed, this provides hot water into the cab with which to clear the windshield on defrost.
But in the system you have, that second hose is just a second redundant bypass.

Eventually, the water gets hot enough and the stat opens. And so, the hot water now splits, with most of it going to the rad, but the pump is still sucking hot water for a second go-round. and now your redundant bypass may also be bypassing. However, due to the pressure differential across the engine AND the sizing difference, most of the hot water should still be going to the rad.

IMO I don't think there is anything wrong with how you have that set up in the pic. However, the quick-test is to just clamp it off, while the engine is idling and up to temp, and then seeing what happens.

When I first built my engine, I restricted that bigger, standard bypass on mine, and left the heater-core functional to be the emergency back-up cooler. This forced most of the bypass water to go to the heater core, which made my feet really hot in July, so I clamped it off.

The real secret to cooling system efficiency, is getting the temperature difference, from the top of the rad to the bottom, as close to 30 degrees as is possible.
BTW
If the engine overheats in your driveway while idling with the hood up; the quickest way to cool it off is to spray a fine mist on the fins of the rad. The process of evaporation will suck the heat out way faster than pouring liquid water on it.
 
doogievlg said:
I’m curious if there is a better way to route it other than capping it.
Click to expand...
Well, if I had that intake, I would plumb that hose over to the other side of the intake, close to where it has traditionally always been; and cap the inlet on the pump. This will equalize the water pressure across the stat house.
I read a Book in the which Smokey Yunich talks about the crazy water flow that he observed in a chevy intake. He says something like, the water on hotter side of the engine makes a mad dash for the stat, which forces the other side to wait. Then when that waiting-side gets hotter, it makes the dash; and so there is this crazy stop and go pumping action going on there, which he figured was costing him horsepower at rpm. He figured out how to make it stop by rerouting each side separately to the rad. I can't remember the rest of the story, but I bet he won races with that clever trick.
 
AJ/FormS said:
View attachment 1716136645
In the above pic, the one from your first post;
with the stat closed, all the water flowing thru the block deadheads at the stat, but the suction side of the pump being at a lower pressure than the intake, picks up the water at the bypass, and sends it back thru the engine for another trip. thus the water heats up fast.
With the heater core properly plumbed, this provides hot water into the cab with which to clear the windshield on defrost.
But in the system you have, that second hose is just a second redundant bypass.

Eventually, the water gets hot enough and the stat opens. And so, the hot water now splits, with most of it going to the rad, but the pump is still sucking hot water for a second go-round. and now your redundant bypass may also be bypassing. However, due to the pressure differential across the engine AND the sizing difference, most of the hot water should still be going to the rad.

IMO I don't think there is anything wrong with how you have that set up in the pic. However, the quick-test is to just clamp it off, while the engine is idling and up to temp, and then seeing what happens.

When I first built my engine, I restricted that bigger, standard bypass on mine, and left the heater-core functional to be the emergency back-up cooler. This forced most of the bypass water to go to the heater core, which made my feet really hot in July, so I clamped it off.

The real secret to cooling system efficiency, is getting the temperature difference, from the top of the rad to the bottom, as close to 30 degrees as is possible.
BTW
If the engine overheats in your driveway while idling with the hood up; the quickest way to cool it off is to spray a fine mist on the fins of the rad. The process of evaporation will suck the heat out way faster than pouring liquid water on it.
Click to expand...

The funny thing about it is the car can sit and idle for 30 minutes and never overheat but if I take it for a 15 minute drive it gets too hot. I could have sworn that lower hose had a spring in it but now after reading your comment again I’m thinking that may be it too. It may be collapsing at high rpm.
 
AJ/FormS said:
ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do.
keep me posted.
Click to expand...

I am replacing the belts on the car so whenever I get back over there to put them on I’ll pull that bottom hose off and see if there’s a spring in it.
 
AJ/FormS said:
ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do.
keep me posted.
Click to expand...

No spring in the bottom and a 16 PSI cap. I recon I should go down to a 14 psi cap at the most and try to find a hose with a spring in it. Most parts stores don’t seem to sell them with a spring anymore.
 
AJ/FormS said:
ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do.
keep me posted.
Click to expand...

Back for a good update. Put a thermostat in the car and let it run in the driveway for 39 minutes. The temp gauge read 230 but the fluid wasn’t moving which was odd. Upper radiator hose was warm but not hot. Finally the thermostat opened but the gauge stayed at 230. Put the IR gun on it and it was at 160°. Drove it a few miles and hit it with the gun again, 170. I’ve been chasing a ghost. The temperature sensor is bad.
 
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