You must understand how a Mopar ignition switch works
There are THREE separate circuits that are to do with starting and running, and all three come from different contacts on the switch, that is, the "switch" is actually SEVERAL switches in one can
1 "IGN1" or "ignition run", traditionally dark blue, is hot ONLY in run, NOT start. It comes from the switch, branches off to feed power to the instrument cluster and goes through the bulkhead to feed (depending on the year)
the "switch side" of the ballast resistor
the blue alternator field on 70/ later
the voltage regulator "I" terminal
electric choke if used
some smog doo dads on later cars
This wire is NOT fused, and is NOT hot in "start"
2 "start", traditionall yellow, comes from the switch, also not fused, through the bulkhead, to one of the two push on terminals of the start relay. Hot ONLY in start
3 "bypass" or "IGN2", traditionally brown, not fused, comes from the switch, through the bulkhead to the COIL+ side of the ballast, and provides "hot" 12V for starting to the ignition
You can do this a couple of ways
1 If you have upgraded the ignition to MSD, HEI, or some other system by which you have bypassed the ballast resistor, you are all set, because by connecting the ballast terminals together, you have now provided a "point" that is now hot in BOTH run (dark blue) and start (brown)
2 IF you have something the Mopar ECU or other system where you need to keep a ballast, the only really handy way is to install either
A a separate, Bosch style relay, which you can trigger either off the brown bypass, or the yellow start wire, and tie that to your dark blue "run" wire.
B. Replace the start relay with a later Jeep relay, which has a second set of contacts inside, you would tie the "bal" contact in the photo to the dark blue "run" line. You will notice that the SOL (solenoid) terminal is now a "push on" terminal, so you'll have to change that
C I believe you could also do this with a diode. Hook a RadShack diode, let's say, 5A, 50V rating or so, between the yellow start wire going to your present starter relay, and the other end to the "dark blue" ignition run wire. The diode has a band on the cathode end, and you'll want that band on the end hooking to the dark blue wire
If there is a simpler way, I cannot think of it tonight. Getting bleary eyed!!
