Fel-Pro intake gaskets

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RedFish

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About these high performance gaskets Fel-Pro #2143. .06 thick space age material , etc..
Use these end rail gaskets too ? Or just a bead of RTV ?
With or without intake locating dowel pins ?

These gaskets have the heat transfer passages blocked off completely.
Stock cast iron intake and 2 brl. Driven in all seasons. Leave those passanges blocked or razor therm through ?
 
driving in the winter without the heat riser sucks, especially if it's your get me to work now 'cause i over slept and it's freekin' cold out and the car stalls every time i try to take off from a light car
 
Thanks. If I just went ahead with OEM type gaskets i would save money and have nobe of these questions
I'm using the intake from my 73 318. The choke mecanism has a small electric heater in it too so as the choke would open just much slower.
It doesn't make sense to have a working heat riser in the right manifold if the crossover is blocked though. I think I will razor the passages in the gaskets so I've answered my own question.
I still need to know if the front and rear rail gaskets can be trusted to not leak.
I can put the dowel pins in to help hold them in place. All the fingers from the head gaskets are still there too.
I guess what bothers me the most is with approx. .06 void to fill , I'll need a whole tube of RTV to close it up without the gaskets.
 
i use the gaskets and dowels and RTV the crap out of them. i'd also make sure you fill up the ends where they meet with the intake gaskets and turn up the little locating tabs on the ends too. after it's all dry you can clean it up any mess with a razor blade
 
Bump and more
So I thought I would just run with the info i have , went ahead and opened the gaskets and found the blue sealant that Fel-pro applied is on just one side.
I assume that goes UP or toward the intake ( no UP or DOWN markings ).
My question is.. Is their small bead of sealant enough ?
They didn't put a bead where they didn't cut out those heat paasanges so I know to use some Hi-temp RTV there.
I dont have the backbone required to set this cst iron intake in place so I need to know I've got it right before my helper goes on the clock.
Thanks guys :)
 
Forgive me for going astray but I had to know. I did some reading at Ford and Chevy forums for answers. I'll add them here so others dont need to stoop so low LOL
The bare side of the gasket gets bonded to a clean head surface with a thinn coat of adhesive, sealing cement, whatever you wish to call it.
The blue or orange printed port sealer is sufficient for both aluminum and cast iron intakes when properly torqued. Very careful R&R of the intake can allow reusing these gaskets too.
The cork end gaskets have adhesive that will hold them in place on the block rails providing that rail is cleaned residue free ( rubbing alcohol and scotch brite pad works well ). A bead of RTV on the intake rail is added insurance against oil leaks.
We all know that cork is a porus organic material. It can wick oil or water through it or dry rot depending on environment.
Throwing out the cork end seals and applying a continuous 1/4 Inch by 1/4 bead of RTV on the block rails is acceptable, as good, and many will insist better especially if you plan to change the intake since the cork gaskets are not reusable.
One other tip... If you use the cork, retain the locator dowel pins.
When using RTV only remove the pins and clean those holes like all other surfaces. RTV fill in those holes creates a finger that is stronger than RTV around the pins.
Happy moparing
 
ok, i'll argue with some of that ;)
i've never used anything on the head or intake side except a very thin layer of RTV at the water passages, no problems.

end gaskets: it's difficult with a cast iron intake to drop that sucker straight down with the engine in a car without a little fore/aft movment. i don't care how you do it or how many people you have. when that happens with no end gasket you have a good chance of wiping off the very large bead of RTV.

why worry about re-using the gaskets in a street car? and yes, they shouldn't need sealer added, but it sucks when they start weeping oil

installation: if you have a helper AND a hoist, it's MUCH easier

good luck,
and where the heck are the pics ?? :)

p.s. a razor blade works great for cleaning of surfaces
 
The castings are machined to a RMS finish. RMS stands for reletive mean squared. I remember having to open the machists bible to learn more. Today we can Google most anything including RMS finish.
Anywho... That little bit of roughness povides a tooth for bonding Stops the gasket from sliding.That can't be regained with a razor blade. It did remove the old gasket material. A brass wire brush and part cleaner removed the staining between and around the ports revealing that RMS finish. Alcohol, scotch brite, and clean towel is removing any residue. I'll try to remember and snap a pic. Too hot out there and my back goes away real quick. I'll get'er done eventually.
Reason I'm using these fancy gaskets is they were here, free, and dont match the port size of a 4 brl intake. When I do use the Edelbrock performer intake I'll need a different gasket/part number.
 
good that you have a smooth clean surfaces for the gaskets. almost everything i've taken apart over the years has previously been taken apart by some goofball with a gasket scraper fetish that's managed to add a gouges to the surface :(
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
hopefully the gasket holds up and doesnt burn through the cross over after 3-5 minutes worth of wot...kinda like the 1213 does.
Click to expand...

In the end I did cut through the gaskets at the heat passages. I did toss the cork end gaskets aside. I did remove the 2 dowel pins. Intake dropped into place alomost too easy. Waiting for the RTV to cure now.
Someone asked for a pic, aint much to see thats for sure.
I'll get another after I get the valves adjusted and those covers painted.
 

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RedFish said:
The castings are machined to a RMS finish. RMS stands for reletive mean squared. I remember having to open the machists bible to learn more. Today we can Google most anything including RMS finish.
Anywho... That little bit of roughness povides a tooth for bonding Stops the gasket from sliding.That can't be regained with a razor blade. It did remove the old gasket material. A brass wire brush and part cleaner removed the staining between and around the ports revealing that RMS finish. Alcohol, scotch brite, and clean towel is removing any residue. I'll try to remember and snap a pic. Too hot out there and my back goes away real quick. I'll get'er done eventually.
Reason I'm using these fancy gaskets is they were here, free, and dont match the port size of a 4 brl intake. When I do use the Edelbrock performer intake I'll need a different gasket/part number.
Click to expand...
A far easier way of removing gaskets is using a scotchloc disc on a diegrinder. Removes everything quick and effortlessly. And leaves your rough finish. Spray with brakeclean and wipe.
 
RedFish said:
The castings are machined to a RMS finish. RMS stands for reletive mean squared. I remember having to open the machists bible to learn more. Today we can Google most anything including RMS finish.
Click to expand...
Root mean squared or Ra (roughness average). Usually on sealing surfaces we use Ra and on unfinished surfaces like the sides on the block we would use rms.
 
Blklstd said:
A far easier way of removing gaskets is using a scotchloc disc on a diegrinder. Removes everything quick and effortlessly. And leaves your rough finish. Spray with brakeclean and wipe.
Click to expand...

oldkimmer said:
I’m pretty sure he has it taken care of. Like about 9 years ago. Kim
Click to expand...
and since then i now have scotchloc discs for my grinder :)
 
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