Fiberglass & Lexan
- Thread starter LSP.
- Start date
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If it is a race only car, before you install the fiberglass pieces, use various size hole saws to put the unseen sheet metal on a diet. I don't suggest this for a street driven car because of the potential water leakage. You would be surprised how much weight the car will loose with the holes. My car is 2500# with me in my SFI suit, and 5 gallons of fuel.
The under side of the cowl weighed 9 lbs. without the trimmings.
Glasstech for the fiberglass.
In the crate is a one piece front , Pin on hood and trunk lid, removable doors, rear bumper , and the Dash . 2 strong young guys carried it into the race trailer including the weight of the wood.
Glasstech for the fiberglass.
In the crate is a one piece front , Pin on hood and trunk lid, removable doors, rear bumper , and the Dash . 2 strong young guys carried it into the race trailer including the weight of the wood.
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Go on a personal diet, buy aluminum heads, don't drill the car full of holes. They don't make them anymore.
Leave the back glass, trunk lid, and rear bumper stock. You'll need that weight for traction. Cars can slow down if you take rear weight off.
Putting a car on a serious diet can get expensive quickly. Did I mention not drilling it full of holes?
Tom
You own it so do what ever you want. Why save it for the next guy to have fun. The car you see above is a rust free 4 spd Demon .
Make it light.
Make it light.
Glass tech
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