finally got a bit of garage time

[moparmat2000]

Finally got a bit of garage time. Started on my front lower radiator crossmember upgrade. I took some ideas from Rapoms Rocket resto thread on this one. I used 2×3 boxed steel. 1/16" wall thickness. In Rapoms build thread the 2×3 fit neatly over the rails on his duster. The cudas rails must be wider than the duster, or the tubing Rapom chose was 2x3 inside diameter, mine is 2x3 outside diameter as my tubing would not do this. I will make lap plates to tie it in. The tubing is Roughly same thickness as the original crossmember but boxed should make it a lot stronger. I taped a couple bondo spreaders to the bottom of the radiator to get the gap between the lower tank and crossbar for the initial tack welding. I still have to finish out the right side. The left side i cut out the arcs and rolled the metal over and welded it to get the nice curved corner. I still have to make landings to tie in the lower radiator mounts, and make a bracket for the hood release support bracket that bolts in the middle.

Thanks 4 looking
Matt

 

[duster360]

Very nice work.

 

[moparmat2000]

Thank you

 

[moparmat2000]

I had been concidering putting the caplug holes back in on my new crossmember at the front upper mounting point. It would help with cleanout, and rustproofing the framerails, and possibly appear stockish, plus i am going to look at maybe incorporating part of the old crossmember into this new one if only to closeout the gap, tie the lower radiator mounts back in, and provide a bracket for the center grille support. If it wont work neatly, i can custom make this out of 14-16 gage sheet.

I will be back on this hopefully early this afternoon.

Matt

 

[gdrill]

Looking really good Matt. If I didn't already purchase a Dillinger setup for my next A-body, I would build that. It looks strong, clean and well fitting.

 

[moparmat2000]

Thanks gdrill,

I finished up the other corner, knocked out some 3/4" drain holes, and am in the process of fitting the original lower support back in to close out the bottom of the radiator, tie in the radiator lower mount sheetmetal, and reattach point for the center support. I yot about 10 hours in this support i'm making so far, so thats not too bad. Figured i'd show pix on how to make a clean corner out of square tubing.

Maybe a mod can flip these right side up too LOL

Matt

 

[moparmat2000]

Ok, i threw on the fenders, upper, and lower valance. I am thinking about notching and boxing in the support so i can pull it up about an inch or so farther up. Heres what it looks like right now. Everythings clecoed or clamped in place. Should i leave it as is, and paint it black when i repaint the engine compartment, or move it up a bit. Not sure if i like it sticking down below the lower valance that far.

 

[cudascott]

Here I fixed it

 

[cudascott]

And the other one

 

[moparmat2000]

I think i am gonna leave the sheetmetal on for a little bit and think on this before i decide to notch and box the new crossmember and tuck it up tighter.

Any thoughts?

Is it Hideous with it hanging low?
Or cool looking?

 

[gdrill]

I'll have to look around and see a stock one to compare. It is low, but it definitely will protect the rad. It looks like even if you notch it due to the depth of the rad it's still gonna be just a bit visible. Just not as much. I imagine once the bumper and all is assembled you really wont see it without crawling down there.

 

[moparmat2000]

I think the original crossmember stuck down below the valance about 3/4" which isnt too bad, this one however sticks below the valance 2"

If i notch it 1&1/2" deep, and bring it up, and leave a 1/4 gap between rad lower tank and and notched out boxed in lower area i could theoretically make it hang as low as the original.

Question is do i kill any strength notching it out and then boxing it back in compared to just leaving it alone?

 

[gdrill]

If you notch it and box it back in it will still be far superior to the flimsy stock support.

 

[furyus2]

I think you should change it. You don't seem happy with it hanging that low. If you leave it, it will bug you when you look at it.

 

[moparmat2000]

Yep furyus2 i think i am gonna notch it and pull it up tighter this weekend.

 

[moparmat2000]

Ok i decided to notch out 1&1/2" deep and bring it up about 1&1/4" to give me about 1/4" gap between the lower tank and the crossmember. I still have to lay a lot of weld to box it all back in, however heres pix of trial fit with lower valance temp installed. I am glad i decided to do this. Looks much better.

Matt

 

[moparmat2000]

Pix before, and after notching and moving crossmember up hopefully somebody can flip these

 

[gdrill]

I just turned my computer upside down! Yup. Excellent decision. That looks awesome. 110% better. Perhaps you have the next custom part to be built for our cars! Hint hint.

 

[moparmat2000]

Thanks gdrill,

Problem is theres so much fab work in one of these it may just be a one trick pony, or 2 trick pony as i will prob do this on my sons 69 notch a few years from now. Cutting that section out was a PITA, now i have to flip the cutout section box the ends and weld it back in. Lots of weld n grind, and still only have it pinned in place. This is why i will be posting pix so others can copy what i am doing if they so desire.

Thanks for the kind words
Matt

 

[mguner]

What no cleco pins? ;)

 

[moparmat2000]

Yup theres a few in there, along with some C clamps

 

[moparmat2000]

Heres upside down pix