First Engine Build - Advice Needed

-
66fs said:
You don't need to have to have a machine shop assemble your engine. Yellow Rose is trying to help you succeed. He is also right about the ridge cutter, you can easily cut off center or too deep and force yourself into having to buy larger pistons. There are a lot of things to learn, but if you are careful and very detail oriented you should be fine. You will not need dial bore gage and a lot of specialized measuring equipment unless you are doing the machining. That is why you need a good shop. You should get a tapered piston installer and use 3/8 fuel line on the rod bolts to prevent nicking the crank. Next would be a beam torque wrench big enough to torque the largest bolt in the engine. And a small one to torque the smallest bolt on the engine, usually inch pound. There is almost nothing better than firing your engine for the first time. I never get tired of it.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to give the impression that I was responding harshly to Yellow Rose. My last paragraph was a general statement to anyone believing I was being foolish.

And yes, I've heard about the "first start thrill"... I'm dying to get to that point.

66fs said:
All big blocks use a 727 transmission. They never made a 904 to bolt up to a big block.
Click to expand...

I did not realize that. I was under the impression that the 727 was always auto and the 904 was a manual/auto platform used for higher power engines. Regardless, I have two 727's and a 904. One of the 727's was on the /6 when I drove the car home. I figure I have options, or at least, something to use for trade if I need to get something else.
 
The 904 was the lighter standard auto transmission found behind /6 and small block engines. The 727 was the heavy duty automatic found behind big blocks and 340's, some 360's, and some small block trucks. A 727 is very rare behind a /6. The best way to tell is to look at the transmission oil pan.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top