First time painter shoping list?

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Thanatos340

Thanatos340

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I just bought a beautiful completely rust free 73 Duster that will be delivered this weekend. Bought it as a rolling chassis with no interior (perfect for me as I have a brand new interior in my rusty 76 that will be going in it and a built 69 340 and 904 ready to drop in).

First step when the new car gets here is going to be to strip and repaint the floor pan and the engine bay to get ready for the transplants from the 76 (Exterior is fine like it is).

Floor pan I figure is the best place to start as it does not really matter if I screw it up and I can practice before doing the engine bay. Both are currently blue and will be redone in satin black. Just looking for a driver quality street/Strip finish.

I have never painted anything and have absolutely no paint supplies in the shop at all.

What Paint, Primer, Stripper is most forgiving for a complete novice and appropriate for a floorpan and engine bay?
Any other must have shop supplies other than masking tape and paper?

thanks.
 
I use morhyde high build fill prime, around 150.00 for reducer hardener and primer, I use PPG paint. and House Of Kolor clear, paint all depends on color for cost clear can run as cheap as 100.00-400.00 per gallon ready to spray. I use morhyde sealer also
 
Rustoleum, grab a couple quart cans. About $20.

Get some paint strainers and a few mixing cups.

Thin as per the instructions on the can.

Shoot it out of a cheep HVLP gun.


No reason to spend hundreds of dollars for what you are trying to do.
 
Not sure what you are using for a compressor, but dry air is extremely important. There are several forms of dryers available. Razor blades are handy for trimming masking at key points. Prior to spraying be sure to remove all wax and grease (contaminants) from the surface. There are products made specifically for this. I can't remember the real name, but there is some "sticky" cheese cloth type rags to wipe the surface prior to paint to remove lint etc. This isn't all so critical for the floor and bay, but when you paint the exterior you may as well do the proper prep, the result will be worth the effort.
 
You need a compressor and air dryer and gun with filter and adjustable pressure controll (you are not trying to paint custum just make it look better go to harbor frieght and craigslist but a good compressor is always important for many things). Next a air mask that can handle organic vapors and eye protection. You will need acetone and cleaning supplies. You will need surface prep tools sanders sand paper etc. Masking material to protect other things not wanted that color or painted. Then once prep is all done get a epoxy primer and then some filler primer to sand out imperfections in jambs and bay who cares about floor boards it gets covered. Oh dont forget seam sealer and body plugs if they are bad. Then focus on paint a simple singlestage and clear or base clear system the color of the rest of the car. No need to clear the floor boards just door jambs and maybe underhood. Thats my 2 cents and very general advise. Prep is important!! have fun
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Rustoleum, grab a couple quart cans. About $20.

Get some paint strainers and a few mixing cups.

Thin as per the instructions on the can.

Shoot it out of a cheep HVLP gun.


No reason to spend hundreds of dollars for what you are trying to do.
Click to expand...

Something we can agree on, Rustoleum bedliner dude. No need to get silly on this.
 
A decent dryer and regulator. Air hose. Fittings. Air blower nozzle. Decent gravity fed primer and paint gun. I bought my primer guns and paint guns from eastwoods. Basic primer guns are cheap 30 bucks and seem to behave reliably, so does my paint gun I got from them for 200. I am sure there are many better ones than eastwood's but I had some store credit.

Remove all tar, gummy tar based crap, oily substances and loose material. Cleanliness and oil free is the most important thing for paint sticking. Sanded and rust removal is second to cleanliness.

I normally use lots of denatured alcohol (use in low humidity environment as alcohol absorbs moisture) for bulk cleaning and low VOC laquer thinner for final degrease. Then the tack cloth.

The seam sealer and tar that seals the seams you shouldnt have to remove unless it is dry and comming off in chunks. Then I would get rid of it and put new urethane seam sealer in there after super cleaning the seams.

There are some excellent painters on this forum, hopefully they will chime in.

I would recommend a 2 part epoxy thinned with the correct thinner (for sealing and excellent adhesion) and then painted the correct car color with single stage (no clear coat needed) for the inside and less essential places like under hood or under side.

southern polyurethanes makes excellent epoxy which can go over about any sanded and prepared surface or bare metal and TCP global makes a broad number of colors in single stage.

Otherwise, just prepare by sanding / wire wheel it then degrease super clean and use rustoleum or x-o rust like others recommend.

I removed all the seam sealer and all the paint from the inside of my other duster with a couple wire wheels on a 20 dollar harbor freight right angle grinder (gloves and eye protection or risk major potential for injury and cover delicate items such as glass and appolstery). Then just degreased really well and it and it was ready for bare metal primer.
 
First thing on the list if you are serious painting and resto. Organic Vapor respirator.

Then....

Air supply. 2 Stage with minimum 14-16 cfm @ 90 psi.

Good air filtration. Motorguard setup is great.

HVLP gun for priming. I like Devilbiss finishline3 1.8 and 2.2 tip set cupped.

For base,clear, and all other automotive paints and sealers buy an RP or compliant gun with a 1.3 or 1.4 tip. I like Sata but a Devilbiss GFG Plus Gum or Teckna Copper (7E7 cap) is fine.

Don't skimp on this list above and your experience will be much less frustrating.

Use only 2K primers and paint. Anything that uses activator, hardener, or catalyst are all 2K.

Passover the enamels and stick with urethane color and/or clear as the urethanes are MUCH more durable period.

Save your spray cans and rustoleum for the wheelbarrow, tiller, and lawn furniture.

Blocking kit is mandatory for smooth panels https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-11890-14601.aspx

Various grits of sand paper to get you up to final sanding before top color are 36 or 40, 80, and 180 psa rolls. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/mirka-autokut-psa-sandpaper-rolls-p-12052.aspx

For stripping a hood and panels get a variable speed 8 in. side sander/polisher.
80 grit PSA is ok. Watch the heat and keep moving. DIYs are ok with a Great Neck from autozone. 80 bucks. For good quality makita or dewalt. I like Makita.

Buy a gallon setup of epoxy and a gallon setup urethane primer.

Mixing lids are 15 bucks a piece get one for each gal of primer.

That should get ya started.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the advise. VERY expensive starting from nothing and trying to do a little here. Never dreamed it would cost so much for materials to paint a floor pan and engine bay. I do already have a good Air compressor (6hp, 30 Gal) that is like new.

The floorpan has a good bit more rust than I was expecting. Nothing too bad just surface rust and some pitting in the drivers side. I have a buddy with a media blaster that we will use to clean it all up. Decided to go with Por15 on the floorpans after that just to be safe because of the rust and it will be covered anyway.

Shopping list for Floor pan:
Gallon Marine Clean
Gallon Prep and ready
6 Pack of SG Black Por15
Qt Por15 Solvent
Brushes, Gloves, ect..
Total $160

Next up is the engine Bay. The plan is to completely remove the front clip, mask off the car, Sand the fenderwells and firewall down to bare metal, Epoxy prime and then spray Black Satin finish for the engine bay.

Shopping list for Engine Bay:
2K Ceramic Black Satin & Epoxy Primer Kit from Eastwood- $100
Masking Tape and Paper - $40
Abrasives - $50
Mixing cups, Paddles, Strainers, tack rags - $50
Total - $240

General Shop:
Two HVLP Guns (1.4 & 1.8 ) - $90
Respirator - $30
Extra Hoses, Fittings, ect.. $50
In line Desiccant air dryers - $30
Total $200

Project cost $600.00 and i will still need to cover the media for the blaster we will be using on the floor pan.Those old rattle cans and Rustolem are starting to look a lot more attractive. Oh well, Everything is ordered now and the work goes down this weekend. Now I just need to go sell some blood or plasma or something to pay for all this.:wink:
I will start a Resto thread next week with the progress.

 
yes it is not cheap but think of what you're saving by DIY as opposed to paying someone to do it for you. Much of the material you can use for future projects, paper, guns... and so on. So it is not just do the floor and done.
If you plan on doing the whole car in the future? You may want to buy rolls of 80 and 220 etc as it is a lot cheaper for a roll of 100 sheet (25.00) than 4 or 5 disks of it at 5.00.
 
So just out of curiousity why aren't you painting the bay body color? I always say Mopars are the only ones that got that right. I just painted the bay of my 65 Mustang body color, looks so much better than it did flat black.
 
1. Wagner Power-Painter

2. 2gal Plasti-Dip

3. When you get sick of that color, literally peel it off and redo it in another! :D

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNY9Dx617N8"]PlastiDip a WHOLE CAR - How-to by DipYourCar.com - YouTube[/ame]

I'm actually tempted to plasti-dip my '76 when it comes down to it... Just dunno how well a stripe would work on a plasti-dipped paintjob; wondering if masking tape wouldn't lift the original coat of p-dip, or digging a fingernail or something into the tape to peel it up sorta makes me nervous...


- CK
 
Rob said:
So just out of curiousity why aren't you painting the bay body color? I always say Mopars are the only ones that got that right. I just painted the bay of my 65 Mustang body color, looks so much better than it did flat black.
Click to expand...

It is all part of the bigger plan. Honestly I am not a fan of the B3 Blue. I know the purest`s will cringe because it is a factory B3 Blue car but I have always loved the Black and White paint scheme that my 76 (in my avatar pic) has. Ultimately this new 73 will get that same treatment but that is atleast a year or so down the road. In the mean time while the engine is out, I thought it would be best to go ahead and do the engine bay in the satin black and hopefully save a few bucks when I get a professional shop to do the exterior in the White/Black combo down the road.
 
Are you renting a compressor for media blasting. That comressor wont push that sand or soda. I would mechanically remove scale and let the POR15 do the rest. Its far less messy and less likely to leave media in crack for future corrosion. Just my 2 cents. I have used that eastwood epoxy i really liked it just give it plenty of time to dry as on tech sheet. It sands well for epoxy.
 
Thanatos340 said:
Thanks to everyone for all the advise. VERY expensive starting from nothing and trying to do a little here. Never dreamed it would cost so much for materials to paint a floor pan and engine bay. I do already have a good Air compressor (6hp, 30 Gal) that is like new.

The floorpan has a good bit more rust than I was expecting. Nothing too bad just surface rust and some pitting in the drivers side. I have a buddy with a media blaster that we will use to clean it all up. Decided to go with Por15 on the floorpans after that just to be safe because of the rust and it will be covered anyway.

Shopping list for Floor pan:
Gallon Marine Clean
Gallon Prep and ready
6 Pack of SG Black Por15
Qt Por15 Solvent
Brushes, Gloves, ect..
Total $160

Next up is the engine Bay. The plan is to completely remove the front clip, mask off the car, Sand the fenderwells and firewall down to bare metal, Epoxy prime and then spray Black Satin finish for the engine bay.

Shopping list for Engine Bay:
2K Ceramic Black Satin & Epoxy Primer Kit from Eastwood- $100
Masking Tape and Paper - $40
Abrasives - $50
Mixing cups, Paddles, Strainers, tack rags - $50
Total - $240

General Shop:
Two HVLP Guns (1.4 & 1.8 ) - $90
Respirator - $30
Extra Hoses, Fittings, ect.. $50
In line Desiccant air dryers - $30
Total $200

Project cost $600.00 and i will still need to cover the media for the blaster we will be using on the floor pan.Those old rattle cans and Rustolem are starting to look a lot more attractive. Oh well, Everything is ordered now and the work goes down this weekend. Now I just need to go sell some blood or plasma or something to pay for all this.:wink:
I will start a Resto thread next week with the progress.
Click to expand...

The links I gave you are the best prices I know of other than pivco,com
Eastwood relabels their stuff and jacks the prices. Go to pivco or autobodytoolmart and compare prices. Go to toolwarehouse.com and ck prices before using Eastwood as your first go to. After awhile you will see what I am trying to convey. But ya gotta spend 5 minutes searching. Good luck. Btw i dont do POR. For what its worth epoxy is just as good.
 
dodgecity said:
The links I gave you are the best prices I know of other than pivco,com
Eastwood relabels their stuff and jacks the prices. Go to pivco or autobodytoolmart and compare prices. Go to toolwarehouse.com and ck prices before using Eastwood as your first go to. After awhile you will see what I am trying to convey. But ya gotta spend 5 minutes searching. Good luck. Btw i dont do POR. For what its worth epoxy is just as good.
Click to expand...

dodgecity, I couldn't find toolwarehouse.com, do you mean www.thetoolwarehouse.net, I found autobodytoolmart no problem but the other link didn't work,

also thanks for the info in the previous post.
 
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