Flared hard line to AN fittings?

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mopardude318 said:
I use Black AN fittings for everything. But currently use the brand XRP. (xtreme racecar plumbing)


http://www.xrp.com/

not cheap either way
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This is just my opinion but I am not a big fan of the XRP stuff. Just seems like a little lower quality than some of the name brands. The local speed shop carries their stuff exclusively so I've ended up using a few of their pieces since that was what was available at the time I needed it. IMO, the XRP parts don't play well with the other brands and the anodizing seems lacking to me, they chip/gall if you look at them funny.

Few more tips for the OP:


  • Whatever brand you decide on, try to keep all the hoses and fittings the same.
  • If you have to use thread sealant on pipe threads, use paste and not tape.
  • This book helped when I was doing my plumbing.

Once you have an idea of what you're doing, draw it out on paper and label all the parts accordingly before you order. This was a big help for me because it became easier to see as a whole system.

Plumbing is not hard but just takes planning and knowledge of fittings.
 
I made a list of all the hoses and fittings needed system by system, and shopped the list. I ended ordering from Jegs, Summit, and Speedway. Each supplier has different pricing on the same items, and each carries items the others do not.I went with all black, and it was not cheap, but it will last. I will say there are 45* to AN adapters.
Andrew
 
I did a quick map out in paint. What do you guys think. The rubber hose part is because the powerjection instructions show that area as a low-pressure line.
 

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Why are you reducing to no4 for the return? Even on my Holley Commander TBI, no4 has too much restriction, and it's low pressure, about 15-18 PSI
 
67Dart273 said:
Why are you reducing to no4 for the return? Even on my Holley Commander TBI, no4 has too much restriction, and it's low pressure, about 15-18 PSI
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I had thought i needed a smaller return than feed line. Plus, the inlet on my fuel sender for the return is only 5/16s
 
-4 is pretty small for a return. I would use at least a -6 but that is me. My feed is a -10 and my return is a -8 on my set up.
 
Mad Dart said:
-4 is pretty small for a return. I would use at least a -6 but that is me. My feed is a -10 and my return is a -8 on my set up.
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But then i would i get over the smaller return inlet? That'd still be a restricting point.
 
5/16th line is -5. For your application this will be fine. The harbinger is that -5 stuff isn't as common. Don't use -4 for fuel lines unless you're working on a Briggs and Stratton.
 
magnumdust said:
Yeah that's why i was going small, but i wonder, would a shop be able to modify the fuel sender and put in a 3/8 return tube in place of that 5/16's?
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Yes piece of cake. Tig or old school brazing would fix you right up. If you we're closer I would do it for ya!

If there is enough room you could probable cut it off and tap it for an AN fitting of some sort.
 
This is great because I doing almost the same thing you are. With low pressure TBI, you don't need to use flare connections. You can use AN to hard line fittings (compression nut inside) like these:

http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Hard-Line-AN-Tube-Fittings/749418/10002/-1

You can also use Swagelok fittings if you're feeling sporting, which is what I'll do. That is, you can attach a Swegelok fitting on one side to an unflared steel tube and the other directly to an AN fitting.

This week I also found out that you'll never find a return line other than 1/4" on a new fuel sender. This is a real problem because if the return pressure is too high (more than 3 psi) your pressure regulator will not operate correctly and you'll never tune your car. If you use a 1/4" return you'll have something like 9 psi. You can use your stock current 5/16" stock line as a return. Just modify either your tank or fuel sender to accommodate a 5/16" fitting. But I'm going to use 3/8" all the way around because I don't want to wonder what's up with my 48 year old fuel lines in my new EFI system as I drive down the street. While there are many ways to do this, I did what the second poster did on this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/370847-fuel-sending-unit-fitting.html

I modified a brand new sender yesterday with this same setup. So now I have 3/8" out and 3/8" return. And I didn't have to pull my gas tank.

My initial fear was the aluminum fittings on steel lines would suffer from galvanic corrosion or simply not compress hard enough on steel lines, especially given that I want to use new stainless lines like these, part number PAF6402:

http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Lines/Web%20Line%20Listings/PA-CAT-01.htm

But it turns out that double annealed lines like these are soft enough for the compression fittings and apparently nobody has suffered the expected corrosion, probably because the coated or stainless steel doesn't react with the anodized aluminum in the way one might expect, especially with high alcohol fuel running through them,

I hope this helps you.

-marcus
 
magnumdust said:
But then i would i get over the smaller return inlet? That'd still be a restricting point.
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The thing about stepping down large lines/ hose to a small fitting, is that restriction gets WORSE (friction) as the small size area gets LONGER. So a short length of 1/4 tube (example) is not going to restrict no5 or even no6 hose nearly as much as using no4 hose the full length.

So far as adapting a fitting, if you are using AN, these type fittings are ALSO KNOWN as "JIC" and are commonly sold (in steel) at anyplace that makes hydraulic hoses for tractor/ industrial stuff. This means, example, that you can get a JIC steel fitting with whatever - size - your- return (no5? 6?) hose and fittings are, so a "half union," with no5/6 JIC (AN) on one end, and something like 1/4 pipe or something on the other end. Then all you need to do is put a spare nut on the fitting to protect it, put in in your vise, and drill it out so it's a slip fit onto your 5/16 sender port. Then just silver braze, or hell, even solder -- use plumbing solder even--and solder it right on. You want to wrap the sender in wet cloth to keep it from being overheated. The sender fittings MIGHT be soft soldered.

What I'm suggesting looks something like this. You want JIC, not SAE, and you want steel, (which is common), not stainless, aluminum, other

1818121_set
 
yes the J.I.C. fittings are the Non military version of the A/N fittings and they can be found at your local hydraulic shop and also come in steel and stainless (brass/copper???) they are usually much cheaper than the A/N fittings (which are usually anodized aluminum). they have the same 37 degree flared end. You could use them with soft copper tubing (max 840 psi) or aluminum tubing.
 
Here is where I'm at, I spoke to the local welding shop and they do stainless. So on wed I'm gonna go chase down some stainless 3/8 tube and have the return inlet changed out. Then since its low pressure, I'm gonna run a nice easy compression an6 fitting there.
 
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