Agree! Those look like they might be for a midplate application.
I would do some measuring before I threw a trans on with that converter!
It was confirmed to me from GTX John, who I bought the converter from, that my stock flex plate will work.
Agree! Those look like they might be for a midplate application.
I would do some measuring before I threw a trans on with that converter!
As far as cheap tools go, Husky does suck lol. Most of my sockets are Craftsman, Kobalt or whatever brand they sell at Ace Hardware I can't remember the name. For nicer pro-quality tools I like Cornwell but haven't had a need to buy any yet, might need a new 3/8"-drive ratchet soon my old Duralast POS has held up great but could be better.
It was confirmed to you from a LOT of people here! I think your main problem is what's starin back at you from the mirror! lolIt was confirmed to me from GTX John, who I bought the converter from, that my stock flex plate will work.
It was confirmed to you from a LOT of people here! I think your main problem is what's starin back at you from the mirror! lol
I think that's probably true with each of us, though! I know it is with me. lolI know and I used it. I was just replying to the most recent guys post.
Oh I know I am the biggest culprit with wanting to buy more stuff than I actual need lol.
If GTX John says it'll work, it'll work. I was just concerned by the length of the flexplate to converter lugs. When a mid-plate is used, the lugs get longer to make up for the thickness of the plate. If you try to put a midplate converter in a normal position trans, the extra length can bind up the front pump, and potentially destroy the trans.It was confirmed to me from GTX John, who I bought the converter from, that my stock flex plate will work.
Now I am lost. If you had the Chrysler ones, why get the ARP?
ARP bolt has the better looking finish, thinner head for additional clearance (application depending) looks to have more “shoulder” surface to contact the flexplate. The thread length is shorter so it would likely not bottom out in the converter mounts, but if one had to use spacers it might not have enough thread engagement. And cost more than typical bolts. Those are the only possible negative. The Oreilly bolts have extra length which would be the better choice if additional length was needed in cases where you have to space the converter and are obviously less costly. More differences than you might thinkWaited all week for these... not much difference between arp chrysler 7/16 bolts and "parts store" bolts besides the overall length... maybe 1/8 in the thickness of the head... none the less got the "correct" arp torque converter bolts. Oh and some fancy type F for firmer shifts.
View attachment 1715908214
Nevermind.No I didnt gave chrysler bolts. The ones on the left are the arp bolts for a chrysler 727/904. I should have been more clear on that, my apologies. The bolts on the right are the torque converter bolts I got from Oriellys that are 7/16 torque converter bolts.
Waited all week for these... not much difference between arp chrysler 7/16 bolts and "parts store" bolts besides the overall length... maybe 1/8 in the thickness of the head... none the less got the "correct" arp torque converter bolts. Oh and some fancy type F for firmer shifts.
View attachment 1715908214
Nevermind.
That hardware store garbage isn’t half the bolt the ARP is. Not even close. Glad you stepped up to the ARP bolt.
What I want to do to my car right now...
It wouldn't be fun if it was easy!!!
The ones on the right are not "chrysler" bol
Well its a not just a hardware store bolt, its a bolt that is made for the flexplate... i agree the arp bolts are much more shiny though. My newly painted and bent cover plate matches them well.
Now if only I could get these damn bellhousing to engine bolts to freaking thread... I would have been done weeks ago. What I want to do to my car right now...
View attachment 1715908529
View attachment 1715908530
I know that.The ones on the right are not "chrysler