flipping front spring hanger to lower rear.

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I flipped the front leaf spring brackets on my '64 Signet by re-drilling the holes on the brackets (rather than drilling/filing the frame). By drilling small and filing the hole to size by hand I was able to actually press the bolts into their new location (see photos).

The 6-leaf SS springs were a fierce competitor but was able to flip them w/o unbolting he u-bolts. (Removing all the press-set bolts from the brackets may make for less prying to remove/replace the brackets.)

Attached are in-process and before/after shots.
Lowered 1.5" @ front of rear wheel well, 2" @ back o' wheel well, 3" at back bumper.

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So for those thatt have done this, have you seen your u joints or the pinion bearing wear out more frequently because you raise the pinion of the rear by moving the spings closer to the body up front? I had an old one I had changed pionon angles inadvertantly when i put some non stock springs on it, wore out u joints every 10k miles. Just curous of the long term impact of doing this...
 
yes. it seems that the pinion angle would change a bit. i'll watch it and get angle shims if needed, but wasn't up for messing w/ the U-bolts until I saw the result.

i'm just really please w/ the anti-rake results of this mod. i don't feel like a hessher driving this "Grandma" around town now. BIG thanks to all posters for the insight.

not sure why my photos didn't post above. take two here...

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You can also use a combination of spacers and flipping the mounts to get exactly what you want. Some SS springs have a ton of arc in them and need lots of lowering to get the proper stance wanted. My 65 Dart project needed the front spring eyes moved up the max possible when I moved the springs into the frame rails, and I still needed over two inch of spacer to get the back end down to where I wanted it. Part of the problem is the springs are 3400 lb units, and I should have bought 3,000 lb units.
 

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