Floaters/Ladder Bars on A body

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Dyno's finds leaks & other issues,such as if it's going to shift etc. so you don't wait till you get to the track to work on your car.Helps with fuel adjustments I.E. Lean/ rich, fuel delivery & mangement. I personally ignore HP/toqure levels, you are right they are just numbers. Every car I put on the dyno, I run all season without opening the hood, and go lots of rounds and win (well not this year).All I do is change oil & check plugs.I set my cars up as grunt cars, so I can go rounds and not work on them. I get many season's out of the engine/trans., and all I do is replace the valve retainers for safety, and clean everything else up with rings, valve job and gaskets. Last freshin' was he 1st time I even put rod bearings in it, and it didn't really need them.I shift @ 6200, the motor will go to 7500. I am not going after the number, just rounds. Been there done that!...LOL
This same combo was on the dyno here @ 4500 foot, I finished the season with tons of wins with it in my S/G Daytona, and took it south to your tracks, and ran it all Winter,as mentioned made it to the finals on a double break out in S/G. It ran mid to low 9's off the stop.Never touched a thing, never took the hood off except for tech. If I remmeber, you are @ like 1500' in that area.
But we could argue Dyno's all day, because lots of people will agree with you. But for me, it always works.And the group I hang with which win alot will agree with me.
Your car looks good, and yes, not to that extreme is what the car does.But them I am not running a cogger either.
I have heard of fuel stacking, I have no fuel delievery problems
Thanks for your input.

well i'll say again you suspension isn't gonna affect anything out of your 60ft unless the front end isn't coming down... sounds like other issues.

you dont open your hood so you have no idea what your motor is actually doing unless your loggin, and dyno's dont take into account real world forces like accel and cold air/intake pressure

good luck
 
"Never Opening the hood off", is a figure of speech...Meaning I don't have to mess with it, or work on it at the track.
I check stuff constantly.I have a lift, it goes on it every 3 races for inspection and oil chages.The point I was trying to make is, my cars are normally consistant, don't break, and I don't run them hard,because I really don't care how fast they are, as long as I qualify for the class I am running.
This all works for me so I paln to stick with it.The dyno's are free, because my friend owns the dyno shop, and he sponsors me.
As I said, we could go back and froth on this topic,many agree with you.
Peace brother, and happy Moparing
CW
 
I'M THE ONLY ONE THAT ANSWERED YOUR QUESTION AND YES THEY DO WORK AND EXTREMELY GOOD TOO. i finished in the top top ten 6 times and the worst was 6th and the rest was 4th and above so again they work as my hotrod was super consistent. even got 3rd at the division finals once and only because f^%**( nhra was hot lapping and wouldn't let me go to the pits to loosen my rear brakes. they were getting so hot the car would bearly move. i did get a .50 something light but the car wouldn't move and i was didn't want it to catch on fire so i gave the race away. dogs, that really killed my pay check.
 
"Never Opening the hood off", is a figure of speech...Meaning I don't have to mess with it, or work on it at the track.
I check stuff constantly.I have a lift, it goes on it every 3 races for inspection and oil chages.The point I was trying to make is, my cars are normally consistant, don't break, and I don't run them hard,because I really don't care how fast they are, as long as I qualify for the class I am running.
This all works for me so I paln to stick with it.The dyno's are free, because my friend owns the dyno shop, and he sponsors me.
As I said, we could go back and froth on this topic,many agree with you.
Peace brother, and happy Moparing
CW

thought of something else! did you check pinion angle against the tail shaft angle (not the ground)? also whats yous shackle angle, if the angle isn't enough they could go over center and unload
 
Thanks Bob, I knew they worked, Just wanted to hear from people running them.That is the kind of info I was looking for.
As long as you run good shocks, leafs/coils don't matter, as the springs only hold the car up. Another nice issue is the new floaters allow you to adjust ride higth.
Thanks man, As I mentioned, I don't want to do all the fabricating, and I may want to put it back on the street some day.
@moparkid
Pinion angle is correct, there is no shackel bind, I totally understand what you mean, that has been checked and double checked.There is also no other binding with all the shocks removed.Thanks for your thoughts man.
 
Thanks Bob, I knew they worked, Just wanted to hear from people running them.That is the kind of info I was looking for.
As long as you run good shocks, leafs/coils don't matter, as the springs only hold the car up. Another nice issue is the new floaters allow you to adjust ride higth.
Thanks man, As I mentioned, I don't want to do all the fabricating, and I may want to put it back on the street some day.
@moparkid
Pinion angle is correct, there is no shackel bind, I totally understand what you mean, that has been checked and double checked.There is also no other binding with all the shocks removed.Thanks for your thoughts man.

hmm... what kind of tires? drag radials?
 
another thing you might want to considered is using "formular V", that stuff flat out works to keep the bite consistent and the rubber always fresh. i used it the all time i bracket raced and still use it on the heads-up car. i highly recommend it.
 
Craig Smih the Top Fuel guy is the Leaser from Spokane co.and a personal friend. I was on a 5 person board with him this Winter to try and figure out how to make this track work..... He hired Chuck S. from Firebird to mange it this summer. He also has help fro Dale Hornsby. Maybe that clears it up.
Checvk out the websight for spokanecoracewat.com, and you will see who is in charge
 
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