Floppy remote rally (sport) mirror journey.

[Dubob]

View attachment 1714960871 View attachment 1714960872 View attachment 1714960873 So I noticed that when it gets warm the remote rally mirror for my Demon gets "floppy". I decided to see if I can fix it. This is just a start so be patient.

There is a screw up in the base of the mirror that releases the guts.
1st picture.

After removing the screw the attach assembly pulls out with the mirror. It's kind of self explanatory how it fits in the mirror housing. I used a small screw driver to release the cable housing, the base of the assembly is soft but I took care to not break it off. Notice the piece of spring steel that tensions the pivot.
2nd picture.

After releasing the cable housing I was able to work the tensioner out. Now to find something to shim with. Thought about building up with mig welder but that would temper it and lose the spring.
3rd picture.

View attachment 1714960870

 

[Dubob]

I don't know how this is going to work out but it can't hurt to try. Your seeing this as I do it so I don't know the outcome yet.

 

[72bluNblu]

Interested to see your approach! I have a couple of rallye mirrors on my Duster with the same issue. I tightened them as much as I thought was possible without doing damage when I installed them not that long ago and they were fine for a few months, but they're a little loose now.

 

[DFX 340 Duster]

Already this is informative. Wondering if you could coat the fingers with an epoxy and shape/sand to an appropriate thickness? Could purchase a liquid rubber that leaves a rubber coating when it dries on the fingers. Just some ideas.

 

[downsr]

The way you get the mirror to tighten up is loop your cable inside the door which makes the cable inside the housing tighter.Take your door panel off and hold the cable in a loop and reach your other hand up and try to move the mirror.

 

[Dubob]

Few more things. There is a post that rides in the center of the mirror backing plate, the cables are tensioned by the spring at the control knob. Also the cup on the three fingered piece of spring steel was riding very low in the cup on the mirror head. I did mark how far the cable housing was engaged in the piece I removed it from. My theory is that after 40 years the cables stretched relieving the tension from the spring in the control knob. I've got some ideas we will see. If I can get good pictures of the post and cup in the mirror head I will post them. Looping the cables may tension it more, but they're off the car and figured I have a look around.

 

[Dubob]

Ok, I went to the hardware store and found some stainless countersunk 3/8 finish washers. I had to expand the od of the outer cupped part to fit over the well of the pivot cup. I did this using sockets and stepping it up til it fit over the od of of the pivot cup. I then packed the washer with general purpose grease. Worked the three legged piece of spring steel back in place. Once all that was done I put the cable housing back in to the original position and worked the clamping feature back over it. This you have to be very careful with mine started to crack so I had to regroup a little. The cable housing is secure but just a heads up.

It did tighten it up a lot but the longevity is yet to be seen. I know that I can't move it out of position without quite a bit of pressure. Here's the pics, I will upload the video later.

 

[RedFish]

To form a loop in the cables does work in many cases. That's a very old school used car guy quick fix. So another trade secret is out. Probably was out there somewhere already though.
If you really want to take a cable remote mirror apart, notate the cable ( color keyed ) positions, start at the control wand and take it all apart. I do this when converting non remote right door mirrors into long cable remote mirrors. Pic below shows right mirror controller beside ignition switch in matching bezel.
The spiral cable sheathe is crimped/secured into pot metal at both ends. To expand and reform this pot metal does not work. It'll just break off. Instead, simply screw the sheathes out and back in again.

 

[Dubob]

Here's what I ended up with. There may be better or other ways but this is what I came up with.

 

[famous bob]

View attachment 1714960871 View attachment 1714960872 View attachment 1714960873 So I noticed that when it gets warm the remote rally mirror for my Demon gets "floppy". I decided to see if I can fix it. This is just a start so be patient.

There is a screw up in the base of the mirror that releases the guts.
1st picture.

After removing the screw the attach assembly pulls out with the mirror. It's kind of self explanatory how it fits in the mirror housing. I used a small screw driver to release the cable housing, the base of the assembly is soft but I took care to not break it off. Notice the piece of spring steel that tensions the pivot.
2nd picture.

After releasing the cable housing I was able to work the tensioner out. Now to find something to shim with. Thought about building up with mig welder but that would temper it and lose the spring.
3rd picture.

View attachment 1714960870

View attachment 1714960874

View attachment 1714960875

View attachment 1714960876

I bent the spring in a regular 68 barracuda mirror and tightened it up. it wasn`t rusted up tho.

 

[75slant6]

To form a loop in the cables does work in many cases. That's a very old school used car guy quick fix. So another trade secret is out. Probably was out there somewhere already though.
If you really want to take a cable remote mirror apart, notate the cable ( color keyed ) positions, start at the control wand and take it all apart. I do this when converting non remote right door mirrors into long cable remote mirrors. Pic below shows right mirror controller beside ignition switch in matching bezel.
The spiral cable sheathe is crimped/secured into pot metal at both ends. To expand and reform this pot metal does not work. It'll just break off. Instead, simply screw the sheathes out and back in again.

View attachment 1714961254

Nice! Do you do this mod for other people or just on your own stuff?

Your climate controls/stereo swap turned out nice as well! I hadn't seen a pic of the finished product.

 

[RedFish]

Nice! Do you do this mod for other people or just on your own stuff?

Your climate controls/stereo swap turned out nice as well! I hadn't seen a pic of the finished product.

I still build the DIN friendly rallye panel, [ LIGHTS ] [ WIPERS ] [ HAZARD ] are now backlighted too.
I never offered the mirror mod because of its price tag. Parts from 3 mirrors are required. 300 bucks for a mirror plus end user labor in cutting the holes req'd, kinda steep don't you think ?
Thanks for your complements though