fluid type for A-518

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then it must be the specific kit, all i know is it says transgo in a blue and white box and the part number came up to be for the chrysler A-518 transmission. and for the mod on the servo to eliminate overlap, cant i just ditch the accumulator spring under the valvle body? i was told by doing that it would bring a firmer 1 to 2 shift.
 
maybe i should just pull the valvle body out of the transmission and bring it along with the shift kit to a transmission shop and have them put it all together that way all i'll have to do is bolt the valvle body back on and be done.
 
and for the mod on the servo to eliminate overlap, cant i just ditch the accumulator spring under the valvle body? i was told by doing that it would bring a firmer 1 to 2 shift.

No. The shift overlap problem has nothing to do with the accumulator spring. In fact if you ditch the accumulator spring it'll make 1-2 shift overlap worse. The servo mod I am referring too is disassembling the rear servo and replacing the inner cushion spring with a spacer. When the servo is activated by pulling the shifter down in low gear the large outer spring is compressed. When you shift to 2nd it releases but as it's doing it the inner cushion spring extends prolonging the time it takes to fully release the rear band. When that happens it's in 1st gear and 2nd gear at the same time for a second or 2. Even though it's just a second or 2 it's very detrimental to parts being locked up at the same time like that. Plus it makes for a rough shift that actually slows you down. If you do the rear servo mod your fine doing the accumulator mod which does firm up the 1-2 shift but you can't just "ditch" the accumulator spring or the accumulator will be slamming back and forth each time it shifts in and out of 2nd gear and it'll break. You have to put a spacer under the accumulator to prevent it from moving. A spacer is nothing more than a piece of round rod 1/2" o.d. by 2-7/8~3" long. Even a piece of heavy wall steel tubing will work.

maybe i should just pull the valvle body out of the transmission and bring it along with the shift kit to a transmission shop and have them put it all together that way all i'll have to do is bolt the valvle body back on and be done.

If your going to go that far why don't you just take the complete trans. that way they can do the rear servo mod. and will have the tools to properly adjust the bands and torque things down. That is unless you have a inch lb. torque wrench. With the trans out of the vehicle it doesn't take long at all to install a kit. If you were close to me I'd do it for $50. My guess is a shop would probably charge $75-125 depending on their labor rate and the amount of time it took.
 
for those interested all of my racing transmissions were stock off the shelf parts except for the 5.0 lever, extra springs in 3rd clutch drum and a reverse manual valvebody. a buddy ran a 65 ply. 440 low 10s hi 9s 1/4 mi. 3600 lbs. would carry front wheels a ft high. he swears 700 passes. pulled one time for cracked converter hub. i repaired the pump and disassembled and cleaned the trans and didnt replace any parts. as for type-f fluid it is questionable with a lock-up converter i dont know for sure. kenny did travel the southeast and kept a spare with him but never used it. it is still in the floor in his garage
 
jughead, is it ok to run type f atf in a non lock up A-518? thats the transmission i have a non lock up torque converter A-518, and i am trying to figure out if it is ok to run type f in it, i know its ok to use in the 727s cause thats all my old man ran in the 727s, just wondering how type f works with the overdrive? this is the fluid that i want to run if i can.
 
jughead, is it ok to run type f atf in a non lock up A-518? thats the transmission i have a non lock up torque converter A-518, and i am trying to figure out if it is ok to run type f in it, i know its ok to use in the 727s cause thats all my old man ran in the 727s, just wondering how type f works with the overdrive? this is the fluid that i want to run if i can.
i have been running it in my 90 ctd with 518 that i installed in 99 with about 80 k on the trans with no problems. i have even run it in the gm ods with NO problems that i could blame on fluid.
 
................Sounds like u already have ur mind made up.....ur gonna put it in anyways.....theres a reason that ford went away from type f...........over time it deteriorates the seals.........kim...........
 
thats a myth about type f damagining seals, it even says it is in a mopar magazine, the august of 2000 edeition, i have a stack of mopar magazines thats taller then i am, and i was reading thru some of them and they accually encourage people to run type f in the 727 and it says dont worry about type f doing harm to any seals thats an old wise tale.
 
it says to take the accumulator spring out from under the valvle body, increase the line pressure to max, and run type f atf. and this was in the no bucks tranny hop ups article in the august 2000 mopar magazine.
 
It was the no-bucks way to do it in 1966 too. That doesn't mean techniques/fluid haven't improved since then.

Run Type-F if you want. Pretty much the only fluid that Mopar never recommended for use in the 727.

Crank the line pressure up as far at it goes, not like it takes hoesepower to run the pump.

Chuck the accumulator spring (heck there's lots of springs in there, you can't really need them all. They were put there by the MAN to keep you down).

If you want the transmission the thump, bang, chirp the tires, break motor mounts and generally shift like crap, do the old school stuff and buy a cheap B&M kit. If you want a more durable transmission that produces quick yet relatively smooth shifts, get a Trans-go kit, follow the instructions, and use a modern high performance synthetic fluid like ATF+4.
 
let me ask you this then, why did all automatic mopar cars that came with the 426 hemi or 440-6 pak automatically come from the factory without that accumulator spring if its a must have?
 
thats a myth about type f damagining seals, it even says it is in a mopar magazine, the august of 2000 edeition, i have a stack of mopar magazines thats taller then i am, and i was reading thru some of them and they accually encourage people to run type f in the 727 and it says dont worry about type f doing harm to any seals thats an old wise tale.

So what your saying is you'd rather believe what a journalist (some of which have very little, if any hands on mechanic experience) has to say over a mechanic with many yrs. of experience? Don't take it that I'm saying all magazine articles are bad, because obviously their not. In fact most are good. But I have ran accross a bunch of stuff in magazines I wouldn't do to an enemy's car. Just sayin :icon_smi:

Oh yeah: the saying is "it's an old wives tale", not wise tale. :icon_smi:
 
says right here in the article if you remove the valvle body there will be an accumulator spring under it unless you have a factory 426 hemi or 440-6 pak car they came factory without the spring, and it says discard this spring and you will get a firmer first to second gear shift.
 
so if that accumulator spring is a must have why did the cars putting out the most power come without it? lol obviously because it shifts better without it is my guess
 
i dont believe every article i read ether, but on the other hand i know mopar reads there magazines before they get sent out and if there was mis leading information in there im sure they would take it out.
 
im sure the last thing mopar magazine wants is to get the reputation that they have mis leading atricles.
 
The only person to proof read those articles is the magazine tech editor and if he's like 98% of the people in the world he does not know everything about everything so he has to take the word of his journalist. I'm sure no magazine wants to get a rep for putting out bad articles but it happens. In fact that happened recently to one such Mopar magazine. 2 issues later they had a complete write up about the mistakes.

BTW: did that article on the accumulator spring mention that you need to install a blocker rod to keep the accumulator from slamming back and forth?
 
no it didnt lol, none of that matters right now tho, im fighting the guy who re-built my transmission to fix it, there is something going on with the transmission and he is trying to blame it on everything else he can other then the transmission, and he told me tuesday that wednseday morning he himself would pull it up on a rack and take a look at it and here it is thursday night and i still have not heard from him.
I drove by there shop after work and they were already closed just to see if my truck was in the shop or not and its not its in the parking lot, its in a different spot from where i dropped it off, so i dont know if he fixed it or not? im going to call him tommaarow and find out what the scoop is.
 
just to give you a better understanding, back in august i though all i did was blow the front seal out of the transmission, so i asked around and was told this shop is the best in town, so i made an appointment for a front seal replacement and to get my overdrive wired to a switch.Well i bring the truck to them and leave it and the next day they call me and say sorry to bring bad news but this transmission is burnt up and needs to be re-built, and its going to cost 23 to 24 hundred bucks, but you will get all new parts including converter and a 2 year warranty, i need my truck.... so i said ok re-build it.
Three days later they were done with it and called me and i went and paid them 2389.00 bucks cash for the re-build, a day or two later im driving to work and everytime i go over any kind of bump i can feel something clunking and thumping against the floor boards, it took me awhile but i discovered it was the bottom transmission mounts, so i replaced the bottom transmission mounts and ever since i replaced them, the truck has had a terrible vibration while at a stand still and while driving and the transmission is also making a whineing noise.
So i bring it back to the transmission shop on monday, and he calls me back on tuesday and says the reason its vibrating is cause its not firing on all 8 cylinders wich i call bs its got brand new plugs plug wires cap and rotor and coil. I said ok what about the noise its making? he said its your rear axle, i said really? then how come when i put the transfer case in nuetral and put the transmission in drive i get the same exact noise? how could it be the rear axle when its at a stand still? he says really? well i have a few minutes ill go take a look at it and call you back, so he calls me back 20 minutes later and says ya there is deffanitly something going on with it, he says tommarrow ill pull it up on a rack and check it out, and ill call you and let you know what i find.....
Well here it is 2 days later and no call back from him... any advice on how to handle this guy and situation?
 
It just seems to me like he told his workers go check out that dodge and try to find other problems with it rather then transmission and maybe we can get him to pay us to fix them.
They gave me a 2 year warranty and i have it in writing on the recipt they gave me, so they have to fix it, im niot going to let them get away with sending me off when its running that way, when he called me back after i told him i thought they were wrong and that he should take a closer look, he calls back and says ya there is deffanatly something going on with it and whatever it is could burn up the transmission, and i said ya exactly thats what i brought it back to you, and he said well ill pull it on a rack tommarrow and ill call you and let you know what i find, but i think its your engine.
What could my engine possibly do to make the transmission growl and howl and whine and vibrate? it sounds to me like they messed up on installing it or didnt have it balalnced right or didnt have the torque converter clocked right or something, because whatever is going on with it im bout 99 percent sure it is coming from the aerea where the transmission meets the torque converter.
 
wont get into the argument of what are if someone did something wrong on a torgue-flite but will say if one cannot make a torgue flite live they are in the wrong business.
 
lol, transmission shop called me back today and said they had to send the torque converter back to the company that they get them from and order me another me one??? on my message he said they think its out of balance? ether way they were arguing with me about it for a few days untill i told them hey look i know its the transmission, so unless you guys wanna be re-building it again you might wanna take a harder look at it, and then 2 days later they call back and say im getting a new torque converter lol.
I just hope it didnt hurt anything else? it seemed like it was slipping a tad in overdrive and in 3rd gear at higher speed but other then that it still shifted fine and wasnt leaking any fluid anywhere? i have a descent sized cooler on it so hopefully that helped save it? i dont know im going to call them back and ask them if the fluid smelt burnt or if there was any particles in the filter cause im sure having the torque converter acting the way it was it probly brought some heat to the transmission.
 
so this has been solved aparently... i called the transmission shop back and talked to the guy who left me the voice mail and he said, we had to send the torque converter back to the place that we get them from and they are going to send us a new converter to put on your truck.
I said so what happened? he said the company thinks that the converter you had may have came un-balanced... whatever that means, anyways he said this coming tuesday they should have it done. so im going to ask them guys about running type f in that transmission, but since jug head and a few other people i know have used it without issues im thinking thats what i will run.
My old man swore by it in the 727s and i didnt know if having an overdrive would make it a different story for running type f but so far from what i have learned its not.
 
has anybody here ran the new dexronVI in the A-518 transmission? or heard of people running it? I dont know if its true or not, and am not saying it is, so ill just share with you guys what i was told by a canadian transmission builder.
This canadian transmission builder told me that he uses dexronVI in the A-518s and even the 47rh and 47re and 46re transmissions with lock up. According to him there is no better atf on the market right now, let me re-phrase that, according to him dexronVI is the best atf out off all the manufacture made transmission fluid.
He told me it has the best heat handling ability and that it flows the best when hot or cold and that it protects the best??? I myself have not heard of too many people running dexronVI but i guess there are a few people out there who swear by it in the 727s and A-500 and 518s and 47rhs an 46res????
 
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