Flywheel

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dustya_383

dustya_383

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HOW do I go about choosing a flywheel? my machinst needs the flywheel ill be running so he can balance everything. , my 4 speed isnt rebuilt yet and, dont have all the parts, z bar, clutch so on and so on, so how do i go about choosing a flywheel??? also im running the scat 9000 series crank, to hook the 833 to the motor correctly all i need is the pilot bushing/bearing right?? is there only one size bushing or do i need something specific, im completly unknowing ???? if that makes sense when it comes to the 4spd. . . . .what all do i need and where can i get it, so far i have


the trans itself( which is abody)
hurst 8inch straight shifter
and shifter rods
and what appears to be the pressure plate
where can i find the right lenth drive shaft to connect with my 8 3/4 rear.??



but more inportantly how do i choose a fly wheel, if u need to know itll be 410 stroker, 8 3/4 rear. 90% street car 10% track car
500+hp thank you
 
could get an alum. one from summit..they are light weight and will allow the rpms to rise faster...or you can just go automatic,but if your not racing it 4sped with the alum flywheel
 
You didn't say what engine you want the flywheel for and you seem to have a number of different engines so it's hard to tell which. But if it's not a 360, which uses and external balance flywheel, but a 318/340 you wont have any trouble finding a flywheel. Just need 130 tooth flywheel for 10.5 inch clutch. If it's the 383 big block you're talking about, not sure whether they are internal or external balance engine (internal I think). But in any event why dont you just ask your engine builder, after all he will be balancing the flywheel with the rotating assembly.

Aside from Summit and other suppliers, I've seen some decent deals on steel SFI approved flywheels (smallblock internal balance) on ebay. I bought my aluminium flywheel off ebay as a second hand piece, but it'd never been used only bolted up to the engine, so I got a really good deal there. Once you know what you're after have a look around.

Throw-out bearings are all the same for any particular engine. Which pilot bearing you need depends on the engine/crank and whether you are changing over from auto to manual because some crank ends used in auto cars where not fully machined to accept a pilot bearing.

Again, not enough info provided to be more specific.
 
I'd choose a stock one brand new if possible and it should be from the MP dealer unless I was racing seriously racing.
 
In response to sydcuda. . .not saying this in any rude way at all.but re read the original post. . .said I'm using scat 9000 crank also will be a 410 stroker (360) maybe previous questions about my 383 and my user name confused u.
 
dustya_383 said:
In response to sydcuda. . .not saying this in any rude way at all.but re read the original post. . .said I'm using scat 9000 crank also will be a 410 stroker (360) maybe previous questions about my 383 and my user name confused u.
Click to expand...

Yeh I see that now, 410 buried right at the end. Just trying to help, mate, and I did proceed on the basis it was a smallblock. As most stroker assemblies are internal balance then I suppose that's the flywheel you're going to be looking for. Good luck.
 
To balance your rotating assembly, you will also need the pressure plate. What kind to you have now? I definately would go with a good new clutch, like a centerforce.

Antoon
 
i got a hit on an internal balanced aluminum flywheel and was thinking about buying it. What do i need ?? internal and external balance and how do i know??when is it necessary for internal and for external?
 
You need to make sure the pilot hole in the crank is drilled to the correct size and that it is deep enough for your trans snout.

I would ask your engine builder about the balancing. The flywheel is zeroed on an internal balance and counter-weighted on external balance. Internal is better! It's what you want!~:-D

:dontknow:What flywheel?.....
http://www.ramclutches.com/Products/flywheels.htm
The flywheel is the foundation of the clutch system, and because it is an energy storage device, also determines the amount of power available to launch the car. A heavy flywheel stores more energy as it spins than a light flywheel. If your engine and gearing combination requires more power or inertia to make the car launch without bogging the motor, you will want a heavier flywheel. Keep in mind, though, that a heavier flywheel will be slower to accelerate through the gears. A lighter flywheel creates less inertia at launch, but will accelerate quicker through the gears. In order to effectively use a lighter flywheel, you must consider the car weight, operating RPM of the engine, and most importantly, the gearing. Too little gear will cause the engine to nose over or ‘bog’ on launch.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Drivetrain/Part-Type/Flywheels/Make/DODGE/?Ns=Rank|Asc
 
if you dont go with the aluminum flywheel you already found and want to keep cost down, id go with a 440 source billet steel flywheel. Its only 99 bucks, and id trust it any day over a stock peice, especialy if you plan on spinning the motor anything above 6k...i hope you got a blowproof for that stroker setup, its cheap insurance...good luck
 
dustya_383 said:
i got a hit on an internal balanced aluminum flywheel and was thinking about buying it. What do i need ?? internal and external balance and how do i know??when is it necessary for internal and for external?
Click to expand...

You need to ask your engine builder how he is balancing the rotating assembly, internal or external, that will tell you what you need to buy.

Personally I would pay the extra to have it internal balanced, that way when you have to replace anything that's bolted to the engine like the flywheel or the balancer you can just buy neutral balance parts , confirm they are neutral and replace .
 
I think 10.5 flywheels are the same from big or small block, so i'll go with the 440 Source one cuz it got the removable counter weight and it is cheap $99 bucks you cant beat that plus SFI aprooved billet unit!
 
mshred said:
if you dont go with the aluminum flywheel you already found and want to keep cost down, id go with a 440 source billet steel flywheel. Its only 99 bucks, and id trust it any day over a stock peice, especialy if you plan on spinning the motor anything above 6k...i hope you got a blowproof for that stroker setup, its cheap insurance...good luck
Click to expand...


Blowproof????
 
L
mopar340dave said:
You need to make sure the pilot hole in the crank is drilled to the correct size and that it is deep enough for your trans snout.

I would ask your engine builder about the balancing. The flywheel is zeroed on an internal balance and counter-weighted on external balance. Internal is better! It's what you want!~:-D

:dontknow:What flywheel?.....
http://www.ramclutches.com/Products/flywheels.htm
The flywheel is the foundation of the clutch system, and because it is an energy storage device, also determines the amount of power available to launch the car. A heavy flywheel stores more energy as it spins than a light flywheel. If your engine and gearing combination requires more power or inertia to make the car launch without bogging the motor, you will want a heavier flywheel. Keep in mind, though, that a heavier flywheel will be slower to accelerate through the gears. A lighter flywheel creates less inertia at launch, but will accelerate quicker through the gears. In order to effectively use a lighter flywheel, you must consider the car weight, operating RPM of the engine, and most importantly, the gearing. Too little gear will cause the engine to nose over or ‘bog’ on launch.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Drivetrain/Part-Type/Flywheels/Make/DODGE/?Ns=Rank|Asc
Click to expand...

I'm using the scat. 9000 series crank. . .do they come drilled??? They said it was.. .how can I tell??
 
the bell housing...so that if something goes wrong you wont lose your leg
 
dustya_383 said:
Blowproof????
Click to expand...

sorry, i should have said scattershield.. they are also referred to as blowproof bellhousings...if your building any kinda power and you plan on revving it and driving hard (not like your grandma) id step up to a billet steel wheel (or aluminum if the cash is there and the setup can benefit from it) and a scattershield...you dont want the exploded flywheel or clutch cutting your floor or your legs...cheap insurance imo...dont think id ever run any stick car without one, even a mild one...its not worth it imo
 
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