forged crank vs nodular crank block

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67belevdere/225

67belevdere/225

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just wondering if any body ha experience with cast vs the later newer blocks 76 and up
if I was going to have a spare and start building a engine . wish one you would chose
like parts wise , yes the forged crank is stronger , but the later nodular one is lighter
and easier to find bearings and parts. I rebuilt my engine it s great has plenty of power
just should I keep looking for a spare , I have the 67 block with a 73 crank with the bigger
end for later torque
 
It is not "easier to find" bearings or any other parts for the '76.5-up cast-crank Slant-6 than it is for the '76.5-down forged-crank engine.
 
In general, it looks like bearings are very slightly cheaper for the cast crank, but not enough to make much difference. I wouldn't worry about the year (as long as 1968 or newer), just the overall basic condition, of the spare engine.
 
J Glenn said:
Why '68 or newer?
Click to expand...
The pilot hole in the end of the crank got larger in 1968. You can use the late trans/converter as is, or the early trans/converter by using a inexpensive bushing. If using the early crank, you must use the early trans/converter, or an expensive custom converter to use the late trans.
 
I found that out the hard way and was lucky enough to find a later crank virgin and spun it down .010
right now I am fitting the wilco trans adapter and running a gm 700r4 with corvette HS lock up torque
2300 rmp
Charrlie_S said:
The pilot hole in the end of the crank got larger in 1968. You can use the late trans/converter as is, or the early trans/converter by using a inexpensive bushing. If using the early crank, you must use the early trans/converter, or an expensive custom converter to use the late trans.
Click to expand...
 
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