fouling plugs and idle issues?

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sharpie

workin' stiff
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After all this fun with a snapped rocker arm bolt and bent pushrod (loose rocker arm bolt, I think), I fixed the valvetrain and fired 'er up again. Sounds great, no issues mechanically with the motor (360 Magnum). The fuel, however, is a being a brat.

Some of you know that a couple weeks ago I had carb vacuum problems which left me stalled in the middle of the road, and resulted in a AAA tow and my swapping to an Edelbrock Performer carb for the time being. Since then, I have been having interesting idle issues. For the first few minutes after starting up cold, it would idle really rough and almost die. I would just hold it to 1000RPM until it warmed up, at which point it would idle fine (1000RPM in park or neutral, 850RPM in gear). By cold, we're still talking 85-90 degrees outside, but this happens if it hadn't been started up in a while.

So about a week ago, I got out my trusty vacuum gauge and tachometer, which had both been verified to be correct against another gauge, and set the idle at a basic level. I started from a baseline of 850RPM (in park) and leaned out the engine until I got the highest vacuum reading. This boosted my idle speed a bit, so I brought the idle speed screw down until I got back to 850RPM. I plugged the rest of the vacuum ports, plugged back in my vacuum advance, and she idled like a dream, even though the exhaust still had a gassy aroma to it. I drove it around a bit, then pulled a plug - carbon-fouled. Well, I decided to drive it around a little longer. I did a healthy 2000RPM all around town - maybe a 20 minute adventure - and came back. Still carbon-fouled plugs. No gasoline smell, no wetness, just carbon. This was Monday of last week, but since I had a lot of stuff to do (read: prepare for a vacation this past weekend), I let it sit until yesterday.

The idle issue wasn't a problem before, as when it would warm up, it'd idle just fine. That is, until yesterday. After the car warmed up, it still wouldn't idle. It sounded really rough, and strangely quiet from the tail-pipes. In park or neutral, it was averaging about 850RPM, but would spike 200 RPM or so either way. In gear, it would peak at 500RPM but always try to die unless I gave it gas. If I poked the throttle, nothing would happen. It actually seemed like there was no combustion for a revolution or two after I poked the throttle. However, if I eased on the throttle, I could get the RPM up again. I was thinking vacuum leak, but with the vacuum hovering at about 15hg, I kind of ruled that out. Was I wrong to?

A couple other symptoms I've encountered: I have a fuel filter inline between the fuel pump and the carb. I am getting a bunch of grit into it, and the filter's basically brand new. I need to do something to my tank, but is it possible to get the stuff out, or should I just buy a new tank?

Also, when it starts up cold, the fuel filter (which is clear) shows the fuel as very agitated coming up into the filter. It's almost like it's bubbling to the point of spraying through the filter element. It's not hot, as I'm able to feel the fuel filter itself, so I don't think it's boiling. But it's definitely drawing a LOT of air through. I know I have fuel in the tank (I just put 10 gallons in), so if it's drawing air, I don't know where it's coming from. I don't have the vapor separator line connected to the air cleaner or anywhere, but I don't have it plugged either, is that a problem?

Not sure what my issue is, but at this point, even with a really lean engine at 15hg of vacuum, it's still having idle issues and still fouling plugs. Any advice is appreciated. I'm almost ready to get out the checkbook and place an order for an Innovative LM-1 to REALLY tune this thing, but I'm thinking that this should/could be corrected in a much simpler and cheaper manner. Thanks in advance!
 
I'm guessing you have a few problems here:

1) Crud in the fuel. The filter still may not catch all of this and there may be crud in the carb too. I'd remove the gas tank and have it boiled out if possible, otherwise you'll want to find other methods of cleaning it.

2) Fuel Mix...first thing to check is to make sure the curb idle speed screw is as far out as possible to make it run the engine RPM you want. If its open too far, you'll be introducing fuel from the main metering system. So, you get the vacuum reading you want, drop the curb speed screw, see if you can adjust the mixture screws back to the same idle/vacuum you want.

Secondly, on that, you may be making the plugs sooty completely independent of the idle system. If the main metering system is too rich, it will do this. If you do a quick stab of the throttle, even in neutral/park, do the pipes wet themselves, hear a pop in the exhaust, or see black smoke? if so, the main metering system is rich and its time for tuning with Jets/Metering Rods/Power Valves depending on which carb you have.

3) the cold idle...you didn't say what type of choke you have...but you need to have a fast idle setup for this...My Holley 600 is electric choke and I have roughly a 1700rpm start-up idle, after about 10 sec, you can rev it, it will drop to 1200, and then once it gets warm, it will settle to its 800rpm curb idle. Since I had a similar problem, I would adjust the fast idle cam screw.

Frankly, we probably have similar combos...mine is:
'77 360 +.040 8:1 Pistons
Magnum Heads (8.5:1...roughly the same as a production 360 mag)
Summit 218/228 @.050 .441/.441 cam (~.470 lift with the 1.6 rockers)
Edelbrock Air Gap intake for magnum heads
Holley 600
1 5/8" shorty headers
Electronic distributor with 14 deg inital timing, 34 total (working on recurve).

Anyways, mine shoots a pretty good pop out the pipe when you dump the throttle after going to wide open, or when you pull a way from a light and make the 1-2 or 2-3 shift. So, I'm going from 64 to 62 jets and recurving the distributor to take care of it...although my plugs are not sooty or anything.

What plugs are you running? Mine are Autolite 3924's.
 

Don't overlook your ignition system. I was having major troubles, or so I thought, with my 6 pak. It would foul out the plugs, idle good one day and run like crap the next. Read somewhere that electronic ignition was real sensitive to grounding. Realized I didn't have a grounding strap. Bought one for 50 cents at the junkyard, and all of a sudden, the 6 pak ran great and cleaned up the plugs instantaneously.
Rod
 
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