Frame Connectors

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
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Looking into the future to get the MP P8684286 bolt in frame connectors,did some searching here on this mod,and would like to do this,this winter.I know most will say make your own way cheaper,but not willing to go to that kind of work,and no one around here me thinks with the skill to make them ,no ****.My thoughts is to bolt them in and weld them in the early summer.So some advice and who has the bolt ins and how were they to install.Thanks Happy New year.PS this is for my 69 dart 360.
 
i had the same idea as you. i paid the $189 for the mopar frame connectors. what a hunk of **** those things were. i sent them back and made my own for less than 50 bucks. the mopar ones fit like crap, are way under sized and a rip off. that is my thoughts. take it or leave it.
 
There are pics of CE connectors around here. Someone was making connectors on the site.

The MP ones are expensive and not the best quality.
 
I installed a set of Mopar bolt in sub frame connectors for the following reasons:
I don’t weld well enough to do a proper job although I have a cheap welder it’s not up to welding thick stock, and cut-off/ angle grinder.

Where I was living at the time, there were no handy steel supplies, new or scrap, to use in fabrication of these devices.

Hiring a welder to fabricate and install would have cost way more than the bolt in connectors.

I had a ½ inch drill, jack & stands, and time to cut torque boxes and Mopar bolt in connectors to fit, which now can be welded in place any time my skills allow me to. Remember the inner rocker panel is the structural member connecting the front and rear sub frame members as is the roof, the connectors are a supplement to the original design.

This summer I replaced the fuel line with a pre bent part, unbolting the sub frame connector to fish the line in place, and reinstalling it took only a few moments. When I get around to replacing patched floor pans, connectors not attached to floor sheet metal will make the job a lot easier.

I have to believe some mechanical engineer buried deep in some cubical filled Chrysler building made a few calculations to figure out what size and design of a sub frame connector was needed for most cars. Now if you are going to strap a huge Hemi in your car, and perform wheel stands at the drags all weekend all summer than maybe something a bit more stout is called for.

I would be more concerned of the integrity of the front cross member when installing connectors, than the size of the tubing used. If the cross member is paper thin from corroding inside out, the connector is not going to help much. It is important when welding, or bolting a thick gage member to a thin gage member a large gusset be used at that connection to spread or lessen the forces applied to the thin member so it does not deform from over loading form various forces including torque induced moments.
 
Mancini's are 135 bucks. Yes you can build them cheaper, but these are out of the box ready to go. A friend of mine built his own, and that wasnt just a piece of cake either, it was a "i cut it twice and its still too short" kind of deal. Welding them is actually easier then trying to drill and bolt them. Bolting usually results in just collapsing the frame rails from over tightening the bolts.
 
Bad Sport said:
I know this doesn't answer your question, but if you have a cut off wheel then I would make them. It's easier than you might think and WAY cheaper.

I made mine for less than 30 bucks.


Cut piece.
View attachment 1714576474

Welded a plate on the front end and then welded them into place.
View attachment 1714576475
Click to expand...

Sorry to get the OP's post off track...but Bad Sport, what diameter tubing is that you used? Mrs Claus bought me a MIG welder for Xmas and we plan on fabricating a simple set of connectors like yours.

Thnaks,
Pat
 
I have the US car tool subframe connector that weld to the bottom of the floor pan as well. It's a great setup and it doesn't go through the floor.
 
Divenut said:
Sorry to get the OP's post off track...but Bad Sport, what diameter tubing is that you used? Mrs Claus bought me a MIG welder for Xmas and we plan on fabricating a simple set of connectors like yours.

Thnaks,
Pat
Click to expand...

1 1/2 inch by 3 inch, 1/8 inch thick. Measure twice, cut once. It took me about 4 hours start to finish. You need a piece of flat bar to weld on the front end, then weld the flat bar to the frame.

Make real sure car is level before welding them in.
 
An important point Bad Sport, make sure the car is supported properly so all the gaps are correct and everything opens and closes right then go for it.
 
Snake said:
Looking into the future to get the MP P8684286 bolt in frame connectors,did some searching here on this mod,and would like to do this,this winter.I know most will say make your own way cheaper,but not willing to go to that kind of work,and no one around here me thinks with the skill to make them ,no ****.My thoughts is to bolt them in and weld them in the early summer.So some advice and who has the bolt ins and how were they to install.Thanks Happy New year.PS this is for my 69 dart 360.
Click to expand...

Damn Snake,
If you were closer I'd build you a set and help you put em in.
I have a 73 Swinger so the dimensions should be the same, and mine are .085 wall 2x3 laying flat.
 

Attachments

  • subframe.jpg
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We bought the sub frame connectors and torque boxes from US Car Tool, I saw them installed in a 70 Swinger and then we purchased them, they will be installed in our 69 Barracuda in the spring. The fit is good just need to weld them in.
 
Divenut said:
Sorry to get the OP's post off track...but Bad Sport, what diameter tubing is that you used? Mrs Claus bought me a MIG welder for Xmas and we plan on fabricating a simple set of connectors like yours.

Thnaks,
Pat
Click to expand...
I used 3X1.5 14G tubing. It didnt hit the floor, slipped over the rear subframe runner perfect and I used what was left as plates to spread the load on the front crossmember. I got mine for .99 a lb at a metal store's remnant barrel. It takes about 44 inches per side.
Anaheim-Santa%2520Ana-Garden%2520Grove-20121022-00544.jpg
 
wjajr said:
I installed a set of Mopar bolt in sub frame connectors for the following reasons:
I don’t weld well enough to do a proper job although I have a cheap welder it’s not up to welding thick stock, and cut-off/ angle grinder.

Where I was living at the time, there were no handy steel supplies, new or scrap, to use in fabrication of these devices.

Hiring a welder to fabricate and install would have cost way more than the bolt in connectors.

I had a ½ inch drill, jack & stands, and time to cut torque boxes and Mopar bolt in connectors to fit, which now can be welded in place any time my skills allow me to. Remember the inner rocker panel is the structural member connecting the front and rear sub frame members as is the roof, the connectors are a supplement to the original design.

This summer I replaced the fuel line with a pre bent part, unbolting the sub frame connector to fish the line in place, and reinstalling it took only a few moments. When I get around to replacing patched floor pans, connectors not attached to floor sheet metal will make the job a lot easier.

I have to believe some mechanical engineer buried deep in some cubical filled Chrysler building made a few calculations to figure out what size and design of a sub frame connector was needed for most cars. Now if you are going to strap a huge Hemi in your car, and perform wheel stands at the drags all weekend all summer than maybe something a bit more stout is called for.

I would be more concerned of the integrity of the front cross member when installing connectors, than the size of the tubing used. If the cross member is paper thin from corroding inside out, the connector is not going to help much. It is important when welding, or bolting a thick gage member to a thin gage member a large gusset be used at that connection to spread or lessen the forces applied to the thin member so it does not deform from over loading form various forces including torque induced moments.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input,this is a Califiorna car very solid.
 

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  • 100_1759.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 476
TrailBeast said:
Damn Snake,
If you were closer I'd build you a set and help you put em in.
I have a 73 Swinger so the dimensions should be the same, and mine are .085 wall 2x3 laying flat.
Click to expand...

Thankssssssssssss for the offer ya wish you were here.Pink Floyd.I have to admit guys you make it look easy.
 
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