Frame rail relocation VS Narrowing rails

[B.R.E.Demon]

I'm working on building a nostalgia Prostock Demon and following the pre-1973 rules, which require factory rails. However, there’s no restriction on modifying them, so I’m aiming to stay accurate while also getting insights from people who've done it before. I’m curious if anyone here has attempted this, and how they approached it.

The goal is to achieve an 18-20" frame rail-to-outer-quarter dimension to fit a 32.5x14.5 tire, with a section width of 18" on 14" wide rims. I’m debating between narrowing the existing rails or getting new ones from AMD and moving them inboard by 2.5". I’d then use inboard spring pockets with sliders on the rear. Since it’s a leaf spring ladder bar setup, it adds another layer of complexity. I’ve attached a couple of photos of the Butch Leal A/MP car as an example for reference.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

The guy I would ask is @HemiDenny

 

[abdywgn]

I can picture this but probably not accurately describe it. Cut the stock frame rail where the tire would interfere, the whole thing meaning the rail as if it was a new piece to be installed. Using, I'll guess, 2X3 tubing, move that piece of frame rail in to clear the tire. The rear part of the frame rail remains in factory location and so does the front part. "Outriggers" would have to be made for the shackle mounts and the front spring mount.
How about a "leaf-link" set-up?

 

[GTX JOHN]

I run 14/32 slicks with Calvert Springs and bars and
Mopar Boxes mounted into stock frame my old Prostock
Clone Duster.

Super EZ Deal and works great in a 8.5 or 9 Second clone.