Fresh engine, wiped cam? Tick? (new pics added)

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I just thought of something too... At preload, if I am coming up with 7.200" am I suppose to add another .025 to that for pushrod length??

Then not to get ahead of myself here... but when I install the pushrods, Do I do the install for the 7.2" length, and then install the proper pushrods, so when I tighten down the rocker shafts there would be a .025 preload?

If that is the case the 7.24 pushrods would work If i set them at a 7.215 height.

I think I may have to re-learn something here? :sign10:

Also, I noticed my spark plugs are black? I take it, it's been running to rich, huh? I never messed with the carb at all.
 
O.k... Here we go folks! It's been awhile, but here is the conclusion.

I pretty much took everybodys ideas, and kind of formed a conclusion with a lot of things. A lot of people had different ideas.

I did take off the heads, and what it turned out to be was exactly what I thought it was. One head WAS milled down .040 more then the other, basically to keep the CC's the same (and they were).
Someone had mentioned that they did not know why any shop would do that... Well... I don't know either, but they did. I guess they figured the CC's being the same was more important then push rod length. So basically on one head the pushrods were pushing so far in the lifters it was causing them to collapse.
I ended up going with new Manton pushrods, I called the guy and explained the situation and he was very helpful. One thing that I have read on this forum over and over is that the screw on the adjusters are only suppose to be 1 thread under the adjuster. Manton sad 2 threads for proper lubrication. So I needed up getting pushrods .020 even shorter then I figured. I can't remember the length exactly off the top of my head, but I think it was 7.1(something). Also, I did (obviously) end up going with adjustable rockers, and shimming one side .030. It only seemed to make sense that I'd go that direction of using adjustables.

I have a lot of people to thank on this forum for this, I have learned A LOT!
my friends are even saying to me "Holy Sh*t, Dude!" lol!

My car did ended up needing a new pick up coil as well. Don't ask me what that has to do with anything, but after I got all this put together the pick up coil of course had to take a dump on me... just one more thing for me to figure out. At least those parts were cheap. Basically though the car would shut down after 5 minutes, so these lifters never got a proper "15 minute" break in because of the car shutting down.

It does still need some fine tuning. I have to mess with the timing, and the carb. It stumbles a bit (mostly when cold). For the most part it is running pretty well. It's a quick car... a stroked 360, .060 over should be though. unfortunately It's still in the "break in period".

I'd like to thank the guy for sending me a extra rocker (For FREE!!) when I needed one, Moper, the guys from Kewaskum , and especially mopar340dave for putting up with all my insanity! :drinkers: and so many others who's name I can't remember right now! :prayer:


Thanks much!

Now it's time to play with my carb! :supz: :burnout:
 
I wouldn't mean that I'd just throw new lifters in with a bad cam. I just meant that if I found that it was just the lifters that were the problem, I'd just put in new lifters.

I'd not real keen on going back to the shop that did my engine, long story. They are pretty expensive.

As far as the "lash" I just have stock rockers, so I just tighten the whole bar at 20ft lbs.
I didn't realize there was a lash to be had. The shop that built it didn't check the lash either.

I hope to be pulling at least the valve cover today. I'll try to post pics.

Thanks guys!
. You've heard lots of good suggestions, so far. With rocker cover off, engine idling, place finger on top rocker, over each push rod. If problem is excessive clearance,lobe/lifter etc., you'll feel it. Cutting open the last-run oil filter, is a good way to "read", whats in the oil. Good Luck, ateam.:read2:
 
Try to do a compression test to check the cc's of the heads.
Just wondering if they cc'ed the heads correctly when they milled them down.
 
they did, thats why he ended up putting it back together and shimming one rocker shaft up. The adjustable rockers took care of the rest (if any) of the variance. The other option didn't add any performance, that being shorter pushrods on one side. He really needs to get his timing right.
I tried to explain it and posted a great article that goes in depth about the mopar electronic setup but I don't think he's got it right yet.

Myasylum, have you got some hard numbers on your timing?
 
Yea, it's about 10 degrees BTC at idle capped, and 35 degrees at 2500 RPM's TDC uncapped.
 
It seems to be running great, that I can tell. Does that timing seem appropriate? Or does that still seem off to you? The choke wasn't opening all the way either. That was part of the problem.

I'm going to have to go in and adjust the rockers though. A couple chatter at start up. It isn't bad, but a little noisier then I like. Part of me thinks I should leave well enough alone though.

I need an old set of valve covers to cut open, so I can adjust them though. I don't want oil all over.
 
I just put some rags at the edge of the head while I adjust. Not much oil flows from just rotating the engine over...unless you're spinning it with the starter.

That timing is about right, but you can always fine tune. That article I sent you is great info. Is your timing steady?
 
By steady, you mean jump around? It's pretty steady now.

While adjusting the rockers while running, do you just turn until it stops chattering, or do I add another half turn after the chattering stops?
 
ahhhh.....ya don't adjust it while its running. That's a chevy thing!

pop a valve cover...when the intake just opens, adjust the exhaust...when the exhaust closes, adjust the intake. 1/4 to 1/2 turn beyond contact. turn the engine using a socket and large ratchet. you can also use a jumper switch on the starter relay.
 
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