Fresh Rebuilt 318 Tick

[CudaRay]

Hey FABO!

I recently rebuilt my 318, used a Comp Cams 260AH-8 with new comp lifters and springs. After I got the mufflers on it, I noticed a slight ticking around cyl 8/6. With a stethoscope, I can hear some tapping/ticking above the valve cover on cylinder 8, but not below it. It does also increase in noise with RPM, which leads me to believe I have a failing lifter.

When installing, I did my best to make sure there were no ridges on the bores, and I had lube on the lobes and lifters, while also dunking the lifter in oil. I did not, however, realize I was supposed to pump them up with a pushrod before install.

The car has a slight miss or is just rocking a bit more than I'd expect at idle, despite seemingly running fine. I did have cyl 5/7 plug wires get burnt by the headers, but have since taped them up and added heat wrap.

My question is, what all should I be doing before buying a new set of lifters (and camshaft if the cam has started wiping)? I figure checking that pushrod and rocker arm would be an obvious start, but I'm still pretty new to this (first engine build) and just need some advice.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Using Comp stuff, the camshaft lobe is probably wiped too.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

If you didn't have the lifters machined by someone and you installed them out of the box, you realistically have almost zero chance of a successful break in.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you didn't have the lifters machined by someone and you installed them out of the box, you realistically have almost zero chance of a successful break in.

Yup. Very true.

 

[CudaRay]

If you didn't have the lifters machined by someone and you installed them out of the box, you realistically have almost zero chance of a successful break in.

These parts are circa 2020 or so, also bad QC then? So we're thinking buy another cam/lifters set? Any suggestions on brand when I do buy them?

 

[mbaird]

These parts are circa 2020 or so, also bad QC then? So we're thinking buy another cam/lifters set? Any suggestions on brand when I do buy them?

I’ve given up on flat tappets . Rollers only from here on out.

 

[RustyRatRod]

These parts are circa 2020 or so, also bad QC then? So we're thinking buy another cam/lifters set? Any suggestions on brand when I do buy them?

I would at LEAST do diagnosis. Without that, you never know. Might be something simple. Probably not, but might be. Yes, Comp has had issues ongoing for twenty years or more. If the cam has wiped lobes and lifters, the engine will need to come out and be gone back through.

 

[CudaRay]

I’ve given up on flat tappets . Rollers only from here on out.

Is that something that can drop into a non roller engine? With a new roller cam of course*

 

[CudaRay]

I would at LEAST do diagnosis. Without that, you never know. Might be something simple. Probably not, but might be. Yes, Comp has had issues ongoing for twenty years or more. If the cam has wiped lobes and lifters, the engine will need to come out and be gone back through.

Yeah I'm going to pull the valve covers tonight and take a look at the rocker/pushrods but if I don't find anything I'll pull the intake this weekend and figure it out from there.

I just want to avoid pulling that dang front cover if I can, but I'm expecting it anyway

 

[Illahe]

These parts are circa 2020 or so, also bad QC then? So we're thinking buy another cam/lifters set? Any suggestions on brand when I do buy them?

Howards Cams sells a quality hydraulic lifter. The last set of lifters I bought were Melling from Delta cams and he refaced them before they were sent out.

C%*# cams has been selling inferior quality parts for some time. The 260 H is a good camshaft for your application.

Pull the valve cover and the distributor, then have a buddy spin the oil pump with a priming tool while the questionable lifter is on the base circle and check that the lifter is pumping up,...or not! you'll know...Then you need to inspect the lobe. And cut open your oil filter.

You can get a bore scope from Harbor freight ($79) to look at the lobe, or pull the intake manifold.

 

[CudaRay]

Howards Cams sells a quality hydraulic lifter. The last set of lifters I bought were Melling from Delta cams and he refaced them before they were sent out.

C%*# cams has been selling inferior quality parts for some time. The 260 H is a good camshaft for your application.

Pull the valve cover and the distributor, then have a buddy spin the oil pump with a priming tool while the questionable lifter is on the base circle and check that the lifter is pumping up,...or not! you'll know...Then you need to inspect the lobe. And cut open your oil filter.

You can get a bore scope from Harbor freight ($79), or pull the intake manifold.

View attachment 1716492849

Awesome, I'll have to do that. I have a borescope, didn't think about doing that first instead of pulling the intake.

Oil filter media looked real good after cam break-in, I did use the Lucas SAE30 break-in oil for it.

 

[Illahe]

Awesome, I'll have to do that. I have a borescope, didn't think about doing that first instead of pulling the intake.

Oil filter media looked real good after cam break-in, I did use the Lucas SAE30 break-in oil for it.

You may have lucked out!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Howards Cams sells a quality hydraulic lifter. The last set of lifters I bought were Melling from Delta cams and he refaced them before they were sent out.

C%*# cams has been selling inferior quality parts for some time. The 260 H is a good camshaft for your application.

Pull the valve cover and the distributor, then have a buddy spin the oil pump with a priming tool while the questionable lifter is on the base circle and check that the lifter is pumping up,...or not! you'll know...Then you need to inspect the lobe. And cut open your oil filter.

You can get a bore scope from Harbor freight ($79) to look at the lobe, or pull the intake manifold.

View attachment 1716492849

I remember back in the late 80s a local big performance machine shop was having a lot of Comp cam failures. They blamed it on the zinc reduction in oil, but looking back, I think Comp was having problems back then.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Awesome, I'll have to do that. I have a borescope, didn't think about doing that first instead of pulling the intake.

Oil filter media looked real good after cam break-in, I did use the Lucas SAE30 break-in oil for it.

That's good. Hopefully it's something stupid.

 

[Illahe]

I remember back in the late 80s a local big performance machine shop was having a lot of Comp cam failures. They blamed it on the zinc reduction in oil, but looking back, I think Comp was having problems back then.

Quality of camshaft core, lack of consistent lobe taper and poor quality lifter material along with a blind QC tec. all add up!

 

[Bewy]

It might just be a sticking lifter, which can be removed & cleaned out. No need for new parts. I would check first before getting the shot gun out......

# 6 or 8 cyl? Warm up engine & THEN remove the valve cover. Lay down some rag to collect oil. Using gloves, engine idling, rest your finger on each rocker until you feel/notice a change. That is the faulty one.

 

[CudaRay]

It might just be a sticking lifter, which can be removed & cleaned out. No need for new parts. I would check first before getting the shot gun out......

# 6 or 8 cyl? Warm up engine & THEN remove the valve cover. Lay down some rag to collect oil. Using gloves, engine idling, rest your finger on each rocker until you feel/notice a change. That is the faulty one.

This is what I was just discussing with a friend, I'll get this done tomorrow and report back! Definitely cyl #8, tested with a stethoscope. Here's hoping.

 

[middleagecrisis]

To be certain, I’m no fan of comp cams either. However, they don’t have a 100% failure rate or they wouldn’t be selling them anymore. I have a couple of questions and an observation for you. 1. Did you spin the motor with the lifters marked to make sure that they were turning? 2. Did you do the proper break-in procedure by running the engine in the 2000-2500 RPM range for at least 20 minutes, and then change the oil afterwards. My observation that I wanted to point out is you are not supposed to pre-pump up the lifters before installing them, however, it’s always a great idea to pre-lube. The motor after everything is installed to make sure that oil has flowed to all of the mating surfaces before you fire it up as an alternate method, you can remove the coil wire and crank the engine over until you see oil pressure. However, you run the risk of removing breaking lube by doing that procedure. Please answer the two above questions to help us diagnose your problem.

 

[CudaRay]

To be certain, I’m no fan of comp cams either. However, they don’t have a 100% failure rate or they wouldn’t be selling them anymore. I have a couple of questions and an observation for you. 1. Did you spin the motor with the lifters marked to make sure that they were turning? 2. Did you do the proper break-in procedure by running the engine in the 2000-2500 RPM range for at least 20 minutes, and then change the oil afterwards. My observation that I wanted to point out is you are not supposed to pre-pump up the lifters before installing them, however, it’s always a great idea to pre-lube. The motor after everything is installed to make sure that oil has flowed to all of the mating surfaces before you fire it up as an alternate method, you can remove the coil wire and crank the engine over until you see oil pressure. However, you run the risk of removing breaking lube by doing that procedure. Please answer the two above questions to help us diagnose your problem.

I didn't mark the pushrods and verify they were spinning, but I do want to do that now before I dig any deeper.

I did lube the lifters/cam with cam lube, while also dunking the lifters in oil. I primed the engine, but did not turn it while priming to get oil to the rockers as I was worried about wiping off the lube. This ended up not mastering as it took a bit to fire up (bad accelerator pump I'm told).

Break in was done with Lucas break-in oil, varying from 2000-2800rpm for 20-25min, then changing to VR1 10w-30 afterwards. The filter was cut open afterward and we didn't notice anything abnormal, although I cant say if there was any tick present at the time due to open headers and bad exhaust leaks.

 

[middleagecrisis]

Sounds like you took care of everything that would normally be required. The way the cam bearings are installed in the block, the engine has to be rotated to ensure each lifter gets oiled. If you had a hard time starting it, and I’ve been there before, it probably got oiled to all the lifters before you got it fired. To be clear, to check lifter rotation I mark the lifter and block with a sharpie and then rotate the engine. I’ve never done this before recently, but with the number of failures occurring, I check everything I can think of. Checking this ensures the cam is ground with a slight angle to make the lifter rotate when it’s turning, and your lifter bores aren’t overly tight, preventing the lifter from turning. You can take that valve cover off and rotate the engine to TDC for that cylinder and check to see if you have any wiggle in the rocker arm. That will give you a pretty good indication if you’re starting to get a cam failure or a lifter issue.