Fried Blue Fld wire from Alternator

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unclepunchy said:
It's totally my bad here guys. I ordered this for a 69 instead of a 73. I had no idea about 1 and 2 fields/terminals but now I do with your help. I will order new brushes or just get a 73 alternator, they are not that expensive.
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Easy mistake to do. I suspected that when you said the engine was a 69 and did it make a difference for the alternator.

Thank you for owning your mistake. You learned a bunch in the last 24 hours. AND I know you will never make that mistake again.

Did you watch the Tech Videos?

they are corney as hell BUT very clear and easy to follow
 
Dana67Dart said:
what if the alt is a revised? we still have never seen the entire alternator?

in a nut shell what's the issue with that holder? (just curious and too lazy to look it up)
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Nothing wrong with the holder. It just answers what type of alternator that is. By design it should have a field current of what? 6-7 amps mimimum. That going through 18 gage wires that have been spliced onto 16 ga wires. That's not even including the electric choke assist. The main 16 ga wire has to carry those 7 amps for the field, plus the 3 or 4 amps for elctronic ignition plus whatever else was added to the run circuit that year. No thanks!

People wonder why there are voltage drop problems and failed terminal connections. Well here's one more cause on top of leaky windshild corners, age, and modifications.
 

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