Fried Bulkhead

[bcseydel]

This is a newer project for me. I have two black wires at the alternater (along with the field wires). One goes through the firewall and connects at the fuse box. The other (original) wire goes to the bulkhead. I traced it back and the wire looks good but, you guessed it, the bulkhead is fried at the firewall. Looks like a common problem based on some of the threads. I plan to uprade to 10 gauge wire.
1) Replace the bulkhead? pain
2) Drill a hole (3/16?) through bulkhead and run 10 gauge?
3) Run the wire similar to fusebox connection.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Craig

 

[Blue Grey Duster]

You may want to go to this site and read By-passing and eliminating factory amp gauges. It may or may not be your problem, but it might become one, and it shows how to repair fried wiring and why it happened. I'm about to eliminate my amp gauge wiring. A volt gauge is much better for your electrical system, our Mopar systems are handicapped in more ways than one.

While you're there, you might want to read about remote voltage- sensing and three wire alternators. A lot of reading, but I'm finally getting the big picture on how to upgrade this Mopar, before I add a radiator fan, fuel pump, etc., and a beefier alternator. From what I see, stock wiring, one wires, and external voltage regulators are not the way to go. I didn't mean to go on so, I just hope this site helps you. This stuff is new to me.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

 

[MadScientistMat]

I don't much like the idea of having one wire go straight through the firewall with no disconnect and the others on a bulkhead fitting like the other mad guys suggest. I'd rather either go with no bulkhead connector at all, or have connectors for everything. If I weren't redoing the entire wiring, I would probably use one of Summit's one wire bulkhead fittings:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/

That way you'll have a connection that fits even the craziest alternators, and you're still able to disconnect the harness at the firewall instead of having some wires that disconnect and some that don't.

My second choice would be to drill a hole in the firewall, add a grommet for protection, and put some sort of suitable high current connector on the ammeter wire so it could also be disconnected.

 

[BigSlim]

2nd choice is what I did. I followed Mad electrics instructions with the following modifications.

Business end to a 40 amp breaker and then to the black and red wires that used to connect to the amp meter. That way you don't have to bring both the red and black wires out of the firewall and end up having a clumsy connection at your fusible link.

The other end of the red and black wire connected inside the fire wall per Mads instructions