From slant to V-8

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340 Dart

340 Dart

I don't know ****.
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Do any of you guys know what parts will be necessary to change my 66 DartGT from its original Slant-six to a V-8?

I already have the Schumacher motor mounts, a V-8 radiator, and a B&M floor shifter. Is there anything else necessary for the change?
 
center drop link for your steeering to clear V8 oil pan, and possibly new front breaks if you have 9" drums. A V8 trans and a beefier rear end if you are going to run and big power.
 
Upgrade the torsion bars, and since you are going through everything else on the swap Id bite the bullet and convert the front brakes to discs right from the start.
 
right angle oil filter adapter, manifolds or headers? Best time to rebuild the front end. Throttle cable setup? Kickdown setup?
 
Hey,Dartwagon thanks for the chrome trim! looks good on the old Waggin,Thanks.Curtis

EX001201.JPG
 
340 Dart said:
Do any of you guys know what parts will be necessary to change my 66 DartGT from its original Slant-six to a V-8?

I already have the Schumacher motor mounts, a V-8 radiator, and a B&M floor shifter. Is there anything else necessary for the change?
Click to expand...


A 1966 might already have the drop down center link,
you will need a small block tranny of course.

You also need the 1964-66 273 exhaust manifold, for the drivers side.
I just sold my spare one. Look on Ebay.

Item number: 160291074520
 
cavemanmoron said:
A 1966 should already have the drop dpwn center link,
Click to expand...

My original 66 slant 6 Barracuda does NOT have the drop down centerlink. Similar discussion over at slant6.org and consensus was most slants did not have the V8 cneterlink.
 
nice wagon! I`m also converting to a 318 in my 66 dart. What are your plans for the exhaust manifolds, using headers?
Let us know how it is going, i`m starting with mine this winter.
 
cavemanmoron said:
A 1966 might already have the drop down center link,
you will need a small block tranny of course.

You also need the 1964-66 273 exhaust manifold, for the drivers side.
I just sold my spare one. Look on Ebay.

Item number: 160291074520
Click to expand...

as an option to the drop center link, there is enough room to raise the motor a little bit by shimming the motor mounts. it will give it just enough clearance to keep the oilpan off the steering link, works for me. i used two pieces of 3/8 steel bar and drilled and cut a slot into it so it would slide in under the motor mount around the bolts, didn't even have to unbolt them completely.
-Tim
 
one suggestion i have is to not use the tti headers. some guys love them in the early A-bodies but alot end up hating them. i have them right now but i wish i had just gotten some spitfires or if your just putting in a real mild 318 or 273 stick with the stock manifolds. also if your going to run dual exhaust you will have to modify the trans. crossmember to clear the pipe for the pass. side. i would also upgrade your brakes for sure. with a v8 even stock its a lot more power and if you don't have the extra "whoa" to match all that "go" you might end up with a new stain on your seat!
 
Ok, now we are getting somewhere. This will be a street/mostly strip 340 powered bracket car for my wife. The goal is deep 11's with room to grow.8)

So far I need:

The dropdown center link.
Throttle cable set up.
Right angle oil filter adapter or oil filter relocation kit.

I have the trannie already.
The brakes will be disc.:-D
Kickdown won't be necessary, it will be a Manual Valve body.
I already have an 8 3/4 for it.
The front end will be rebuilt.
Tortion bars are staying slant.
The car will eventually be caged and minitubbed.

I actually like the look of the fenderwell headers. Where can I get some?

I don't know what I will do with the exhaust yet. If I have routing problems, I will just run them in front of the rear tire. Maybe side pipes would be an option, I need to finds some pics of some on a 66.

I am actually putting a 318 in the car (for now) to play with and so I can move the car under it's own power. Next year when the car is done, (tubbed, caged, etc.) I will pull the 340 out of my duster, freshen it, maybe some new heads and a bigger cam and let her run with it.

Then I can worry about stroking a 360 for my Duster.:toothy10:

Thanks you for your help so far. I can't believe I only need the 3 things to make it work. Is that everything?
 
A set of subframe connectors may be a good idea. Other than that I think you got it. Sounds like it will be a fun car. Good luck!
 
gauges...driveshaft, brake lines, ss springs, adjustable pinion snubber...hoses, alternator, engine wiring harness, p/s pump/pulley, belts, motor machine work? carb, heads, the list goes on man, im just about finished with my /6 to 340 in my 69 valiant. you'll have more work than i did because you have a 66. dont wanna discourage you, but when you get elbow deep in this thing, without motivation, it could be hard for somebody. if you want 11's and power, a stock 318 will do nothing for you...
 
About the front disc brakes, there is a company called Scarebird that sells conversion brackets while keeping your stock 9" spindles. Not sure how these will handle with the street/strip setup. The bracket is about $100 and you use newer car factory components you can buy at any parts store. Either this or you can buy factory discs for your Dart, dunno if this may be hard to get. I think you'll have to modify the driveshaft for this conversion as well. Rear springs too?
 
if swapping from a 7.25 to 8.75 rear end then the driveshaft WILL need to be shortened a bit.
oh yeah, if you have the old trunion-type driveshaft it will not work with a newer trans. You will have to source a different driveshaft that has enough length to be cut down. I found one on ebay from a '70 coronet for arond $50, did the job perfectly. In fact, it was a direct bolt-in swap to the old 7.25 (only 1/4" shorter then what i measured for), just had to shorten it to fit the 8.75 i put in.
-tim
 
camd64 said:
one suggestion i have is to not use the tti headers. some guys love them in the early A-bodies but alot end up hating them.

i have them right now but i wish i had just gotten some spitfires or if your just putting in a real mild 318 or 273 stick with the stock manifolds.

also if your going to run dual exhaust you will have to modify the trans. crossmember to clear the pipe for the pass. side.

i would also upgrade your brakes for sure. with a v8 even stock its a lot more power and if you don't have the extra "whoa" to match all that "go" you might end up with a new stain on your seat!
Click to expand...

I have dual exhaust, using the stock 273 exhaust manifolds;
and my tranny crossmember is NOT modified.8)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU
 
for fender wells headmen.no more hookers. for engine bay type dougs,or tti..........i run dougs the fit like a glove...........you can get all them threw summit....good luck
 
I had to fab my own throttle linkage using a cable from a 73-76 a body v-8 car as well as the pedal from the donor car. Dougs headers are not fenderwells but they fit well and work well. tti has an x pipe system in either 2-1/2 or 3" that works well also. I used a aluminum radiator from summit that was a universal fit for mopar application and hoses from a gates illustrated catalog. Consider the schumacher torque strap kit since the stock rubber mounts will not take much abuse.
 
cavemanmoron, do you have it were the pipes merge into one then back out to two pipes or do you have a true dual exhaust?
 
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