My technique is a s follows..
We'll assume both of your lower ball joints are identical. Measure from the bottom of the lower ball joint to the floor, and the bottom of the torsion bar socket. Obviously the LBJ numbers should be the same, so you adjust the torsion bar preload to equalize the height of the torsion bar sockets. Make sure you jounce the car at ALL FOUR corners before you start, and after each adjustment. I would probably raise the low side, unless the car is really nose high. Keep in mind these cars typically sat a little higher when new than most of us set them now, mostly because the leaf springs have settled, but also because they look better a bit lower with modern aspect ratio tires.
Once you get the ride where you want it, you'll want to do a couple more things. First look at the LCA bumper stop. There should be some space between it and the unibody. The "point" can be trimmed off the top of the bumper, you'll lose some of the "progressive" nature of the bumper but it's no big deal. More important is to make sure it's the same side-to-side, and that you have enough clearance to keep from bottoming in a corner (which is BAD). Second is to measure between the floor and the inner and outer tie rod ends. Again, this should be the same side-to-side to minimize bump-steer, or at least make it the same right or left. To really dial out the bump steer, the actual angle torsion bar center to LBJ pivot center should be the same as the angle between the pivot centers of the TRE's. This is getting pretty advanced, and the Mopar Performance Chassis Manual does a really good job of explaining the whole process of dialing in the suspension and steering.
Biggest thing to remember is EVERYTHING the same side-to-side. Set the ride height to where you want it, THEN have the camber, caster and toe set at the alignment shop.
