Front Frame Rail Rot

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ElephantKiller

ElephantKiller

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I was removing the K-member of the Duster this evening. I discovered that the top of the frame rail between the upper A arm mounts was rotted out. I have an idea of what I need to do, but I'm looking for some advice. My idea is to cut pieces of steel and patch the rotted sections. Will this work, or do I need to be looking for a new frame rail? Here are some pics.

Thanks,
Aaron

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Paddock and year one and there are a few other if you investigate for new replacement or actualy I have a set of used ones that were cut off at firewall with the rad support Illlet go for a hundred and shipping
 
Uggh :( That bad on both sides ?
Getting that solid and correct enough to support and align the front end wont be easy. Alterkation K-member will allow you to remove all that factory stuff and scab/box the frame rail .
 
Most of the ones I have seen are the cap type of repair that go over the existing rusted out frame rail. I have not seen one that goes over the top an boxes the frame rail in. Would cutting below the brackets for the control arm eccentric and welding in a piece of steel cause any alignment issues?

72demon: Are you speaking of the shock support tower or the whole frame rail? Thanks for the reply.
 
Redfish: I haven't gotten as close a look on the otherside as I have yet to remove the upper from the right-hand side. But, from what I see it appears solid. I would love to put an Alterkation in, but I'm a little stretched with a baby on the way and all. Thanks for the reply.
 
I got into the garage this weekend and repaired the section that I showed earlier. This is what I did. I cut out the offending sections to good metal. I then made patch panels for the top of the frame and for the sections below the upper control arm mounts. Painted the inside of the frame rail with weld through primer and welded the sections in. I hope this will not give me headaches in the future. What do you guys think?

Also, please give me an idea what I need to do with my welder. It doesn't seem to be sinking the weld like I would like to see. It's a Hobart 140, CO2/Argon mix, and 0.030 wire.

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It looks fixed. You come closer to keeping a square car and alignment that way too. Time and pot holes will tell.
Wire feed welders, or any for that matter, take practice. We all tend to run the heat and wire feed rate too high. Its best to start at minimums.
The goal is to move slow and really melt/wash/nit to pieces rather than pile up material like so much chewing gum.
I"m not suggesting your welds aren't strong enough or I could do better.
Carry on and happy moparing. :)
 
Your welder should have a chart that shows what settings you should be using given the thickness of the metal. With the smaller welders sometimes you need to use flux core for the thicker metals although I don't think that metal is that thick.

I'd grind the welds smooth but not completely down because that will make the metal thin. Then if you see holes touch it up. Looks like a pretty good repair to me.
 
It Looks To Me That You Need To Slow Your Wire Speed Down. Or Increase Your Voltage. The Weld Probobaly Penetrated. But To Acheive The Look You Want You Need A Little More Heat Or Less Wire.
 
The repairs look good. Clean and coat it all with some good rust encapsulating paint like Rust Encapsulator, Por-15, Master Series Silver or whatever you like. Down the road if the area becomes a problem, you might have to replace the whole frame rail but not if that holds up and it's a daily driver...it's good I think, just my 2 cents.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think your right about the wire speed. It may have been a little high. I'm hoping this takes care of the problem. Thanks again.

Aaron
 
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