Front pinion bearing fit

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Map63Vette

Map63Vette

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So before I screw up my new bearing and gear set, I have a question regarding the front pinion bearing. I got out my old set of bearings that I ground down so I could slip fit to check pinion depth, and I had a hard time getting them to fit on my new pinion. I know the inner bearing is a press fit, but I thought the outer bearing was supposed to be more like a slip fit. I mic'd my brand new bearing and the pinion stem and the stem is around 1.311 inches while the bearing is only 1.308. Do I need to take some emery cloth to my pinion or something or is it supposed to be that tight of a fit?
 
I've built several 8 1/4 and 8 3/4,danas,etc and have run across that before, Some would slip others were to tight. In the past I have polished the pinion shaft where the smaller bearing rides to make it easier to set up. This is how I do it.
 
Yeah, on my old pinion that surface is just starting to pit some, so the bearing fits on pretty easy. I figured I should at least be able to get it started by hand, but I can't even get it that far on the new one. Looks like I'll just have to get out some emery and ease it up just a little.
 
Just out of curiousity, how are you supposed to press on the outer bearing while installing the pinion? Seems like you'd have a hard time setting preload and it would be one unwieldy monster to try to hold the housing while pressing on the outer bearing. You wouldn't even need the pinion nut to check for preload at that point.
 
Put the pinion in the freezer and/or your bearing in the oven for a few minutes.

Hog out the old front bearing, if you have one, so it slides on easily and use that for setting pinion depth. All it's there for is to center up the pinion.
 
Don't use a OLD worn bearing for a new set up, buy a new bearing make it the set up bearing....

I never have a problem pushing the bearing on, then pulling it in with the yoke and nut. I made a special tool to remove them.
They are like that on all pins
 
Supershafts said:
Don't use a OLD worn bearing for a new set up, buy a new bearing make it the set up bearing....

I never have a problem pushing the bearing on, then pulling it in with the yoke and nut. I made a special tool to remove them.
They are like that on all pins
Click to expand...

Yes, but, the front pinion bearing does nothing except center it up when setting pinion depth. It's an option if someone was concerned about pressing the newer bearing on and off the front snout.

Yes, I never use an old big end bearing to set pinion depth.
 
Supershafts said:
The front bearing is responsible for preload.
Using a worn bearing for that is going to change things.
Click to expand...

Did you READ what I wrote... USE IT TO CENTER UP THE PINION FOR SETTING PINION DEPTH....

Nowhere did I say preload, which I agree I would never use a old bearing to set that spec.
 
What? Why would you install an old bearing if you are going through replacing the races/bearings with new... HUH??? Hog it out and reuse it? Didn't realize hand holding was taken to that level. I said to set it up for pinion depth.... NOTHING MORE.

It's a set up tool, nothing more. Ever seen a guy try to set up pinion depth with the pinion cockeyed? I have and it was fun to watch. My suggestion is nothing more than a cheap and easy way to basically idiot proof the situation. Makes sure the pinion is centered up in the bore at the front side. Slide it on, secure it with a spring clamp, no flopping at the front of the bore.

Carry on.
 
crackedback said:
What? Why would you install an old bearing if you are going through replacing the races/bearings with new... HUH??? Hog it out and reuse it? Didn't realize hand holding was taken to that level. I said to set it up for pinion depth.... NOTHING MORE.

It's a set up tool, nothing more. Ever seen a guy try to set up pinion depth with the pinion cockeyed? I have and it was fun to watch. My suggestion is nothing more than a cheap and easy way to basically idiot proof the situation. Makes sure the pinion is centered up in the bore at the front side. Slide it on, secure it with a spring clamp, no flopping at the front of the bore.

Carry on.
Click to expand...

You and I are on the same page here. I think for whatever reason Supershafts is trying to belittle us or suggest he is the guru of diff setting up. And all others are wrong! I've set up (and this is a guess) 100 or so rears so "this ain't my first rodeo."
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
You and I are on the same page here. I think for whatever reason Supershafts is trying to belittle us or suggest he is the guru of diff setting up. And all others are wrong! I've set up (and this is a guess) 100 or so rears so "this ain't my first rodeo."
Click to expand...

He made an assumption here that was incorrect about the way I suggested to do things.

You'd have to be one of the duller knives, or dullest, in the drawer to use a hogged out, old, used front pinion bearing when putting together a fresh rear. Buy all fresh bearings/races and leave a couple out and reuse the old ones, genius! What do I know, maybe that occurs.

Some Dana manuals suggest setting up preload and depth at the same time. I choose to not do it that way.
 
crackedback said:
He made an assumption here that was incorrect about the way I suggested to do things.

You'd have to be one of the duller knives, or dullest, in the drawer to use a hogged out, old, used front pinion bearing when putting together a fresh rear. Buy all fresh bearings/races and leave a couple out and reuse the old ones, genius! What do I know, maybe that occurs.

Some Dana manuals suggest setting up preload and depth at the same time. I choose to not do it that way.
Click to expand...


No assumption, i have hired people from other shops that do EXACTLY that....
I can tell you one of the shops is in Bklyn and another in NC, you would be surprised at the nonsense in this indusrty.
 
You have a reading comprehension issue and maybe could use a dictionary. Go read the thread and see WHO started the preload issue... it was you! That single statement and the follow up shown below required an ASSumption. If you can't follow what an ASSumption is play along
___________________________________________________________________
Supershafts said:
The front bearing is responsible for preload.
Using a worn bearing for that is going to change things.
Click to expand...


crackedback said:
Did you READ what I wrote... USE IT TO CENTER UP THE PINION FOR SETTING PINION DEPTH....

Nowhere did I say preload, which I agree I would never use a old bearing to set that spec.
Click to expand...

Supershafts said:
lol You didn't say you didn't use it to either...
Click to expand...
_______________________________________________________________________

Last statement PROVES my point. If I didn't say I used it for setting preload you made an ASSumption... get it!

I Clearly stated it was for setting depth and reiterated it as ONLY pinion depth, multiple times, yet you won't let go.

I don't give two rats behinds what some idiots from the east coast NYC area do. They do that they're stupid. I guess that could be construed as an indictment of you for hiring those idiots... :)

Have at it.
 
Ok since the ability to have any foresight and use your head is so lacking here, i'll explain since you want to carry on like a girl reading into things.

You said you set the pinion depth with the old bearing and didn't state not to use it to set the preload, you MR. all knowing has said this in a thread with people that are not all knowing as you and will make the mistake and use OLD bearings for set up...

You are putting **** in a thread with no real explanation....


So lets start at the beginning ....

Hog out the old front bearing, if you have one, so it slides on easily and use that for setting pinion depth. All it's there for is to center up the pinion.
Click to expand...

That is SO MISLEADING to someone that probably should never be touching a diff....

Don't use a OLD worn bearing for a new set up, buy a new bearing make it the set up bearing....
Click to expand...

Then the 2nd time you were using your head being somewhat more CLEAR

Yes, but, the front pinion bearing does nothing except center it up when setting pinion depth. It's an option if someone was concerned about pressing the newer bearing on and off the front snout.

Yes, I never use an old big end bearing to set pinion depth.
Click to expand...

Then for those that don't understand diffs i explained what the front pin bearing does since to someone that has no clue will only believe that is simply holds the pin centered..

Then i added this comment for the front pin bearings responsibility and why you wouldn't use that bearing any further.
Which if all you're worried about is pin depth you wouldn't want to waste time with either old or new bearing

The front bearing is responsible for preload.
Using a worn bearing for that is going to change things.
Click to expand...


Then as i see it, there is no quote to you, im not speaking to you and as i said earlier......

then you went on some more..... and i laughed out loud,
lol You didn't say you didn't use it to either
Click to expand...
finding it funny you had seen this as your problem

Then sgbarracuda so desperately needed to read into something that isn't and added further nonsense,
You and I are on the same page here. I think for whatever reason Supershafts is trying to belittle us or suggest he is the guru of diff setting up. And all others are wrong! I've set up (and this is a guess) 100 or so rears so "this ain't my first rodeo."
Click to expand...

where i then said

No both of you are making that theory up all on your own...
Click to expand...

Im glad the 2 diff guys are clear of the problems that make headaces for the rest of the people from lack of being clear and specific of what to do and why...

Yes hand holding is needed on the internet

Glad to make your point that you ignored, and glad to see what you're really like..

I corrected them for their mistakes as now you might see the same....

lol have at it
 
Okay, new question. If I want to heat up the new front bearing to make it a little easier to install, how high can I take it in an oven? I have a little toaster oven instead of my mom's big main over, but about the lowest it will go is maybe in the 200 range. I can always try to pull it out before it gets too hot, but I figured I'd just toss it in when I started working on other stuff and take it out when I was ready for the final setup. Then, if the preload is off it might not be so hard to try to get it back off since it will still be a little toasty. Come to think of it though, will the heat throw off the preload reading significantly?
 
There's a reason I call Cass, Dr. Diff, when I have a technical question and not the rear end guy on the this board. It's because he doesn't do the junk that's occurred in this thread. I agree with Roy on this, supershafts, you like to run people down and look from his ivory tower. The two of us aren't the only ones that noticed the tone.

Also, if the preload issue wasn't directed at me in your response, you could have said so after the first reply to it. Did you? I've made comments in here and others took it as directed at them, when it wasn't. I posted right to them that the comment was not directed towards them. Pretty simple and it avoids pot stirring which is what this became.

This all could have ended early on and I apologize to the OP for the off track stuff. If the OP understood what I was writing about, great, if not, ask for clarification. Pretty simple. I'll assume he understood because he certainly didn't ask. I only suggest things that have worked for me when working on this stuff.

For the OP, throw it in the oven at about 250-300 or so for 10 minutes, see how it slides on. Get welding gloves or use a pair of pliers to pick it up.

Good luck with it.
 
crackedback said:
There's a reason I call Cass, Dr. Diff, when I have a technical question and not the rear end guy on the this board. It's because he doesn't do the junk that's occurred in this thread. I agree with Roy on this, supershafts, you like to run people down and look from his ivory tower. The two of us aren't the only ones that noticed the tone.

.
Click to expand...

Yet again that is all YOU reading into something that is simply not there...

I will use exclamations!!! and many other forms of writing to get across THAT I AM trying to get across to you crackedback, but i haven't YELLED at you, called you a jerk off, or picked out anything about you in ANY!! thread ever...

This is the problem people have with reading something, YOU!!! add the emotion and YOU! add the "junk" that clearly wasn't there.

If i want to run you down as you say, there will clearly be no mistaken that i ran YOU down.
 
Map63 take the pin nut and a tube and use that to pull it on, hold the pin at the gear and find a piece of tube that fits over the pin and within the seal, then put the washer over it to pull it on enough to put the end yoke on, and then set your pre-load.
 
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